.223/5.56 Loads

peacefrog

peacefrog

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Can anyone suggest a good load for my AR15(s)? I have a lot of brass, different brands some milsurp, some civilian factory stuff. I don't know what primers or powder to use since I only have reloading experience for pistols. I would be most likely using a Dillon Square D or possibly a Dillon 550.

I just shot a nice group yesterday with Winchester 62gr. factory ammo.

That was from a 20" free floated barrel with 3-9x40mm Tasco on a flat top, receiver, Eagle Arms lower.

I also have a 16" Bushmaster Carbine with Hbar, 1:9 twist iron sights only for now.

The shorty, which is giving me grief to sight in, so far only shot about 75-100 rounds out of that one, and not wildly impressed with it's (or my) accuracy at 100 yds.

Would the same load work in both guns equally well?

Any suggestions on getting the short barrel gun shooting where it should? I have moved windage about 6 clicks to the right and front sight post down 6 clicks and still not centered at 100 yds. Is it me? Do guns have a "break in period"?
 
I handload .223 for my AR15 11.5" my starting load is 24.5gr imr 4064 w/ hornady 55gr fmjbt 2.245" OAL. They're my plink ammo. For precision I use 63gr RUAG and did .75moa with my ACOG TA31F.

Lot's of things to consider while loading for an AR15 rifle.

1) Freefloating firepin (if you use soft primers you risk a slamfire or OOB discharge). CCI #41 are military primers and you don't risk such problems.
2) I wouldn't consider loading at 5.56 pressure. 5.56 has crimped primers for a reason.
3) Use crimp die
4) Check headspace - very important

I would also read this: http://www.fulton-armory.com/ReloadingThoughts.htm
 
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Try zeroing at 25 meters to start and get you on paper where you want to be.
There should be no break-in period, but if it is used try giving the bore a good scrub.
I didn't know the square D did .223? - anyhow I think the 550 is a good bet, and you'll have no issues with propriatary dies.
Primers - you can use pretty much anything - just seat them below the rim of the base and you'll be fine (same as any other primer seating).
For consistancy, match primers offer an advantage, but by no means are they necessary.
Powders - extruded 'stick' powders give the best consistancy insofar as pressures and velocities - something in the H4895 or Winchester W748 range is good for the 50-65 grain bullet range. If ball powders float your boat, H335 is a good starting place for the lighter stuff.

Both Hornady and Sierra offer load info that is AR-15 specific, so pick up that information (either a manual or their websites)
 
If you are going to get a Dillon go with the 550. Its much easier to change the caliber and it will do pistol and rifle calibers. I would recommend ball powders becaus it will work better with the powder thrower on the Dillon. I have not had good luck with stick powders. I reload .308 on my 550 and its nowhere close to consistent.
 
The Dillon powder dispensers can be adjusted to reliably throw consistant charges of extruded powders - with both small and large charge bars.
I do it for both pistol and rifle:)
 
beltfed said:
The Dillon powder dispensers can be adjusted to reliably throw consistant charges of extruded powders - with both small and large charge bars.
I do it for both pistol and rifle:)
Click to expand...

I must be doing something wrong then because I have very bad luck with consistency and extruded powders. Its good to know that it can be done though, I will try again when I reload more .308
 
Looks like I'll keep saving for the Dillon 550. I'll have a look at the specs on the manufacturers websites too. Thanks for the starting points though. The Bushmaster is brand new, so I'm puzzeled by the hard time sighting in.

Offhand at 25yards I'm on paper a little low and left - back at 100 yards, well the broad side of a barn comes to mind. I'm going to keep trying, just don't want to blow a lot of $ on ammo for no reason. If I'm going to make all that noise it would be nice to have good target results to show for the effort.
 
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