223 barrel makers ...

Otokiak

Otokiak

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Who is a reputable barrel maker that I could find to make me a heavy barrel 20 inch in 223 with a 1:7 twist that'll thread into a Remington 700 action? Thanks in advance,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
You can buy any type of .224 1:7 barrel blank and have it made to your tolerances. More importantly you need a competent gunsmith to put the barrel on the 700 action. I would suggest a Krieger, Mcgowen, or a Shilen barrel.
 
Whichever you choose make sure you get the throat set that lets you seat the bullets out where you want them. With my shilen SS match 8 twist I have to seat the 80 grain Amax very deep in the case. The barrel shoots 69 SMKs well but the 80 Amaxes not as well as I had hoped. The throat may or may not be the issue. I have to try diffferent heavier bullets and powder combos. I am not complaining just making you aware. :)

I really wish more 223 heavy for caliber shooters would post more detail on what is working fot them in terms of reamer used, bullet seating depth, etc. Or do I just always miss those threads.
 
Wow ok fast responses and pm's coming in ... excellent thank you ... I want to make something somewhat compact ... hence 20 inch barrel request ... however, would a 22 inch barrel be a bit better or it won't affect accuracy much? I'm thinking a AICS 2.0 folder stock, re-barrel, new trigger, handle knob, 1 piece mount and good optics. What does lapping the bolt mean? Blueprinting I understand but when you do it ... what exactly are you blueprinting? Thanks CGN,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
The idea of tuning any front locking solid bolt action is to make ALL the dimensions true to the boreline when the action is locked up and fired.

Areas like the lug recess, raceway, receiver front, receiver threads may not be aligned so blueprinting is the worked needed to clean up all these errors

Bolt lapping is what is done to ensure both lugs will seat with as much contact as possible in the action recess at lock up. Again, due to alignment and manf tolerances, it is not uncommon to have lugs with little to no contact with the action. This allows the bolt to bend under the pressure of firing and that can cause a number of maladies for the rifles performance.

Another area that many competition shooters work on is the fitment of the bolt body in the action especially the rear under the bridge. If there is alot of gap, the bolt will drop/bounce when the sear is dropped. This has been shown to affect accuracy in competition rigs.

By bushing the rear or using a larger bolt body with a zero tolerance fit, the bolt is suspended at lock up with no movement during the firing process. However, removing all of these tolerance might make the action less tolerant of dirty environment

All of these processes are designed to make that action lock up tight, straight and not move under pressure.

Can get pretty darn pricey.

Is it necessary? For the average accuracy nut/varminter/plinker, the big advantage is that the cases don't grow excessively or worse, bend. They will likely not see much on paper.

For the competition shooter, it is pretty much a must do as you simply cannot afford to risk anything in the platform that reduces its consistency. AND you definitely don't want your cases to be wonky after running them at elevated pressures.

There is no mechanical advantage accuracy wise between the 20 and 22" barrel. The longer barrels will tend to reach higher muzzle velocities.

Jerry
 
Thanks for the explanation Jerry. Next question as I spoke with a few friends about reloading which I'm getting into and learning about for 223, 308 and 30-06 ... my question is about barrel twist ... I was told if I go with a 1:7 barrel I won't be able to shoot smaller grain bullets such as 55 FMJ ... so do I go with a 1:8 or 1:9 twist barrel? I'd like to shoot heavy bullets as well ... so whats the suggested twist for all around grain? Thanks again CGN,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
1 in 9. Mine shot 75gr HPBT match bullets well. Others here have had success with 75 gr A-Max but I couldn't get them to shoot for me. All 69/68gr match shot superbly for me. 60gr FBHP Sierra's shot very well also. 55gr were ok but nothing to get excited about. My 1 in 7 shoots factory 55's so poorly I haven't tried anything under 69gr when I do the cooking.
 
Otokiak said:
... my question is about barrel twist ... I was told if I go with a 1:7 barrel I won't be able to shoot smaller grain bullets such as 55 FMJ ... so do I go with a 1:8 or 1:9 twist barrel? I'd like to shoot heavy bullets as well ... so whats the suggested twist for all around grain? Thanks again CGN,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
Click to expand...

The only reason to get a 7 twist is if you have plans to shoot the 90gr VLD's. AND to shoot these effectively, you will have to throat your chamber long negating the use of light bullet.

If you want an around plinker, varminter, paper puncher and use the widest range of bullets, a standard 223 Rem chamber with a 9 twist will get it done. 75gr is the heaviest you can go but the lighter bullets will work well.

My fave is the 8 twist and 80gr Amax or Bergers. This covers all that I could possibly want out of a 223 and what is in my Savage tactical mag fed rifle. I only load the 80gr bullets and use it for everything.

My F TR rigs will have 7 twists, long throats and only shoot the 90's.

Jerry
 
Thanks Jerry, I'll be contacting you in about 2 weeks to discuss a build after my holiday. :D Cheers,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
Otokiak said:
Thanks for the explanation Jerry. Next question as I spoke with a few friends about reloading which I'm getting into and learning about for 223, 308 and 30-06 ... my question is about barrel twist ... I was told if I go with a 1:7 barrel I won't be able to shoot smaller grain bullets such as 55 FMJ ... so do I go with a 1:8 or 1:9 twist barrel? I'd like to shoot heavy bullets as well ... so whats the suggested twist for all around grain? Thanks again CGN,

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
Click to expand...


I have a savage 12 VLP DBM with .223 rem. 1 in 9 twist. (measured at 1 in 8.75 inches.) I have created an excel spreadsheet that allows you to input temp pressure and barrel twist and driven velocity for numerous .224 cal bullets with G7 coefficent and calculates stability. Fun to play around with to see what your rifle can do.

I can shoot the 75gr A-maxes to about -500 ft Density Altitude. (34F about 29.00"HG absolute) It also has a Density Altitude calculator.
Haven't tried it yet but It calculates the 80 gr a max above 1700' DA (about 70F 29"HG) are shootable.

If anyone want a copy PM me an email address and I send it off to you.

Cheers
Mark
 
hifly78, I did not understand a thing you wrote ... HAHA ... i'm just getting into this whole reloading, custom built rifle and trying to go shoot long distance as I live in WIDE open country.

Next question ... is it easy to acquire a Remington 700 receiver and bolt for 223 or do I have to purchase a rifle and rebarrel? I want to build a rifle with barrel, receiver/bolt, trigger assembly, stock, etc all seperate. I want to build a shooter for long distance targets but be able to use it to hunt if I wish. I want to put this in an AICS 2.0 folder stock. where can I get a receiver/bolt?

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
Talk to juanvaldez if you are going to completely strip a stock rifle one of these Pierce actions is probably just as cost effective.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=560945&highlight=pierce
 
wapitiwhacker said:
Talk to juanvaldez if you are going to completely strip a stock rifle one of these Pierce actions is probably just as cost effective.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=560945&highlight=pierce
Click to expand...

I saw the Pierce action at Seans place last week, VERY nice piece of kit. Might be the heart and soul of my next build--but I want to master the current one first!:redface:
 
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