28ga vs 20ga - for Hunting

Ahsan Ahmed

Ahsan Ahmed

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
156   0   0
I realize the particular topic brings out much debate.....no such intent here though with this thread :)

Considering the availability of Upland species and the hunting conditions and opportunities mostly presented (read Ontario), my 20s seem to get out more often than 12s. Strangely enough, my thoughts (ok, craving :D ) now seem to be straying towards a 28ga (likely a 686 SP).

In view of the fact that I have never used a 28ga, my question to folks who own and hunt with both 20/28 gauges.....what distinct/realistic advantage(s) - skipping discussions pertinent to square loads, shot strings etc - one may gain with using one in the field?

Many thanks,
 
I am a fan of the 28 gauge for clays, hunting small birds and preserve pheasant. I don't believe in any of those pursuits the 20 gauge has a meaningful advantage. My own experiments with a three gauge skeet set (20, 28, .410) proved to my satisfaction that recoil was the only thing the 20 gauge gave me more of than the 28.

The 28 gauge has disadvantages however. It isn't as flexible as the 20, ammo is harder to find and more expensive when you do. With 3" chambers, the 20 gauge can do just about everything including waterfowl. The 28 is available only in a few shot sizes and there is an absence of non-tox. If I didn't reload I probably wouldn't own a 28.

I don't own a 20 gauge currently. If I am chasing smaller birds with my 12 gauge sxs, I'll down load to 20 gauge shot payloads. I'm also wary of the 20 gauge having once come close to a 12/20 burst. If I inadvertently put a 28 gauge shell into a 12 gauge it just slips through and falls out of the muzzle.

The 28 gauge doesn't kick as much and is less tiring to shoot. It hits targets whether clays or birds within 40 yards equally well as the 20. It is the very best gauge to introduce a female or young shooter.

I don't usually compare the 28 to the 20. If I need 20 gauge performance I can get it out of my 12. I consider the 28 in the context of the .410 and in that comparison the performance of the 28 gauge is superior in almost every regard. With a 12 and a 28 I have no particular need for either a 20 or .410.
 
I have never fired a 28 Gauge but at our skeet and trap club several of the members have and others have recently acquired 28 gauges. I must say I am quite impressed as to the number and qty. of real good breaks the members consistently achieve. I also see several of the members using those real short insert tubes in larger gauge guns(I am not talking about the full length tubes just those really short tubes) Again it is amazing the number and quality of breaks achieved. The 28 seems to be quite a little shooter in the right hands. I myself love my 20's.
Wayne
 
Last edited:
Claybuster nailed it for you ...

Owned and shot both at Sporting, 5 Stand, Skeet and lots of Upland Game,
however only used the 20 on Waterfowl ... primarily decoying birds and a little jump shooting on beaver ponds - when lead was still permitted. The 28 would have worked for those situations too, but just never got the chance to use it.

The biggest advantage of a 28 for Upland work is generally "weight" and balance ... they tend to be a bit of a lighter gun to carry, and they seem to be easier to get into action more quickly. To that end, I strongly prefer 28" barrels - anything shorter seems to be "whippy" and has a very uneven swing. I've found no distinct advantage or disadvantage between the two as to their "on-game" performance on grouse, woodcock, pheasant, huns, dove, quail or chukar however. The Sporting Clays load of 3/4 oz. works great for everything but pheasant ... ditch parrots, 6's work much better.

One still has to be careful about mixing shells ... a 28 ga. will slip down well past the 20 ga. forcing cones in a lot of 20 ga. guns. Fortunately, 20's are
almost all "yellow" and 28's aren't. It pays to check your pockets & shell bags thoroughly before starting out.

If you opt for a 28, better get used to ordering your shells and buying them
in case lots, well before the season.
 
I have owned, shot skeet and hunted ruffed grouse with both the 20 and 28 guages. I have not found there to be any ballistic nor practical disadvantage of the 28 in either situation. However, when it came to ammo, huge disadvantage in price and availability. The only load I could find were Federal3/4 ounce copper plated # 6 in a high brass case. I have always liked to shoot target ammo in 7-1/2 pellet size with the 12 ga for ruffies. The 20 lets me do so in 7/8 loads for not much more money.

Tim.
 
Ahsan Ahmed said:
I realize the particular topic brings out much debate.....no such intent here though with this thread :)

Considering the availability of Upland species and the hunting conditions and opportunities mostly presented (read Ontario), my 20s seem to get out more often than 12s. Strangely enough, my thoughts (ok, craving :D ) now seem to be straying towards a 28ga (likely a 686 SP).

In view of the fact that I have never used a 28ga, my question to folks who own and hunt with both 20/28 gauges.....what distinct/realistic advantage(s) - skipping discussions pertinent to square loads, shot strings etc - one may gain with using one in the field?

Many thanks,
Click to expand...

28 gauge won't kill a Texas lawyer. Not sure what good it's for.

*ducks, runs, hides*
 
20 vs 28

Hi -- you have raised an interesting question. The availability of .28 ga shells seems to be on the increase lately. I have used Fiocchi nickel plated 6 and 7.5 (in 7/8ths of an oz) and Winchester 1 oz loads in number 6 to great success on pheasants (preserve birds). The reason that wild birds are not recomended (especially late season) is that they flush at a much greater range, requiring longer shots. This is where the .28 has limitations.

The 28 seems to pattern a bit better (and this is the conventional wisdom on it) than either the 20 or the 12 ga. Also, the shot string for a given payload tends to be shorter. This means that there is a greater percentage of shot on the target than in those other loads. However, due to the overall reduced payload (1 oz is the upper limit) the pattern will start to get thin at 30 yards (3/4 oz) and 40 yards (1 oz). Number 6 pellets will kill at this range, but with a thin pattern, the probability of that hit is low.

Personally, I feel that with 1 oz loads, there is enough overlap with a 12 ga. that a 20 is not needed (although I am a huge proponent of owning lots of shotguns in all gauges!!!)

Notox are available in bismuth, but you have to be rich to shoot lots of it. I am going to try a few boxes for opening week of duck season in SW Ontario. We get a lot of green wing teal and 20 yard decoying mallard in that week. Should be a riot. After that though it is back to the 12 ga auto, and kent fasteel. We use 1 1/8 fasteel here a lot to great success on goose and ducks. Note that there is only 1/8 oz more shot than the winchester 1 oz .28 ga. We take geese at 40 yards plus with this load.

The website below has a great number of articles on sub 12 ga guns.

http://www.billhanusbirdguns.com/index.html
 
Welcome! Thanks for the input.....

lockeman500 said:
Personally, I feel that with 1 oz loads, there is enough overlap with a 12 ga. that a 20 is not needed (although I am a huge proponent of owning lots of shotguns in all gauges!!!)
Click to expand...

I too have similar thoughts along those lines. Hope to substitute one of my 20s for a 28 without causing myself too much (mental) anguish in the process :)

I note that you are from SW Ontario.....assuming that you also hunt the Hullett?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom