22LR Zero
- Thread starter Furlan1098R
- Start date
I zero at 100m. And verify my dope at 28, 50, 75, 150, 194m (and further when if I get the chance). The closer distances take out the wind influence at 100m.
I don't run a zero stop scope.
For ORPS/CRPS we are all over the place on distances, so you're dialing or holding for one or more of the targets for each stage. Whether I dial up or down, it doesn't make much difference.
It works for me, as long as you get into the habit of returning your scope to your zero after each stage. Otherwise you best know how many clicks, or rotations to the bottom or top of your elevation to get back to zero.
I don't run a zero stop scope.
For ORPS/CRPS we are all over the place on distances, so you're dialing or holding for one or more of the targets for each stage. Whether I dial up or down, it doesn't make much difference.
It works for me, as long as you get into the habit of returning your scope to your zero after each stage. Otherwise you best know how many clicks, or rotations to the bottom or top of your elevation to get back to zero.
RJThis. I’ve only shot 1 match, a CRPS from 34 to 325M. I zeroed at 50M. My Diamondback tactical has no zero stop, and without a canted rail I’ve only got 11.8mils to dial up. About the same down, so if I forget where I am I have to dial all the way up or down to know. The second turret rotation (6mils/turn) doesn’t show different in the dial. About 230M dialing, so lots of dialing and holding. If I get Burris XTR rings I might be able to zero at 100M with a 40MOA offset. If you are only going to 200M ish zero yours closer, maybe 50, or 25 if you shoot that close a lot.
Wow, that worked out great. 66 MOA dialing down to zero from Center with a 4-16 Diamondback. Mine has a total travel from top to bottom of 4 turns at 6mil/turn. 24 mils total. That works out to 81.6MOA. My ballistic solver says approximately 105MOA to 415M from 50M zero. I believe you are wearing rubber boots and shoveling pretty fast my friend.
You want to be able to hit a target at 500m with a 22LR. Are we talking about a side of a barn or what? If you are just in love with the technology, I can understand that, but to shoot at a 500m target with a 22LR I don't understand.
50m zero.
I shoot a Savage in an MDT chassis, topped with 40moa rail and Strike eagle without the zero stop... I get 24+MIL of travel. With Lapua Center-X I can consistently hit a 16" plate at 330y with just 16.8MIL of dial.
24mil should take me out to 420y and then 7 MIL of hold over to 31MIL and 500y...
I shoot a Savage in an MDT chassis, topped with 40moa rail and Strike eagle without the zero stop... I get 24+MIL of travel. With Lapua Center-X I can consistently hit a 16" plate at 330y with just 16.8MIL of dial.
24mil should take me out to 420y and then 7 MIL of hold over to 31MIL and 500y...
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I would go with 50m/50 yards.
I also do all my ammo testing at 50. That will give you a good indication of what your gun really likes - then move out to 100. Most rimfire ammo will perform differently, and you may find that one round at 50 performs ok (but not as great as others), however when you go to 100, that same round that performed ok... might just be better than the others.
Use a decent inclined base, most seem to use 20 to 30 moa, but I have seen guys run 40 moa.
Unless you have significantly controlled conditions i.e. indoor, and maybe a machine rest or your comfortable to make repeatable shots at 100 yards from the prone position, I would go with a 50 yard zero, that way you know for sure your dead on, and any adjustments out to distance be done by dialling your turret, or through hold overs.
As others have mentioned from the rimfire PRS perspective, distances can be anywhere from 50 to 350-400. Depending on the stages and how they're set up, you might be dialling or you might be holding over. If zeroing at 50 makes you more confident that your gun is on, then you're already ahead of the game, especially when you need to trust your ballistic data.
On the topic of ballistic calculators (I use applied ballistic on an iphone), the biggest important factor is to truly verify your dope out to a couple hundred yards in even increments, and input your correction factor into the calculator. Your confidence in longer distance shots will sky-rocket, and at my last match I didn't go into any stages second-guessing my data. All of that will be far more important than worrying too much about whether you should do 50 or 100 yard zero. Remember too, any good match will provide both the target distances in meters and yards.
Cheers
I also do all my ammo testing at 50. That will give you a good indication of what your gun really likes - then move out to 100. Most rimfire ammo will perform differently, and you may find that one round at 50 performs ok (but not as great as others), however when you go to 100, that same round that performed ok... might just be better than the others.
Use a decent inclined base, most seem to use 20 to 30 moa, but I have seen guys run 40 moa.
Unless you have significantly controlled conditions i.e. indoor, and maybe a machine rest or your comfortable to make repeatable shots at 100 yards from the prone position, I would go with a 50 yard zero, that way you know for sure your dead on, and any adjustments out to distance be done by dialling your turret, or through hold overs.
As others have mentioned from the rimfire PRS perspective, distances can be anywhere from 50 to 350-400. Depending on the stages and how they're set up, you might be dialling or you might be holding over. If zeroing at 50 makes you more confident that your gun is on, then you're already ahead of the game, especially when you need to trust your ballistic data.
On the topic of ballistic calculators (I use applied ballistic on an iphone), the biggest important factor is to truly verify your dope out to a couple hundred yards in even increments, and input your correction factor into the calculator. Your confidence in longer distance shots will sky-rocket, and at my last match I didn't go into any stages second-guessing my data. All of that will be far more important than worrying too much about whether you should do 50 or 100 yard zero. Remember too, any good match will provide both the target distances in meters and yards.
Cheers
Rounds that shoot well at 50 yards, but not at 100 are most likely caused by velocity issues one way or the other.
If it is supersonic, the projectile will be accurate only until it drops into the transonic velocity range, then it will start darting about and accuracy gets unpredictable past that point. You can see this occur through a decent scope.
The second velocity related problem would be a wide velocity spread which can affect barrel harmonics and that can affect point of impact, in addition to the obvious elevation differences between a fast or slow round.
As a general rule I would take sub sonic ammo with a low velocity spread and so-so close range accuracy, over ammo with good close range accuracy with a wide velocity spread. Obviously I prefer good accuracy and low velocity spread.
If it is supersonic, the projectile will be accurate only until it drops into the transonic velocity range, then it will start darting about and accuracy gets unpredictable past that point. You can see this occur through a decent scope.
The second velocity related problem would be a wide velocity spread which can affect barrel harmonics and that can affect point of impact, in addition to the obvious elevation differences between a fast or slow round.
As a general rule I would take sub sonic ammo with a low velocity spread and so-so close range accuracy, over ammo with good close range accuracy with a wide velocity spread. Obviously I prefer good accuracy and low velocity spread.
