1st Rust blueing project

RBguns

New member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Leduc, Alberta
I would like to share a bit about the restoration and bluing process I took on my first rifle.
(this post is reposted here by request of #skwerl, thanks for the directions!)

I inherited a 1968 BAR 30-06 that was put away dirty, in a soft case, inside my dad's closet for 22 years before he passed. From then it was kept by my mom, in the same manner, for another 14 years before last year where it was passed on to me. I spent much time researching the proper means in which to remove the corrosion and rust which had formed on it do to the poor maintenance. Finally I decided to proceed with a full sand down and rust-bluing process as has been used to protect bare steel hundreds of years ago. I stripped the gun down to the last pin and proceeded with sanding barrel and chamber down to 600 grit, leaving a pure white flawless metal. I then procured Laurel Mountain's Barrel Brown and Degreaser (which I bought two 2.5oz bottles as I didn't want to pay shipping twice if the first bottle ran out or got dropped) ps. I have 1 3/4 of that stuff left if anyone is looking for a good solution.

Now I had to make an adequate barrel stand that would allow me to apply the solution without contacting the parts being applied to. I used 2x4 3' long with vertical ends fastened each side that had a 'v' notch on top. I then used an electrical cord to run down the barrel an locked it on the v notches to suspended the barrel while I treated it.

The next hurdle was to devise a cabinet that I could suspend the parts in a humid, warm environment in order to accelerate the rusting process. I used some 3/8 plywood I had on hand and created a coffin of about 5' tall by 2' square. I calked all seems and installed a dowel along the top for which I could hang the barrel and used old bbq wire racks to create a basket for the smaller parts to rest. It was heated and humidity added by a single element hotplate with an old roster pot of water on it and sitting at the base of the box.

The last creation I needed to devise was a way to boil the rust to convert it into patina. This I accomplished by using 4" pvc pipe of 5' long that I fixed to the same roster pot with a toilet flange which was screwed onto the pots lid. At the top of the pipe I used a end cap with notches at opposite each other to allow for another dowel to rest which I could hang the barrel from and cap it. This pot of water on the hotplate would then be allowed to boil, creating steam in the capped tube which in essence is the same result as boiling the steel.

So I would have to degrease the parts, apply the solution, place in cabinet to rust for about half an hour, then transfer to steam tube for 10-15 minutes and lastly to my bench where I would "card" the patina with 0000 steel wool to bring out the results from the bluing process. This I would go on to repeat 4 more times in sequence, until I was left with a beautiful blued finish where the trick to stop any further rusting effects was to soak and leave soaking all components in clear kerosene which I did for 24hrs.

The end result was less than factory perfect but was perfectly satisfactory to me as a perfectionist.


 
Last edited:
Did you do anything to protect the rifling or the chamber in that barrel? Has always been my "hold up" to try that - I can not come up with a good way to prevent that "rust bluing" from occurring within the barrel and chamber.
 
Did you do anything to protect the rifling or the chamber in that barrel? Has always been my "hold up" to try that - I can not come up with a good way to prevent that "rust bluing" from occurring within the barrel and chamber.
Hi Potashminer.
I ended up using cork that I shaved down to fit as a plug in both the crown and chamber end of the barrel. As for the rest of exposed metal, I allowed the bluing process to occur as it does not affect clearances but instead should aid in protection.

If I could figure out how to successfully link my Imgur that has all the photos of the process. Working on it still
 
Looks good. I just finished my first attempt using homemade solution, I'd like to see what I can make with a commercial bluing product.
Did you use a salt and vinegar mixture? I heard it can be tricky to get it to "rust" evenly and that it was a slower process? How did yours turn out? I found that I just couldn't find a rust bluing/browning solution sold in canada wich was why I ended up importing from Laurel Mountain company, which was a bit pricy but it did work like a hot dang!
 
Hi Potashminer.
I ended up using cork that I shaved down to fit as a plug in both the crown and chamber end of the barrel. As for the rest of exposed metal, I allowed the bluing process to occur as it does not affect clearances but instead should aid in protection.

