303 no1 frusteration.. A Group #47

WhelanLad

WhelanLad

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Gents, i love this 303, Ruger 1, but god damn, i hate it...

its frusterating, its not accurate at best, im going to try work up one load for the 174 gr Woodleighs and Varget OR possibly 2206h, if i fail to do so Im borderline over it-

I wanna rebarrel it-

Do you rebore them or just rebarrel it?
when i rebarrel do i need to consider the ejecter is set up for a Rimmed round and preferably keep the 'next' cartridge inline with that or there abouts?

Do i get it bored open a little more than .312 to say .323 ? for 325 projectiles or go to .338 an have wider selection? what do i then do with the chamber? 338-303 possible? can i get dies? can you get dies? how much?


Do i just rebarrel to a "Rimmed" #(mm) X ?? chamber of preference and ease of compnents etc?


i mightof thrown this around before but lets talk about it, im going to test this , this remaining of the week and if a failure, sitting it in the back of the safe and potentially pulling the scope off it for a complete nother day-

or try get things rolling in a re-ba?-bo? an go with it.

Thank you
Rhys
 
Gatehouse said:
Before you get drastic with it, look up ways to accurate a #1. Often it's just some pushing and shoving
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hey mate-

yeh for sure, frusterated post i guess.!

i just "free floated " my barrel with use of a piece of rubber in form of o ring around the screw.. i will see if that does anything. as prior ther was 100% contact, sides an under.
 
blargon said:
I thought that run of No.1 303 Brit came with a .308 bore?
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haha this must be a stir the pot post forsure---- ha ha , some are roumered to be .313 my man.... an some moreso excessive..


i shot the load i been using for past 7 months, 150gr sierras, they dont 'group' a hoot, but do work on game, i keep shots under 200 due to the accuracy issues...... would be nice to utilise for full range
 
Backcountryal said:
The No 1's in 303 are notoriously inaccurate, haven't heard of one yet that will group under 2.5moa
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i know right, this is what makes me clear headedly, think, why Fk around anuy more..................... rebarrel it, cut loses... go hunting.

2.5 is OK for me lol, i would use that LOL.

i will see how tomorow goes with 43,43.5 and 44gr load charges to try. which is well an truely into 308 range.... if this doesnt get the projies hot an close the gap at the base or just have the vibration node tighten up.... il be pissed lol
 
Mine is well under the 2.5 moa, you have to work at it with No 1s. Do you miss game or just don’t like the look of your targets? BL-C2 and 180gr Sierra’s work in mine, not a target rifle but more than accurate enough at 250 yards for game.
 
Backcountryal said:
The No 1's in 303 are notoriously inaccurate, haven't heard of one yet that will group under 2.5moa
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Well then... I need to buy a lottery ticket, because I have had three of them and they were all accurate to under 1.5" @ 100 yards, and one of them was consistently 1/2" -3/4"... all with the same 150 SP load.

OP - PM inbound.
 
Peecos said:
Mine is well under the 2.5 moa, you have to work at it with No 1s. Do you miss game or just don’t like the look of your targets? BL-C2 and 180gr Sierra’s work in mine, not a target rifle but more than accurate enough at 250 yards for game.
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Good point dude. I shoot a few game with it and often am the guy saying "only needs to hit the first one right" or "only need one" in regard to its inaccuracy..... i use it typically walking in close range , but wanna use it more as a 250-300m capable gun.... im not conifdent to do so as is, with a under 2 inch would be better.

dont miss too many of the bigger deer, the smaller ones sometimes get 'lucky'.,, Mostly dont like the look of the targets- i'm going back to just shooting 2 rounds.. Cold. to test for hunting accuracy.

Do you think powder is guna be that drastic of a difference? example, i only have ADI powder here, 2206H and 2208varget that work.....

Whats your Zero or poi at 100m?
 
Did a well performing rifle suddenly go bad? Or is this an unfamiliar rifle that just won't do as expected? I have ZERO experience with Ruger No.1 rifles, and initially read this post as a .303BR SMLE No.1. But, there are questions because from memory the Ruger No.1 is not a lost cause at longer range.

Is the bore on the loose side of the tolerance specification? If so, change from a .308 to a .311 or .312 dia bullet. The commercial loaded ammunition will always tend to be small to avoid overpressures. There are plenty of off-the-shelf lead moulds for bullets in as many colours and configurations as there are whisky types.

Is the rifle as noisy as a rattle can spray bomb? If so, snug up the screws. Shim the gaps. Rebed the contacts.
 
If you rebarrel it why not rebarrel it to 303brit again but this time with a premium barrel.It would allow you to put a longer barrel on it if you desired and express sights as well giving it more of the old school look
 
chasseur said:
If you rebarrel it why not rebarrel it to 303brit again but this time with a premium barrel.It would allow you to put a longer barrel on it if you desired and express sights as well giving it more of the old school look
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mm fair call, an witha .308 barrel...!? or wouldnt need to if premium, it would be .312
 
Woodleigh did not shoot nearly as well in my Ruger as my other cup and cord bullets , but mine is s McGowan barrel not s factory Ruger.
I have used various methods of accurizing No.1's and mist work well if the barrel is good .
The .270 I am getting ready- barreled was shot out however so new barrel it is In 280!:cool:
As far as the chamber goes , it is simply an exctractor change if modification. No biggy for gunsmith .
Cat
 
I am on my 3rd Ruger No. 1. At least 20 years ago, lots being written about their accuracy (or lack of it) - there were several "tuning" steps an owner could do. My first was really happy to get a dab of epoxy at very front end of the forearm - a bit of "up pressure" there, with clear air around the rest of the barrel, right back to the receiver. My second one needed some filing on the rear of the fore arm - theory was that you do not want that wood "hard pressed" against the front of the receiver. Several "gizmo's" being sold to allow a screw to exert up pressure at the fore arm mounting screw - I never used one, but did install an o-ring under one front action screw. My third one is just fine the way it came out of the box - attached a Leupold scope with the Ruger rings and it was good to go. Have read, but not seen, that some came with the quarter rib needing a few swipes with file to get longitudinal clearance; also some were modifying the rib mounting holes to "oblong" - again, theory was that it expanded with heat at different rate than did the barrel. Someone wrote they are very cool looking, but should expect to do lots of fussing to get the best out of them - apparently similar to some women, cars and motorcycles, so I have been told...
 
Mine is zeroed at 2” high at 100 for a 250 yard hoh (hold on hair). Easy 1.5 moa if I do my part. I’ve found with all I’ve had they are sensitive to the position of the front bag, best to have your hand on the forearm, hand on the bag or large soft bag. I haven’t had any issues getting No 1s to shoot but they will show a preference for what they like, after that just shoot them and leave it alone. Just my 2c.
 
trim your 303 british brass to 1.900 inches, lube it up and run it into a 35 remington full length die, if you like what you see, order a .358 barrel blank and have a smith rebarrel it to 35 remington rimmed
 
Ruger, for some unknown reason, chose to make the barrels .313-314 gr groove diameter. Nonetheless, my first choice for a bullet would be the .3115 Sierra 180. You can push these to 2600 easily in the Number One.
Rugers should have from five to seven pounds of upward pressure at the tip and the fore arm must fit the barrel OD.
Make certain the buttstock is not loose. I do find them to shoot best when held consistently. I got my first Number One in 1971 and I've never had any trouble getting them to shoot.
 
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