22 barrel liner
- Thread starter chasseur
- Start date
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
That's good news. There are things I've been waiting years to order and barrel liners are on the list.
Do you know where the new rules are posted? Still $$ limits and banned items or pretty open besides actions?
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
Thanks for letting us know there are more options again. Even if it doesn't go much beyond liners it's an improvement!
I'll have to do some research.
I'll have to do some research.
Order the correct drill bit, while you are at it.
An option for that, is to order a couple extra and resell what you don't use.
Always seems to be guys looking!
I recently purchased three of them for under $200 for all three, delivered. The broker is unmentionable here, so you will have to do your own sourcing.
I found the barrel liners on their site.
I didn't order piloted barrel drills because they're more expensive than a barrel liner, which makes the price prohibitive.
A 5/16 HSS drill bit, with a length of 1/4 drill rod or even a brass rod, welded or silver soldered to its base does the job just fine. The hole doesn't have to be drilled in one pass and can be pulled out to remove the chips, then started again. A hand held drill will work just fine for a 22 liner. Larger diameter tubes should be drilled with a lathe, which would require a spider on the outboard end of the spindle to keep everything true.
I found the barrel liners on their site.
I didn't order piloted barrel drills because they're more expensive than a barrel liner, which makes the price prohibitive.
A 5/16 HSS drill bit, with a length of 1/4 drill rod or even a brass rod, welded or silver soldered to its base does the job just fine. The hole doesn't have to be drilled in one pass and can be pulled out to remove the chips, then started again. A hand held drill will work just fine for a 22 liner. Larger diameter tubes should be drilled with a lathe, which would require a spider on the outboard end of the spindle to keep everything true.
Yeah, anyone with a lathe, and a Dremel Tool , and that understands Drill Geometry enough to hand grind a drill to some level of fitness for use as such, should have no problems making a cheap drill from the hardware store, work as required.
But lots of guys have not reached that stage yet, even if they should have in grade school, so buying the ready made stuff is a good enough value!
Not sure why ya felt an insult was necessary, and you provided nothing worth any value to the OP’s question.
Should be proficient in grinding drill bits in grade school, good grief.
I suggest you buy the drill bit, sell it after you complete your project, or keep for another. I dont recall them being that pricey.
Labour rates outweigh building your own drill bits in my opinion.
Should be proficient in grinding drill bits in grade school, good grief.
I suggest you buy the drill bit, sell it after you complete your project, or keep for another. I dont recall them being that pricey.
Labour rates outweigh building your own drill bits in my opinion.
As guntech says, a lathe is best but only a lucky few of us has one of those marvelous contraptions that is large enough to do the job.
Like most things, you may have the skills but if you don't have the right tools, the job will not turn out as desired.
For me, it's pretty easy to grind the front of a drill bit to act as a fixed pilot. You don't need a rotating pilot for this job. You're going to be removing the metal you would worry about.
Biggest issue with a home made set up is keeping the chips out of the way and building up to jam the bit and break it off in the barrel.
As long as the hole is drilled without excessive clearance the liner will usually stay true to the axis of the bore.
I use Devcon Titanium or Steel Putty to keep the tube in place. Some smiths actually solder the liners in place. That takes some real skill, which I don't have the equipment for.
Even a small lathe works well for drilling out a .22 rifle barrel for a liner, if you have made a centering device for the back end of your headstock.
Buy the piloted drill, and extra liners - they can always be sold, to someone who doesn't want to go through the hassle of importing.
Guntech has the truly professional tool, but a piloted drill works fine for a careful workman.
Buy the piloted drill, and extra liners - they can always be sold, to someone who doesn't want to go through the hassle of importing.
Guntech has the truly professional tool, but a piloted drill works fine for a careful workman.
Brownelle's lists their piloted drills at US$118. Add shipping, taxes, dollar differential and it almost doubles that by the time it reaches you.
For folks doing one offs or odd jobs, they would be better served to purchase and fit a new barrel, rather than line the old one. IMHO of course.
Decent quality barrels can usually be found at the local gun shop, either from take offs or even Green Mount barrels from Bits of Pieces at very reasonable prices.
The last 224 bore, used barrel I bought out of the bin at the LGS cost $50 and it looked almost new. It resides on a Martini Cadet and shoots very well.
As for the size of the lathe, you need to have at least a 1 inch spindle bore and it should be threaded to accept a spider, so that the bore of the barrel can be held true to center. Most small lathes don't have threads on the outboard end of their spindles.
Some of the small lathes to have extended spindles. I saw one last week. The owner brought it with him from Europe. The spindle itself had been drilled and tapped so that three screws could be adjusted against the work piece to center it.
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What insult? Look around this place and guys are looking for people to do simple stuff for them all the time. Folks take lawnmowers to the shop, and pay some guy to put a new pull cord on their mower. If they don't decide that a new one is cheaper than the minimum shop charge.
I have school texts from the 30's through the 50's that show kids being expected to have some practical hand skills and knowledge, well before they ever got out of Primary school. Both Carpentry and Metalworking were taught to kids in grades three and four.
I have also spent a great deal of my life, teaching basic stuff like this to adults, some of whom had a very hard time with concepts such as that a lathe cut of 10 thou feed in, will reduce the diameter by twice that. And many had not enough ability to put together cause and effect, when it came to things like running a file. Another skill in very short supply.
So, like I said, anyone with a lathe and a Dremel tool, and a modicum of knowledge of drill geometry, can put a pilot on a drill bit that will work fine. Otherwise, it's likely best that a piloted drill bit be bought.
Maybe cool your jets some, and stop trying to find reasons to be offended.
Jebus save us! They sure have gone up in price.
I knew I should have made a bunch while I had access to a tool and cutter grinder!
Oh well. I still have my lathe and a Dremel! LOL!
I ground a pilot on a 5/16 drill using an electric drill and a 6" grinder, then center drilled (with a lathe) the back of the 5/16" drill and silver soldered an extension. I drilled from both ends, meeting in the center and it worked perfectly. One comment; clear the chips frequently.
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
