1911 series 80 to 70 conversion?

Mark-II

Mark-II

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I'm curious as to whether anyone has tried something like the TJS Custom frame shims that allow one to remove the series 80 safety system from a 1911, what the results were, and where in Canada you can find that or similar products, since brownells can't ship an innocent piece of steel plate to Canada?


Here's a link

h ttp://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/fillers/tj-s-1911-series-80-to-series-70-conversion-shims-prod13121.aspx
 
I installed a couple of them... and there is nothing preventing you from milling your own.. about an hour in the shop and you should have it fit..
 
Only thing preventing me is a lack of machinist skills! Lol

I checked with a local smith in the meantime and he has them.

I always get caught up trying to find stuff online and forget about local channels...
 
The REAL question is ... How many experienced 1911 shooters still have a functioning Series 80 "safety" system left in their gun? There's not even a need for the replacement plate - just file off the "lever end" of the "firing pin plunger lever" -use that as the "shim" and "forget to re-install" all the other parts of that system. The series 80 system was created in response to the "what if paranoia" : what would happen if the gun was dropped and the two other systems failed and the gun discharged ... OMG!!!

How many "safety systems" does a handgun really need considering the 1911 already has DOUBLE the number a Glock has? AND I won't even comment on the Glock "safety system"...
 
I think the emphasis must be on "good"

The pistols that are not as finely finished don't seem to have terribly nice triggers

And I'm pretty far from being a trigger snob
 
Last time I tried to order that TJS shim from Brownells, I was told it couldn't be exported out of the USA as the manufacturer isn't on the ITAR list.

When I got my first 1911, it was a series 80. Then I kept reading from all the 1911 purist saying that the Series 80 extra safety parts make the trigger feel horrible blah blah blah and I started doubting my purchase big time. Then I eventually got a series 70 1911 and if I did a blindfold test between my 80 and 70 series, I couldn't honestly tell you which was which. Both break at a crisp 4lb. One isn't grittier than the other despite what all the series 70 advocates say.

If you do decide to remove the series 80 parts and use a shim, you'll also have to remove the plunger assembly for the firing pin on the slide leaving that gaping hole to collect debris.

Personally, I see no reason to bother trying to convert a series 80 to a 70. If you do want a series 70 gun, sell the current one and buy a factory series 70 one instead.

That's just my 2 cents...
 
Mark-II said:
I think the emphasis must be on "good"

The pistols that are not as finely finished don't seem to have terribly nice triggers

And I'm pretty far from being a trigger snob
Click to expand...
Personally I'd just clean up the parts if necessary and go with that.

If it's a series 80 I'm assuming it's a Colt and if it's a recent Colt it's probably as good as it's going to get without expert intervention...

If it's a series 80 and it's not a Colt...all bets are off and I'd probably sell it rather than mess with it.
 
Not discounting your personal experience, Trinimon, but I very much could pass the blind taste test between the two in my limited exposure to both systems. I just want the option to disable it reversibly in order to see for myself. I don't belong to one camp or the other.

Anyway, I've been pointed to and have gotten the part in question, so all is well :)


(Not a colt, btw)
 
Are you guys aware that eliminating a factory installed safety from any gun is a NO NO?

The plate (shim) you're talking about is for fitting a series 70 slide to a series 80 frame, and not for converting series 80 guns to series 70. Of course, you can do it in a privacy of your garage or basement and everything will be fine until (heaven forbid) some accident heppens, not necessarily related to this conversion. In this case I wouldn't like to be in your shoes.

This is why no licensed gunsmith will make this conversion for you.
 
Mark-II said:
Not discounting your personal experience, Trinimon, but I very much could pass the blind taste test between the two in my limited exposure to both systems. I just want the option to disable it reversibly in order to see for myself. I don't belong to one camp or the other.

Anyway, I've been pointed to and have gotten the part in question, so all is well :)


(Not a colt, btw)
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Not that I want to persuade anyone of anything but I wonder to what degree the difference in these triggers is in execution rather than function.
 
^^. With respect, I was brought up right: the only safety is between your ears. The rest of that stuff you neither trust nor rely on.

And neither gunsmith I've talked to today had anything to say against my stated purpose nor advised that the shim was to be used only to create a mongrel pistol.
 
misanthropist said:
Not that I want to persuade anyone of anything but I wonder to what degree the difference in these triggers is in execution rather than function.
Click to expand...

Not sure. But for $10 I can try it either way and if there's no real difference then the lawyer levers can go back in
 
Armafix said:
Really? In your case I wouldn't trust this safety, either.
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Seriously?

What is that down there in your sig line, then, if not exactly what I've just stated? You certainly can't see very far from that high horse.

But, hey, if I ever manage to fumble and drop a loaded and chambered 1911 as I prepare for my slow deliberate string of fire at the bullseye, and if the hammer manages to shear both the sear and safety hook in a 5 foot drop, then I guess that you are right and every 1911 with a series 70 firing system should be prohibited and smelted for the greater public good.

JMB must have been a real dummy to design something so faulty and dangerous
 
Armafix said:
Are you guys aware that eliminating a factory installed safety from any gun is a NO NO?

The plate (shim) you're talking about is for fitting a series 70 slide to a series 80 frame, and not for converting series 80 guns to series 70. Of course, you can do it in a privacy of your garage or basement and everything will be fine until (heaven forbid) some accident heppens, not necessarily related to this conversion. In this case I wouldn't like to be in your shoes.

This is why no licensed gunsmith will make this conversion for you.
Click to expand...

I disagree with this assessment and many licensed gunsmiths will make this conversion for you. Series 70 models are still produced and all you are really doing is making your series 80 and series 70. It still has an external safety. If you have an accident it will likely be because you handled the gun unsafely and likely didn't use the safety, not because you removed some useless parts.
 
Trinimon said:
Last time I tried to order that TJS shim from Brownells, I was told it couldn't be exported out of the USA as the manufacturer isn't on the ITAR list.

When I got my first 1911, it was a series 80. Then I kept reading from all the 1911 purist saying that the Series 80 extra safety parts make the trigger feel horrible blah blah blah and I started doubting my purchase big time. Then I eventually got a series 70 1911 and if I did a blindfold test between my 80 and 70 series, I couldn't honestly tell you which was which. Both break at a crisp 4lb. One isn't grittier than the other despite what all the series 70 advocates say.

If you do decide to remove the series 80 parts and use a shim, you'll also have to remove the plunger assembly for the firing pin on the slide leaving that gaping hole to collect debris.

Personally, I see no reason to bother trying to convert a series 80 to a 70. If you do want a series 70 gun, sell the current one and buy a factory series 70 one instead.

That's just my 2 cents...
Click to expand...


:agree: I have owned two Colt Gold Cup NM pistols a series 70 & 80. I could not tell much difference in the triggers. I still have the series 80. I see no need for removing parts, it works fine for me as it is. :)
 
I had an 80 that had a crap trigger... First thing the smith did was remove the extra crap... and then he went to work... got rid of a lot of creep and cleaned up the break... was much better..
 
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