30-30 classic Lee loader and cast bullets

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crosman177

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I want to get into simple reloading and possibly casting. Are these compatible and what are the steps to making it work properly? Do I need to use a bullet resizer and lube or just cast and tumble lube? Is it necessary to have a gas check? With the lee hand loader do you need to worry about trimming cases? Please educate me.

Shooting in single shot break action, savage carbine bolt and possibly mossberg lever.

Thankyou.
 
Should work. Sizer. Depends on what size your bullet mold throws. Lee tumble lube is pretty much all you need. Gas check for anything over 1200 fps or so. Always need to maintain case size. At some point you will need to trim.

Another option is to powder coat. Since it adds to the dimension of the bullet you most likely need to size them.
 
That's exactly what I doing now, the problem is if you tries to put a lead bullet unsized the bullet is impossible to put it a the good height , the hole of the tool is to tight, the only cast bullet I can use is a 90 gr semiwadcutter sized at 0.311" the bullet is so short it don't stuck on the cone of the tools. It's a super load for plinking with 10 gr of trail boss powder may good to with some shootgun powder too. It,s run around 1100 fps thats good because this kind of bullet dont have the recess for gazcheck. if you need more info don't be shy to ask.
 
IMO, you will be trying to do too much with too little. Reloading on a budget is one thing, but not having tools for each step, just plain sucks.

I think shooting cast is enough of a challenge, no need to do it blindfolded as well.

Gas checks are a beginners friend, give you a jump start on shooting. 30-30 bullets are fairly inexpensive, not much saving unless you shoot lots.

LEE sells some inexpensive sizers, and they sell some pretty cheap entry level presses as well. Their entry breach lock loading press will do 30-30. they also sell a basic neck expanding tool.

Lots of reloaders started with a LEE Classic loader and a hammer, and most upgrade as soon as they can afford to.

A LEE Classic Loader will load accurate ammo, I've loaded 1/2 moa 222 Rem ammo with one. Instead of a hammer I used my arbor press, but even a cheap one of those costs more than a LEE Breech press.

It's been my experience, a beginner needs better tools than a seasoned veteran, to do as nice a job.
 
I recommend reading a reloading book
Lee's "Modern Reloading" has a section on cast loading
That will "educate" you better than a forum can
 
I reload .30-30 using a LEE cast 170gr Gas Checked bullet sized to .309. Case mouth should be flared a bit to prevent lead shaving. I use IMR 3031 mostly and load as per jacketed bullet data.
Due to the nature of the cartridge headspacing on the rim (vice shoulder), pressure and the lever action, cases tend to stretch more, so trimming is essential in lever actions. My bolt rifles with similar cases (7.62X54R & .303Brit) require the trimming also.

And I completely agree with Nitro & LegIOn
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liAvzCShQLQ

You can load high quality .30-30 with your Lee Loader just fine.
I did and many others did, and many still do.
The above link takes you to a You-Tube video about simple low-cost loading .30-30 and casting bullets for it.
The video shows an electric lead melter but you can use a cast iron lead pot, casting ladle, and a Coleman stove or hot plate instead.
The author of the video uses an inexpensive press, but the information is still useful.

If you follow the instructions in the Lee Loader box, use the dipper, charge info card, and one of the powders listed (IMR-3031 is great) it's very easy.
That is for factory jacketed bullets however. Cast Bullets will require more equipment obviously.
If you stick to the powders listed and use the dipper, then you don't need a loading manual.

The Lee Loader only neck sizes brass, however, and leaves the body of the case as is. That means that brass fired in one rifle will probably only fit that rifle after loading, and may be sticky in another rifle's chamber. Chambers vary slightly in size. So you would need to segregate your brass for each rifle.

You will need a case trimmer after several firings, and lee sells a very simple and effective hand tool and case mouth chamfer tool.
Very inexpensive yet quality little hand tools.

You will obviously need a bullet mold suitable for .30-30 with a flat point, probably 170 grain or 150 grain.
The Lee 2 cavity ones will work fine, and are inexpensive.
A gas check bullet will work best and that's probably all that you will find these days.
Lee also sells a bullet sizing die kit that also seat gas checks, but you need a reloading press to use it.
This is the least expensive and effective bullet sizing option, but works perfectly well.
The bullets are tumble-lubed with Alox liquid lube that comes with the kit and then rammed through the die.
That means either buying a new press, or finding an old one that uses modern shell holders at a gun show.
A Lee el-cheapo C press will work at about $50.00 new. But these are pretty weak in strength and you could probably find a decent old O press like an RCBS JR2 or JR3 (Junior) for 50 or 60 bucks.
But, if you buy a press, you might as well buy a set of dies and also use it to load your ammo, instead of the Lee Loader.

Although, you could use the bullet sizing die alone by clamping it in a vise with soft jaws, and then tap the lubed bullets with gas checks through it using a small diameter steel or brass rod.
That would eliminate the need for the press and work just as well.

Cast bullet hand loads will also require using a lesser powder charge, and lower velocities.
Lee also sells a set of plastic dippers with a sliding charge chart for using them with many different powders and loads.
You should at least read through the .30-30 section of a loading manual for appropriate cast bullet loads.
Or check out various cast bullet forums on-line and look at the many .30-30 loading videos on You-Tube.

