303 Br New brass experiences- RESULTS

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Ron R

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I'll be purchasing some new brass for reloading my 303 for this fall's hunting supply.

I have read some opinions on the reloading forum but I'd like to hear from some guys who reload for the 303 Br regarding their experiences with case life vs. different manufacturers. (Ample change in fired casings.) It's between Remington and Winchester. What do you prefer and why?

Some history...My results at the range last year were not good at all and I am trying to nail the process down to results which are at least consistent and repeatable. To eliminate some of the variables in my process I have decided to pitch the mixed bag of casings and switch to Hornady 150's instead of Speer's.

FYI - Lee Loader, Re-15, Federal primers and I use an electronic scale to audit powder weight.

Any suggestions for a suitable weight to fire form the casings using Re-15?

Regards
Ron R
 
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I wouldn't worry about fireforming the cases, I'd start working-up a hunting load. You'll probably get better results seating the bullet as long as you can get away with. The mag will probably be your limit; but check your thraot length to be sure.
 
there isn't a dramatic increase in accuracy from full length sized brass to neck sized brass. Just work up your load and see how she shoots.
My preference for brass is Herters and IVI.
 
I have some Winchester from couple of boxs of CanTire cheap,16 loading now.I'm very impressed,best life I have had with any brass. But I use a Collet die and it's P-14.
 
If the headspace is O.K. and you are using moderate loads you should get better case life than 3 uses.....M.T. Chambers has once fired brass for sale in this and many other cals., same headstamp!
 
The biggest reason for the brass early failures is because of the design and strength differences between the Lee Enfield or SMLE and the P-14 actions. As noted in the Speer Reloading Manual # 10, "The action of the SMLE is not particularly rigid. Thus maximum loads will likely produce case stretching and short case life."
 
ring 'em if you like, they supply heavy cast bullets for hunting, target, BPCR, hard to get styles and sizes, cowboy action, etc.
 
I'm reloading for my P14, and my sportsterized #4, and so far I'm around 8 to 10 reloads per brass, and so far no separations of case heads...yet. And I couldn't find a collet die so yes I'm full length resizing with my Lee dies.:(
 
Thanks guys.

Hitzy- Herters and IVI - where do I find Herters?

IVI - That's Imperial correct? I only know them as used factory loads. Is there resale for IVI that I don't know about?

Ben - thanks for M.T. chambers. I'll look into that.

Regards
Ron R
 
I cant remember the name of the Czech manufacturer of the ammo I bought at P&D, but those cases seem to have lasted me VERY long.

I only neck size about half to 3/4 of the neck and then check the length of the case with a case trimmer. I only size the neck just enough to hold the bullet in. The rest I leave alone unless for some reason it wont chamber.

This helps stop the brass from getting that stretch mark around the shoulder. Once you fire a casing the first time, its expanded to the exact dimensions of your chamber. I believe that repeated full length sizing causes the case to break down pretty quick judging by the ammount I remove when length trimming them sometimes. The angle of the shoulders just allows the brass to flow so much. That is the main reason the brass doesnt last.

I hear the .303 epps doesnt have this problem and you can just fire normal .303br loads through it to fire form the cases. Anyone try that?

Anywho, as far as virgin brass is concerned. I dont think its worth the money in my humbe opinion. I like winchester brass just fine. I would just buy the 180gr super Xs (Cheapy silver box) to hunt with and then save the cases. It really saves you money.

I also found I got the best results with the bullet seated so high it just touched the rifling when chambered. (You can check for this by easily. Seat a bullet very tall in a formed case. Then colour the bullet with a permanent marker and chamber it. Extract. You will see marks where the rifling rubbed off the ink. Seat the bullet a little deeper (Just a 1/2 to a 1/4 turn should do it) then try again. What worked for me was repeating this process intil the marks disapeared and then ajusting the seater something like an 8th or a 16th of a turn higher. This way the bullet was in contact with the rifling, but not engaged by it.

I dont know if any of this makes sense, but whatever I did, it worked. The lucky guy who bought my .303 should read this too because I was getting 1 to 1.5 inch groups at 100.
 
Calum,ask Higginson if you an buy just the collet die,it's worth the effort,not only is it easy on the the brass ,it's even easier on the reloader.There is no cleaning or lubing.
 
BabySeal said:
I also found I got the best results with the bullet seated so high it just touched the rifling when chambered. (You can check for this by easily. Seat a bullet very tall in a formed case. Then colour the bullet with a permanent marker and chamber it. Extract. You will see marks where the rifling rubbed off the ink. Seat the bullet a little deeper (Just a 1/2 to a 1/4 turn should do it) then try again. What worked for me was repeating this process intil the marks disapeared and then ajusting the seater something like an 8th or a 16th of a turn higher. This way the bullet was in contact with the rifling, but not engaged by it.

