20 Gauge Loads for Grouse ?

I

Iron Glove

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Took up the sport of Grouse Hunting last year in the BC Southern Interior. Just used the trusty 22 and 410 but now I want to get into it a bit more and experience the "sport" rather than the "hunting" this fall so I have just picked up a 20 gauge with an adjustable choke.
Now, the question is, what loads to use and what choke settings are suggested? Most will be in light to heavy pine forests with shots in the 30 to 60 foot range.
Thinking of training our Duck Toller - she really is good at flushing the birds out but is gun shy :( or maybe my daughter's young Lab who is dumb as a bag of hammers but is a great retriever and totally gun happy. :D
Any comments gratefully received.
 
With side-by-sides, I usually use 7/8 oz of #7 1/2 shot in the more open-choked barrel and the same load of #6 in the tighter choked barrel.

With autos and pump guns, I put the 7 1/2 in the chamber and 2 rounds of #6 in the magasine.
 
I am a 7.5 and 6 user myself.

That lab will do the trick. If you don't want to get into any serious training, just make sure he knows, sit, stay and come and then get a few dead pigeons, throw them, hide them etc, that's all it takes.
That and make sure the dog stays well within gun range.

enjoy.
 
I've had pretty good luck with 5s in thick brush (especially if you happen across an unlucky rabbit when your out grousing). IMO it cuts through the brush better. I usually have a 6 in the pipe and 2 5s in the tube.
 
For 20ga. I like #4's for grouse around here, less pellets in the breast and it seems to go through brush better. They seem to be hard to find though.
 
I use 1 oz of #6 in early fall and switch to 7 1/2 later when leaves are down. I have had good luck with mod. choke. Inp cyl if flushing close.
 
Iron Glove said:
Thinking of training our Duck Toller - she really is good at flushing the birds out but is gun shy :( or maybe my daughter's young Lab who is dumb as a bag of hammers but is a great retriever and totally gun happy. :D
Any comments gratefully received.
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Hey IG,

welcome to the addiction. Chasing grouse is great fun, especially if you have your 4 legged buddy along!

Don't give up on your Toller too quick- My Toller / Golden cross was a bit gunshy at first. And the very first grouse he ever flushed scared the beejeesus out of him when he was little. :p

I used to take him out for walks in the bush and just carry my shotgun. Then after a couple walks, I would wait until he was well away from me, and get his attention and call him back. As he came, I would face in a safe direction and fire a shot so I knew he could see what I was doing.

A few times like that, and now he is fine, and his instincts take over when he sees a bird on the ground. When the shotgun comes out of the safe, he starts getting excited, cause he knows what's coming!
 
IG,

Keep working the dog. Some take a bit more time but they learn alot by repetition. Lots of short duration retrieving games. Lots of short duration gun training.

I found that 10 minutes, three or four times a day was a successful training regiment for my dog and in a few weeks they catch on permanently. It has to be fun so dont get discouraged. Dogs pick up on that.

If I can teach a German Shepherd to retrieve, open doorknobs and bring me screwdrivers instead of a ratchet, you can too.

(good Ol Jake, RIP)
 
Bush Man said:
I'm curious why you guys are putting different loads in the chamber and the tube for pump/autos. I'm sure there is a good reason, I just can't figure it out.
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In the case of a SxS with double triggers, this is done because you usually have 2 different chokes. If the shot presented is relatively short range, you fire the more open choked barrel with smaller shot size loaded. This offers a wider pattern at short ranges and pellet energy is not an issue at those distances, so you go for smaller pellets and get more of them in the air as a result. The theory being that, hopefully, more of them will get through any cover that gets in the way.

When the first shot misses, or the shot presentation is further out, you fire the tighter-choked barrel (with double triggers, you have this choice). At the greater distances, you need tighter choke to achieve an optimal pattern at the point where the shot stream meets the target. You also want larger shot sizes at these distances, so that the pellets retain sufficient energy to penetrate feathers and skin. Smaller, lighter shot sizes are more affected by air resistance.

Pump-action shotguns don't have quite the same considerations, because you don't have the advantage of choke selection while shooting. With pumps, I go with the smaller shot in the chamber and larger shot rounds in the mag because I'm hoping the first shot will be closer than the second or third, if needed - the same pellet energy situation as with SxS's.
 
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