......

It's hard to get in trouble with H-110, unless you don't use enough. I use 22 grains with various JHPs. 1.580" and a rem 7.5 primer. They are doing nearly 1600fps from a 4.25" barrel so your rifle should push them to some very impressive velocities.
 
When I started using H110 I thought the issue of the higher maximum was due to the risk of spikes. But some data I saw later pointed out that H110 is hard to ignite. It needs the pressure to make it go... Along with the magnum primers. If you're too low for a charge this might mean that not enough powder lights off with a good consistency. So that's why the narrow range of charge amounts.

Hodgdon makes the stuff so I tend to believe what they say. And it also agrees with my Lyman manual....

The 1873 design was never intended to be used with high pressure rounds. I know we have better metal and all now but I still wonder about the old knuckle arm design that puts all the pressure into a couple of pins standing up to the full magnum power loads. If there is a problem it would show up as the head spacing opening up over time. You might want to buy a cheap feeler gauge set and cut the blades down narrow enough to fit in and slip between the casing head and the face of the bolt. Keep an eye on it and it you notice the head spacing growing I'd call a halt to the full power loads. I suspect that although it's chambered in .357 this was still intended more as a gun for cowboy action shooting with moderate .38Spl like load recipes.

I'll gladly eat crow if I'm wrong. But I still think it's a good idea to keep a close eye on the headspacing as a sign of beating up the action too much due to the pressure.

I got one of those myself. But mine is in .44-40. They certainly are beautiful guns.

Over all I think you'll find that a better action for a steady diet of full power loads would be an 1892. This later design really is tough as nails due to the generous size lockup blocks that spread the pressure out.
 
Fair enough, I can't argue that loading to lower pressures won't be easier on a gun. I still think the action is more than robust enough for a reasonable diet of full power ammunition though.
 
It is well documented that the toggle link action will not handle a steady diet of full power loads.
Lots have tried and they all fail.
Can you shoot some? Sure.
How many?
No one knows.
Not wise to advocate running any diet of full power loads threw a gun that was never designed to be done.
The new metals in the new guns will last longer.
But if one wants full power out of a 357 carbine there are many better choices than a 73
 
It is well documented that the toggle link action will not handle a steady diet of full power loads.
Lots have tried and they all fail.
Can you shoot some? Sure.
How many?
No one knows.
Not wise to advocate running any diet of full power loads threw a gun that was never designed to be done.
The new metals in the new guns will last longer.
But if one wants full power out of a 357 carbine there are many better choices than a 73

I'm at a bit of a loss to figure out why someone would buy a gun that can't handle the cartridge stamped on the barrel. The 73 is probably the only popular lever I haven't owned. No particular reason but it looks like I will be steering clear. Good data from your testing 6MT. I always like seeing velocity numbers.
 
Back
Top Bottom