You should also learn as much as you can about bullet casting.
I recommend the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, which is also a cast bullet loading manual.
 
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I appreciate all the replies. I currently live in a rental and do not have space to setup a true loading bench that's why I am leaning towards the hand load kit. I have the lee furnace and probably 200 lbs of lead sheeting from my roofing trade. Plan is to make up the ingots and find a mold that will fit my needs and not need too much work. I have the lee dipper set and lots of brass. Current experience is helping my friend out with his slugs and mec Jr press. I want to move into centre fire now.

I realize that this is bare bones idea and have watched tons of videos and have a relative idea. I know I will need to get the above books to figure out proper formula of loads and case lengths. That is not a problem. I am prepared to get the hand
tools, scales and callipers.

Main hurdle is, can this be done with the lee loader kit, I realize case may need trimming but that's small tools. Will powder coating substitute the need for a bullet sizer and gas checks. Main purpose is to plink and possible set up hunting loads and to enjoy the hobby.

What is a good mold for my scenario and rifles I am using (hinge, bolt and lever) and is it important if the mold has a gas check or not? Hoping to be able just powder coat and to stay away from installing them but am not fully certain on the sizing and gas check importance.

Thanks for not taking a chunk out of me. Gotta start some where. :)
 
I think you're going to need a press if you're going to load cast bullets. You need to flare the necks before loading cast bullets at a minimum. I also find it useful for the 30-30 to resize with a .311 expander and then to flare (if your rifles will chamber such rounds - mine do).

I'd get a single stage - or even better, a Lee Cast Turret press - and set it up on one of those "Workmate" folding work tables. Tuck it in a closet folded up when not in use. Weigh it down with lead ingots when you're using it.

Or, start the way I did (after I got past using the Lee Loaders, which do work ok) - bolt your press onto a piece of 2x6 and then clamp the 2x6 to a sturdy table to use it. I loaded at my kitchen table for a few weeks this way. It works.
 
As I said, it can be done with the Lee Loader, either with jacketed or cast bullets.
The only extra step would be to flare or bell the case mouths separately, using something like a convenient size of taper punch or something similar, tapped lightly with a mallet.
This allows starting a cast bullet without shaving lead.
The Lee Loader has provision to roll crimp the case mouth, so mouth belling will work with it.
Some of the pistol caliber Lee Loaders come with a mouth belling tool.

However, if you are prepared to invest in an assortment of tools anyway, using an inexpensive aluminum press might make good sense.
While I understand that you don't have room to set up a reloading bench, you can improvise one by bolting your press to the end of a board, or a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood screwed and glued together. Say 10" wide X 3 1/2 feet long.
This allows your press to be C-clamped to a kitchen table at both ends of the board or piece of plywood.
Your table might need some weight piled on it to hold it down during resizing, but it would work, and you could store the press in a closet or under your bed when not in use.

I once successfully improvised a reloading stand by bolting 2X4 "feet" to a small free standing hardwood bookshelf, after removing the screw-in legs, when I lived in an apartment.
The "feet" extended forward about 16" to counteract the downward force of the press lever during resizing.
I placed my feet on these extensions to hold it down during the upstroke. It worked fine.
I also did my bullet casting on the balcony. LOL

Suitable bullet molds made by Lee are C309-150-F (90366 2-cavity) and C309-170-F (90368 2-cavity).
Both are flat-point designs suitable for lever actions, weighing 150 and 170 grains respectively.
These ARE gas-check designs, but that's all that seem available for .30 caliber rifle now.
The Lee molds are the easiest to find locally, and while aluminum, will give good service if properly handled.
And, Lyman and RCBS don't seem to offer any plain base designs in these weight ranges any more.

Gas checks allow you to shoot at reasonable velocities for rifle, like 1600 FPS or greater with harder bullets.
You will want that for hunting anyway.
They are easy to seat using the aforementioned Lee sizing die.
Just pop them on and push or tap the bullet through the die and it is crimped on.
You can order gas checks from Gator Gas Checks, who make them in Canada.
Without using gas checks, accuracy with these bullets may not be great, and you would need to keep velocities pretty low.
You need to size to about .002" over bore diameter, so .310 or .311" would probably work.
These die kit sizes are available from Lee, but you might have to mail order them from Higginson Powders in Ontario.



I know nothing about powder coating, so I won't venture any opinion there.
 
crosman177 said:
I have the lee furnace and probably 200 lbs of lead sheeting from my roofing trade.
Click to expand...

That's a pretty soft lead you have. Perhaps 10BHN.
This will limit the velocities you can reach.
Do read the Lee book on how to match the pressures to the hardness of the lead.

...and don't melt dirty lead in the casting pot...
 
legi0n said:
That's a pretty soft lead you have. Perhaps 10BHN.
This will limit the velocities you can reach.
Do read the Lee book on how to match the pressures to the hardness of the lead.

...and don't melt dirty lead in the casting pot...
Click to expand...

True enough. Those old roof jacks contain an amazing amount of crap that you have to skim off.
And, the lead is very soft. Soft enough to use in muzzle loaders.
But not actually pure lead either. The lead balls darken but don't turn black like pure lead.
Too soft for .30 caliber rifle bullets.
 
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