If I could figure out how to successfully link my Imgur that has all the photos of the process. Working on it still
I think that BAR is a gas operated semi-auto - not recoil operated - did you plug the hole for the gas vent as well?
 
I think that BAR is a gas operated semi-auto - not recoil operated - did you plug the hole for the gas vent as well?
Yes you are correct and I did cap the ends of the gas cylinder with rubber plugs, sorry I forgetting a bit of the process I went through on it as time passes. With the barrel and cylinder plugged, and after each session of rusting then steaming, I'd swab the barrel clean and with oil, just to be sure every time. I've shot just under 200 rounds from it since and it has been very reliable as their reputation promotes
 
I am not sure where is the piston and seals in that thing - I presume the powder gas can not get past that - so not likely that steam or whatever can get it there - maybe there is meant to be some "blow-by" - I do not know exactly how that set-up is made.
 
I am not sure where is the piston and seals in that thing - I presume the powder gas can not get past that - so not likely that steam or whatever can get it there - maybe there is meant to be some "blow-by" - I do not know exactly how that set-up is made.
In the first picture, with the gun layed out and taken apart, under the barrel is the gas piston. That I kept clean and apparently from the bluing. At the right of the picture, set out on a white paper towel, the circular part in the middle and on the right is the regulator. The regulator is threaded and works as the screw to hold the action, spring and guide together with the cylinder. I blued the regulator, washer and cylinder (external) but kept the action, piston and all parts that showed no signs of being blued by factory apart from the process. Everything I blued, had already been by factory assembly. The orifice that receives the gas through the barrel is next to invisible it seems so small. Regardless of the holes size, the chemical reaction of blueing does not add or remove material from the metal it instead converts a small surface layer into patina, leaving clearances unaltered. At least to the bit of science that I tried to understand throughout my learning how to go about this.
 
Did you use a salt and vinegar mixture? I heard it can be tricky to get it to "rust" evenly and that it was a slower process? How did yours turn out? I found that I just couldn't find a rust bluing/browning solution sold in canada wich was why I ended up importing from Laurel Mountain company, which was a bit pricy but it did work like a hot dang!
Yes, salt, vinegar, and peroxide. It definitely wasn't a perfect procedure, but it produced the look I was after to match the rest of the gun.
 

Attachments

  • extension.jpg
    extension.jpg
    147.9 KB · Views: 30
i was told by Englishman_ca that Laurel Mountain company bluing solution was the best stuff you could get and worth the price over any homemade recipes. of course i have yet to try it but did try a few different home brews.

for none hardened parts, peroxide, vinegar and salt works very well and fast, you can do a few coats an hour
 
i was told by Englishman_ca that Laurel Mountain company bluing solution was the best stuff you could get and worth the price over any homemade recipes. of course i have yet to try it but did try a few different home brews.

for none hardened parts, peroxide, vinegar and salt works very well and fast, you can do a few coats an hour
I too found with researching that Laurel Mountain was unanimously praised for that purpose
 
trying not to take away from your thread but add to it,

the top pics is a rust bluing job i did with the peroxide, salt and vinegar

the bottom pics are hot caustic bluing with stump remover

53317436614_cd5389ec5e_b.jpg


53317082536_316719df24_b.jpg


53317082376_b29b510130_b.jpg


53316214367_fb31479692_b.jpg




45993970304_456d481b26_b.jpg


45993951724_c271ba8b07_b.jpg


31777143757_e7c7289177_b.jpg
 
trying not to take away from your thread but add to it,

the top pics is a rust bluing job i did with the peroxide, salt and vinegar

the bottom pics are hot caustic bluing with stump remover

53317436614_cd5389ec5e_b.jpg


53317082536_316719df24_b.jpg


53317082376_b29b510130_b.jpg


53316214367_fb31479692_b.jpg




45993970304_456d481b26_b.jpg


45993951724_c271ba8b07_b.jpg


31777143757_e7c7289177_b.jpg
Very nice work, never heard of using stump remover chemical as caustic bluing. Great work!
 
Great job. And thanks for posting up pictures through out the process. Really interesting to see the receiver and barrel progress through the steps.
Finished rifle looks really good.
 
Back
Top Bottom