I have inherited a 303 and a full box of Sierra 303 cal. .311 dia 180 grain spitzer bullets. Does anyone have a recipe for this gun and bullets? It shoots factory loads poorly. And looks like I would only get 2 loads from the brass. I don't think I would take it hunting just to poke holes in paper.
303 and a box of bullets
- Thread starter jessie01
- Start date
My wife has recipes for many kinds of culinary goodies, but I never heard of a recipe for a 303!
I believe you must be referring to loading data for a 303.
You will likely get a goodly number of replies, telling you seventeen different powders and amounts to use, plus seat deep, seat shallow, full length resize, don't full length resize, etc., to improve the accuracy of your rifle.
However, if it shoots factory loads poorly, it will most likely shoot any of your handloads just as poorly.
An old 303, presumably a Lee Enfield, that distorts the brass of factory ammo fired in it, to the extent that you doubt it would only be good for about two reloadings, is not worth fooling around with.
I believe you must be referring to loading data for a 303.
You will likely get a goodly number of replies, telling you seventeen different powders and amounts to use, plus seat deep, seat shallow, full length resize, don't full length resize, etc., to improve the accuracy of your rifle.
However, if it shoots factory loads poorly, it will most likely shoot any of your handloads just as poorly.
An old 303, presumably a Lee Enfield, that distorts the brass of factory ammo fired in it, to the extent that you doubt it would only be good for about two reloadings, is not worth fooling around with.
Plus, depending on how much you know about 303's, if it's deforming the brass pretty badly, especially around the base of the cartridge you may want to have the headspace checked on the gun. If it's an enfield that's a pretty common problem.
Dominion Link
CGN frequent flyer
Check out the website "303british.com". There's lots of great info on the site and the fellow who runs the site is very helpful too.
Campfireprophet
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Before loading check the headspace. then slug the bore.The .311 bullets mite be to small. This could be the problem.
While i am not a big fan of the SMLE, I like the cartridge, and i believe your headspace problem, sorry...not yours'... your guns' can be rectified by switching diff. bolt heads...some folks on here are far more knowledgeable on the SMLE then I, especially Dantforth.......where are you Dave??
Without you explaining in what way the fired brass was distorted, or without a picture, I will go along that the most likely cause was too much head space. And, as pointed out, Lee Enfield bolts come with a choice of three (I think that is the number) of different length heads that unscrew off the bolt. These are numbered, so you know what size is on and to shorten head space, you use the next longest head.
However, when all is said and done, if the rifle shoots poorly with factory ammo, I don't think correcting head space would improve it's accuracy. So, if it's accuracy is not acceptable, I would not fool around with it. Lee Enfields are advertised on the used market so I would blow $75, and maybe plus shipping, for another, and try that one.
However, when all is said and done, if the rifle shoots poorly with factory ammo, I don't think correcting head space would improve it's accuracy. So, if it's accuracy is not acceptable, I would not fool around with it. Lee Enfields are advertised on the used market so I would blow $75, and maybe plus shipping, for another, and try that one.
"...Lee Enfield bolts come with a choice of three..." Four. 0 to 3. Rumour has it that there are 4's kicking around too. And that's only for a No. 4 Rifle. No numbers on a No. 1 bolt head. And they're not interchangeable.
"...inherited a 303..." Which model?(where's the rear sight?) Sporterized(bubba'd) or full military?
"...only get 2 loads from the brass..." You having any problems opening the bolt after firing? Difficult extractions if you can open the bolt? The primers severely flattened or backing out? Case head separations? These are indications of bad headspace.
Like Campfireprophet says, have the headspace checked before you do anything. Especially shooting it. Thousands of the rifles(both bubba'd and full military) have been assembled out of parts bins with zero QC. Even matching serial numbers (on the back of the bolt handle and the receiver) is no guarantee the bolt head is original to that rifle. Especially if it's a bubba'd rifle. The ease(cost and finding another bolt head) of fixing bad headspace depends on which Lee-Enfield you have.
You only need a No-Go and a Field. The bolt should not completely close on a No-Go. However, if it does, try the Field. If it completely closes on a Field, the headspace is excessive and the rifle is not safe to shoot with any ammo.
With a No. 1 Mk III, you need a handful of bolt heads(at $11.90US each from Gunparts. $20Cdn each from Marstar) to try with the guages until you find one that works.
With a No. 4, you can try the next number up with guages. You may need the number higher than that though. 2's and 3's are hard to come by. Marstar has 2's though. There's no way of telling without using the guages.
If the headspace is bad and you have a No. 4 with a #3 bolt head, you can try a longer bolt body. $39 from Marstar. Measure the one you have with a vernier calipre and ask for a longer one. Don't know if they'll do that though. Won't cost you to ask.
You can try the same thing with a No. 1. $25 from Marstar.
If the headspace is ok, slug the bore. Hammer a cast .30 calibre bullet or soft lead fishing sinker of suitable size through the barrel, using a brass rod and a plastic mallet, preferably from the chamber end, then measure the bullet/sinker with a micrometer. That'll tell you the exact diameter of your barrel across the grooves.
