2x2 or 2x4 walls for 3Gun/IPSC?

Rugerman

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I hope this is the proper section for this question. Please move if not.

I have been assigned the job of building a number of walls for our club. Going to give 3 Gun a whirl. I have seen a number of plans and ways to mount them. Will probably use square tubing. That isn't the problem. What I can't decide is whether they should be made with 2x2's or 2x4's. Could anyone with knowledge of these things please give me the pros and cons of using either one. I have access to both, just need to know which is best overall.
Thanks.
 
2x2 are only 1-1/2 wide = light and crack if you hit the wrong spot with a nail

2x3 are good only if you get the ones made from one pc of wood ---- not many short pcs
 
We built ours out of 2X3s. Heavy enough to withstand some abuse, but not as heavy as 2X4s would have been. 2X2 would be a little flimsy if you were building anything wider than a couple of feet.
 
Thanks, guys. Can you still use the square tubing or is it too loose for 2x3’s? If not, what do you use?
 
2x2’s with horizontal and corner braces and plastic mesh works best.

Heard some of the guys here in a Ontario like using the 7mm black plastic mesh from a Mississauga manufacturer called Masternet Vexar. Was told a 100’ roll of 48” mesh ran a $1/ft.

Have to rebuild a bunch of our walls at the club and this is the stuff I plan to use.
 
I’ll throw out a few pics of some examples of the walls we’ve used here for Tac Rifle , same ones get pulled out for IDPA.
 

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A few more ... note the unimpressed look on the dummies face. Apperantly you’re not supposed to use non-combatants as shields as you advance ... meh.
 

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You should see how PoCo does their walls, very good set up there. Wish I grabbed pictures.

Their horizontal section starts lower, and ends lower, but the "feet" protrude from the top and bottom so they can be placed either way and be correct. I did not grab a picture, but they look like this |=|. It made them less heavy/top heavy than those at Chilliwack/TMSA, so much their bases didn't even need spikes (that I seen, pretty sure the bases had no holes) which were a great design as well, as every base allowed for multiple walls to be added at any angle (they used 3, 6" lengths of steel pipe welded together on a flat steel base).
 
That's TMSA from the last CASE course.

Don't overlook coroplast for making walls, target frames, etc.

I've seen it used in holders for walls in blind stages/to create visual blocks, but I would think as a barricade style wall it'd be at risk of moving out of place if some rubbed up against it. Very good for visual obstructions though, unlike most fenced walls.

*edit*
PoCo's reversible walls, couldn't find a pic -
 
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Did you use 2x2's for uprights and 2x4's for the cross pieces? Any chance I could get the dimensions for the bases (that you put the uprights in)?
I am toying with the idea of buying 2x4 metal tubing and welding some 2" wide bar metal on the tubing as feet. Anyone done that? An American website suggested it as you can join two walls with one base if you use 2x2 uprights.

Thanks for the pics and ideas.
 
No pics, but a couple local ranges use 1/8" flat stock, 4" wide by 18" long (approx). In the middle, you can weld 8-10" long round tubing, that has an ID just big enough to hold a 2x2. If you weld three of those round pieces together, (like a cloverleaf), you can easily make "T" joints using three walls. Simple nylon straps at the top of the wall pieces secure it for a match. The 1/8" flat stock isn't a tripping hazard.

To build each wall piece, all you need are 2x2s. Just GLUE and screw plywood corner gussets in place. The glue is important. Then staple your fencing on top. I made some 8' sections out of only 2x2 and they hold together fine.

Lots of ways to do this. :)
 
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