223 semi auto ?
- Thread starter GIXXER
- Start date
Sorry was looking for powder (type/amount) and also if that was a good bullet or if there were better choices (mostly varmint hunting)
I have about 4 reloading books BUT was wondering if the semi made much of a difference
If it makes any difference its a mini 14
I have about 4 reloading books BUT was wondering if the semi made much of a difference
If it makes any difference its a mini 14
mattfrombc
Regular
Lets see...
- I'd reccomend a good crimp (i use the lee factory crimp die) so as to prevent bullet setback and the dangers that can pose
- Being a semi auto you want to full length resize
- Some good powders are IMI 4895 as well as Varget (thats what I use)
- Start with the base load for the bullet size and work up in 0.3 grain increments or there abouts. Or else take the max load and reduce it by 10% for your starting point.
- I havent done a lot of varmint hunting but I have heard that v-max are pretty good for varminting.
- I'd reccomend a good crimp (i use the lee factory crimp die) so as to prevent bullet setback and the dangers that can pose
- Being a semi auto you want to full length resize
- Some good powders are IMI 4895 as well as Varget (thats what I use)
- Start with the base load for the bullet size and work up in 0.3 grain increments or there abouts. Or else take the max load and reduce it by 10% for your starting point.
- I havent done a lot of varmint hunting but I have heard that v-max are pretty good for varminting.
lcq said:
Yup, 25gr of WC735 works just great with a 55gr bullet. WC735 is an excellent powder for the 223 and about as inexpensive as you can get. It's very similar to H335. The last time I bought some, Higginson Powders sold it for $17/Lb, $58/4lbs and $98/7lbs. I usually buy 21lbs at a time and save the shipping charges that way
"...if the semi made much of a difference..." Only that you'll have to full length resize every time. Be sure the cases are all the same length. Other than that, there's nothing different in loading for a semi than there is for a bolt action. Then just work up a load by bullet weight. Chamfer the inside of the case mouth too. It aids in bullet seating.
Begin with the starting load and load 5 rounds only. Go up by half a grain, loading 5 of each until you get to the maximum load in your manual(I'm partial to the Lyman manuals myself. More loads for more different powders than a manufacturer's manual. Friggin' things aren't cheap though). Be sure to keep the loaded cases separate. Then go shooting slowly and carefully off a bench for group only. Change targets between strings of 5, mark the load on the target and allow time for the barrel to cool. When you have found the best group, you can either load that or go back one load and work up by 1/10th grain to find the absolute best grouping load for your rifle. Crimping may or may not help. If you do decide to crimp, use as little as possible.
Mind you, you aren't likely to find a tack driving load with a Mini-14, but you'll find one that your rifle shoots best. That being the whole point of reloading.
Begin with the starting load and load 5 rounds only. Go up by half a grain, loading 5 of each until you get to the maximum load in your manual(I'm partial to the Lyman manuals myself. More loads for more different powders than a manufacturer's manual. Friggin' things aren't cheap though). Be sure to keep the loaded cases separate. Then go shooting slowly and carefully off a bench for group only. Change targets between strings of 5, mark the load on the target and allow time for the barrel to cool. When you have found the best group, you can either load that or go back one load and work up by 1/10th grain to find the absolute best grouping load for your rifle. Crimping may or may not help. If you do decide to crimp, use as little as possible.
Mind you, you aren't likely to find a tack driving load with a Mini-14, but you'll find one that your rifle shoots best. That being the whole point of reloading.