Both models of Lee-Enfield can have barrel diameters between .311" and .315" and still be considered ok. Larger than .315" the barrel is shot out. Since you're getting poor accuracy with factory ammo(usually .311" or .312" diameter bullets), I'd suspect your barrel is over .312". Mind you, if the barrel is just poor, rusted or heavily worn rifling(hard to tell that by just looking. Enfields use shallow rifling. Look for sharp lands) slugging it won't make any difference. Neither will fixing the headspace.
Steve at .303british.com is making 200 grain .313" and .314" jacketed bullets for high side barreled Lee-Enfields. One thing at a time. Staring with checking the headspace. Have a smithy do it or spring for the $26US each from Brownell's and do it yourself.
"...inherited a 303..." Which model?(where's the rear sight?) Sporterized(bubba'd) or full military?
"...only get 2 loads from the brass..." You having any problems opening the bolt after firing? Difficult extractions if you can open the bolt? The primers severely flattened or backing out? Case head separations? These are indications of bad headspace.
Like Campfireprophet says, have the headspace checked before you do anything. Especially shooting it. Thousands of the rifles(both bubba'd and full military) have been assembled out of parts bins with zero QC. Even matching serial numbers (on the back of the bolt handle and the receiver) is no guarantee the bolt head is original to that rifle. Especially if it's a bubba'd rifle. The ease(cost and finding another bolt head) of fixing bad headspace depends on which Lee-Enfield you have.
You only need a No-Go and a Field. The bolt should not completely close on a No-Go. However, if it does, try the Field. If it completely closes on a Field, the headspace is excessive and the rifle is not safe to shoot with any ammo.
With a No. 1 Mk III, you need a handful of bolt heads(at $11.90US each from Gunparts. $20Cdn each from Marstar) to try with the guages until you find one that works.
With a No. 4, you can try the next number up with guages. You may need the number higher than that though. 2's and 3's are hard to come by. Marstar has 2's though. There's no way of telling without using the guages.
If the headspace is bad and you have a No. 4 with a #3 bolt head, you can try a longer bolt body. $39 from Marstar. Measure the one you have with a vernier calipre and ask for a longer one. Don't know if they'll do that though. Won't cost you to ask.
You can try the same thing with a No. 1. $25 from Marstar.
If the headspace is ok, slug the bore. Hammer a cast .30 calibre bullet or soft lead fishing sinker of suitable size through the barrel, using a brass rod and a plastic mallet, preferably from the chamber end, then measure the bullet/sinker with a micrometer. That'll tell you the exact diameter of your barrel across the grooves.
Both models of Lee-Enfield can have barrel diameters between .311" and .315" and still be considered ok. Larger than .315" the barrel is shot out. Since you're getting poor accuracy with factory ammo(usually .311" or .312" diameter bullets), I'd suspect your barrel is over .312". Mind you, if the barrel is just poor, rusted or heavily worn rifling(hard to tell that by just looking. Enfields use shallow rifling. Look for sharp lands) slugging it won't make any difference. Neither will fixing the headspace.
Steve at .303british.com is making 200 grain .313" and .314" jacketed bullets for high side barreled Lee-Enfields. One thing at a time. Staring with checking the headspace. Have a smithy do it or spring for the $26US each from Brownell's and do it yourself.
I found those bullets to be very accurate in my P-14 303.
Headspace questions in a SMLE evoke many postings. But two simple things can add life to your brass,light loads and neck sizing.The Lee Collet die is the best for that.And do learn how to check for head separation with a paper clip.
Headspace questions in a SMLE evoke many postings. But two simple things can add life to your brass,light loads and neck sizing.The Lee Collet die is the best for that.And do learn how to check for head separation with a paper clip.
I've been reloading .303 for several years now and I worked up a nice target load for cast 180Gr. bullet with a gas check. I slugged my bore and a .312 bullet works best for me. You definitely need to slug the bore or you'll get your bullets flopping around all over the place and key holing the target. Your .311's might be a tad to small but you won't know until you slug that bore.
Anyway, back to the magic formula. This is for low recoil and target shooting at 50yds because that the longest range we have. Between 10.5gr. up to 13 gr. of Unique. I worked up my loads at .5gr intervals and in my case 11.5 grains gives me excellent groups. There are several other Lee Enfields I shoot against and they all shoot the in the same ballpark with the same bullet somewhere between 10.5 and 13 grains of Unique. Its also very inexpensive this way and the brass lasts forever and I have never had to trim a case yet, although I keep checking just in case.
Anyway, back to the magic formula. This is for low recoil and target shooting at 50yds because that the longest range we have. Between 10.5gr. up to 13 gr. of Unique. I worked up my loads at .5gr intervals and in my case 11.5 grains gives me excellent groups. There are several other Lee Enfields I shoot against and they all shoot the in the same ballpark with the same bullet somewhere between 10.5 and 13 grains of Unique. Its also very inexpensive this way and the brass lasts forever and I have never had to trim a case yet, although I keep checking just in case.
