1944 No.4 Mk.1 (FTR 1949) - rebedded and shooting straight - finally

spinecracker

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I have been have some troubles with my 1944 No.4 Mk.1 (FTR 1949) with some vertical stringing. The width of groups was good at 100 yards - 1 to 1 1/2 inches, but the vertical displacement was 5 or 6 inches, so zeroing in this old girl was difficult. I did slap on an S&K instamount and a Tasco Pronghorn scope (my eyes are not as good as they used to be, and the scope is good enough for my purposes) a while ago, but I knew that they were rock solid and were not the cause of the problem. A quick search at another forum and I had my answer - bedding issues. After some experimentation with cork bedding at the muzzle to produce the correct 3 to 7 lbs downforce, and liberal applications of linseed oil, I went back to the range. Bugger. No real difference. I then thought about things and decided to try cork shimming (as a reversible option) between the forend and the reciever behind the trigger and, please don't hit me, plastic shims glued (but easily removable) on the receiver draws.

I went to the range yesterday to see the results of my efforts. I was shooting Sierra MatchKing 174 gr HPBT with 38.3 gr Varget using Prvi brass and CCI primers. Weather was gorgeous with no wind, good sun, 60 degrees F. Shooting position was sitting using a shooting rest under the forend on a concrete bench. Point of aim was a little cross just under the target.

This is the result with the first 5 rounds yesterday at 100 yards -
target4.jpg


Arrgghhh!!!! :bangHead: The dreaded vertical stringing. The hole on the right was a warm-up shot. Just in case I was messing up, I tried another 4 rounds (was getting low on ammo), same point of aim, to try and get a consensus of opinion -
target2.jpg


Now I am thinking "what is going on???". f:P:2: The answer? The rifle had to settle into the bedding work I had done. Point of aim was dead centre on the middle of the cross. At this point, I had not adjusted the scope whatsoever, so it was a total fluke that my prior zeroing attempts were spot on. I was just slightly pleased at this time. Next was trying the rifle out at 200 yards, point of aim = centre of target -
target3.jpg

The 2 shots high and left were after roughly adjusting for changes in bullet trajectory, the second 2 rounds (the last of my handloaded .303) were spot on.

I would consider that a good day at the range, especially as I was also shooting my old Mosin Nagant 91/30 that I have been working on (cork shimming in forend, metal shimming work on the trigger), and the grouping size is down to 1 1/2" at 50 yards using iron sights (it was 3 inches). More work is needed, though.....

The No.4 has a mirror bore and hardly any wear (looks like it came out of the factory less than 5 years ago, not more than 60 years ago...) and the action is still a little stiff. The weird (or not so weird) thing is that the rebedding has halved the force needed for the trigger pull without even having to do any work on the trigger (it was pretty stiff, too). Add to that the decreased recoil due to the amount of powder I am using, and you end up with a wonderful day of shooting. I did experiment with body positioning in a seated shooting position, and I think I am doing better with bringing my shoulder forwards against the buttplate instead of just pulling the rifle back against my shoulder - I had better aim and no sore shoulder, even after putting a whole bunch of rounds through the Mosin Nagant. I have never undergone instruction in rifle shooting, so I am sure I am making a whole bunch of mistakes lol.
 
Did you by any chance take pics of where exactly you placed those cork and plastic shims? I've a No.1 Mk.3 I'd like to try this on.
 
Stevebc, the No.1 Mk.III and the No.4 are different beasts when it comes to bedding of the forend, but there should be people here who know the specific ins and outs of bedding the No.1 Mk.III - I do not have a clue lol. I was just lucky with my bedding attempts on this rifle. I did put a cork shim under the barrel near the muzzle end (as per comments on the milsurps forum) to get the correct downward pressure (3 to 7lbs) at the muzzle end, glued thin plastic shims to the draws on the receiver until I had a tight fit between receiver and forend (and the gap between the forend and the buttsocket had disappeared), then put cork shims on the forend just behind the hole for the trigger. I also doublechecked that the spacer at the fornt of the trigger guard was the right length. Sheer fluke, but I am not complaining lol.
 
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