I dont know if any of this makes sense, but whatever I did, it worked. The lucky guy who bought my .303 should read this too because I was getting 1 to 1.5 inch groups at 100.
Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense. Not only did you give some insight but you gave me a simple technique to try.

Thanks a million!

I have got another question which I think was addressed in one of my previous posts but since I have got your attention I'd like to ask again but from the OAL perspective.

After about 4 or 5 rounds my fired casings have a collar of spent powder residue about a quarter inch in length from the neck rim. (My chamber was clean previously.) Can OAL deficiencies cause this?

Some other info
- factory Hornady 150s and older imperial 180's gave much more consistent groups.


Regards
Ron R
 
Ron R said:
Thanks guys.

Hitzy- Herters and IVI - where do I find Herters?

IVI - That's Imperial correct? I only know them as used factory loads. Is there resale for IVI that I don't know about?

Ben - thanks for M.T. chambers. I'll look into that.

Regards
Ron R
Click to expand...

Higginsons for the Herters.
 
Usually, if the load doesn't expand the neck brass enough to give a good seal, gases can laminate at the neck and leave a residue. This happens all the time with small charges.
Sometimes, it can be a sign of brass hardening; annealing the neck and shoulders of that brass will cure the problem and also avoid split necks.
PP.
 
Your lack of accuracy in previous efforts may have been caused by the mixed brass you were using - different case volumes, different pressures, etc. Partial resizing aids brass life, and is ideal if you intend to shoot it in more than one rifle. Seating the bullet longer is also beneficial for accuracy.
I've tried various powders, but found RE 15 to be the best. Hornady 150/180 SP's are also my preferred. I've had good luck with both Remington and Win brass. I had difficulties with the Herters from Higginsons - approx half the brass did not have a relief cut in front of the rim, causing feed difficulties in LE's...
You may find that your sported 303 just isnt a shooter - poor bedding, oversize barrel. etc. Just pick up another rather than burning up ammo. FWIW - I've found that sported 303's shoot best with some barrel support at the forend.
 
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cosmic said:
Your lack of accuracy in previous efforts may have been caused by the mixed brass you were using - different case volumes, different pressures, etc. Partial resizing aids brass life, and is ideal if you intend to shoot it in more than one rifle. Seating the bullet longer is also beneficial for accuracy.
I've tried various powders, but found RE 15 to be the best. Hornady 150/180 SP's are also my preferred. I've had good luck with both Remington and Win brass. I had difficulties with the Herters from Higginsons - approx half the brass did not have a relief cut in front of the rim, causing feed difficulties in LE's...
You may find that your sported 303 just isnt a shooter - poor bedding, oversize barrel. etc. Just pick up another rather than burning up ammo. FWIW - I've found that sported 303's shoot best with some barrel support at the forend.
Click to expand...

Good insight. I think with these changes I should have some success.

The interesting thing was when I first got the rifle it was stripped down, cleaned, and refinished. At the range, 5 rounds (after it was sighted in) were within a 2" diameter @ 100 yds using Remington 180's. That's what got my attention. At that point it seemed like I did have a shooter.

Factory ammo gives good success. Steve's 303 site states that this rifle should like heavier bullets rather than lighter which may explain the good initial results. My game at this point is deer on the prairies and so my efforts have been centered around the 150's. I've seen it a couple of times from this rifle and now since I've got the reloading bug I am trying to reproduce similar results.

Interesting comment about the poor bedding and barrel support. I read that on the 303 sight as well. The barrel support is something that I will try.

The length has not been investigated yet...my concern is feeding. At times it has been difficult to feed the next round which may require some different investigation. I've stayed away from round nose because those hung up the most. (I will take the accuracy over the feeding any day.)

To most it may seem like to much effort...but I don't chase away easily.

Thanks and Regards
Ron R
 
Results ----

Finally got out last Saturday to the SWF.

In addition to the new components I shimmed the fore stock as suggested.;)

My first 3 shots didn't hit my target at 100yds - a result of tweaking the stock so off to the 50 yd I went.:redface: I wasn't prepared for that and did not bring nearly enough rounds.

It took a few scope adjustments but I think I am on my way. I believe I found the right OAL but I am not positive.

I plan to correct @50 with the same load and then see where I am at @100 then increase the amount of powder.

(Hey PP, the powder rings have virtually disappeared.)

What you are looking at is a mostly my loads with a few factory rounds to verify my "loading accuracy." There has been steady improvement along the way.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards
Ron R

(My first picture post...please advise if it doesn't work)


http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p221/303Ron/r0003.jpg
 
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