22Lr peened chamber

jdawg

jdawg

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So I've got a remington model 12 pump 22lr that I am fixing up for my uncle, he told me that it had been cycling rough so I brought it in and cleaned it up it seemed to be cycling smooth so I brought it out to the range. And it was horribly tough to eject, I then caught a few of the ejected shells and noticed the scratch down the side of the cartridge. I then noticed the badly peened chamber face and realized this was due to excessive dry firing.

So my question is this has anybody encountered this and how did you solve it I've done some reading and have found the tool from brownells

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/chamber-tools/22-chamber-ironing-tool-prod8869.aspx

Is it worth it does it work well and has anybody fixed this issue on their own without the tool? Has anybody made their own tool for this?

Thanks
 
I have one, it works well. Depending in the hardness of the metal and the firing pin design, if it happened once it may repeat, so the tool is a way to restore without permanently damaging the chamber by removing material.

dr jim
 
If you have peening that bad, you probably have a nice dent where the firing pin is slamming into the chamberface. Here's what
i do with 22s that have that issue. File the bur as mentioned, then slide an empty .22 case halfway into the chamber. With a wirefeed welder on a lower setting, blob a bit of weld into the divot created by the firing pin. This may take a few attempts to get the surrounding metal up to temp and the blob may get large but that's what the Dremel is for! Remove the casing and grind the blob down flush with the rest of the chamber face. the hardest part is grinding out the recess for the rim.....don't forget that! Good luck.
 
I prefer to run a .22 LR chambering reamer in just enough to clean up the displaced material and not to change headspace.
 
I've used a drill rod the dia. of the chamber. Grind a flat on one side just enough to clear the peening and round the transition between the round and flat.
Insert into the chamber and work the rod back and forth to iron as much metal back into place as possible, then clean up with a file, reamer or what ever you have.
( reamer would be best if you have access to one )
Provided the barrel steel is not too hard it should work, at least it has for me.
 
I've used a tapered pin to swage the peened in metal back to (mostly) where it came from. You can use the taper portion of a pin punch or center punch. You can tap that sideways with another punch, to move the metal a bit more, in the direction you need it to go

You can take a good look at the chamber tool that Brownells sells and make one too. Not magic or anything, just a smooth polished bit of hardened steel that was made into a shape that allows you to twist on the handle to move a bit of metal around.

I'd suggest steering clear of a MIG welder, and find a guy with a TIG that can lay in a couple small dabs of filler where needed. But that only if ther is not enoughmetal able to be moved back into the dent.

Move metal first, then file or ream. Putting it back where it came from is way easier than putting it back on when it's been cut off.


Cheers
Trev
 
If' you're handy with a lathe and can machine up, polish and then harden and temper a bit of drill rod I'd suggest you make up the smoothong swager (a smoothed and very slightly tapered "D" form) to push most of the displaced metal back out as suggested by some above. All told if it takes you more than an hour from start to finish you're loafing... :D

If you're not that handy then a very fine cut small jeweler's file will remove the burr. It's just that it leaves a bigger peened hollow because you didn't displace the metal back into place reasonably well.
 
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