.303 Savage brass ?

I am currently making them out of 220 Swift.

There are some web articles on making them out of 30/30 but I have not tried them.
 
I am currently making them out of 220 Swift.
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Since the 220 swift rim is far thinner than a 303 Savage rim, how do you insure proper headspacing? Do you use the shoulder or do you have a way to bump up the Swift rim to .063"?

I've heard of some using 303 Brit which has a slightly larger head diameter and rim diameter but other wise suitable. Full length resize the brass using a heavy - really powerful - press and I would imagine lots of high pressure lube. And then trim neck and turn the rims to .505 dia.
 
Here what I go by except that I use three intermediate expander balls 6, 6.5 and 7 mm.

I have some brass that has been shot twice now and they are holding up better than reloaded 303 savage brass.

> The formula for 220 Swift to 303 Savage...let's see...
>
> Get virgin 220 Swift brass from www.MidwayUSA (can get
> it online). There is a particular shell holder for it
> that no other cartridge uses (I forget which one,
> Midway has it). I ran the 220 through a medium neck
> resizer at first because if you go from .224 to .308,
> it screws up the neck and shoulder...you need an
> intermediate size. I use the neck expander from a 6.5
> Jap.
>
> Next, you Put the 220 with the 6.5 caliber neck
> through the 303 die. The shoulder will be shortened,
> as expected, and the neck will be way too long. I use
> a Forster case trimmer and wheedle the neck length
> down to the 303's length. Once you chamfer the case
> mouth...that's it. You are done. Pretty simple.
> I have loaded these with full power loads (Speer 180
> round nose over 30 grains of 4895) and get three inch
> five shot groups at 100 yards with tang peep sights.
> They don't stick, and you can't tell the difference
> between the 303 and the re-made 220's unless you look
> at the rim of the cartridge base (or the headstamp).
> The 220 rim is a little thinner, but I honestly
> haven't seen any headspace problems.
> I have a lot of original 303 brass, but the commercial
> supply is all gone. I thought I'd try the 220 thing,
> and am glad I did.
>
>
> Best of luck, be careful, and watch what you are
> doing...
>
> Good shooting.
>
> GD
 
:!: Good idea! This is a much better and safer option than another method I have seen. Loader used .30-30 brass and placed a collar at the base of the casing. This collar had been made from a section of .40 brass. :shock: Most cases can be made fron existing rounds, just have to find one that is close enough. I make 8mm Lebel rifle brass using .348 Win. and 7.5x54 Mas from 6.5x55mm before Graf's found a producer. :D
 
Whelen B said:
Since the 220 swift rim is far thinner than a 303 Savage rim, how do you insure proper headspacing? Do you use the shoulder
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You got it! :)

.............and the bonus is that 220 Swift brass is much stronger than original factory 303 Savage brass. 8)

Ted
 
Has anyone used 30-30 brass?
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I have shot a lot of game using 30-30 brass. I won't recommend it but have never had a problem. I don't use absolute max loads, & use them only for hunting. And I never reload the brass a second time, just destroy the brass . The stretching of the web may be much more dangerious the second time.
 
Was looking for some loaded .303 savage for a friend found some at Epps in Orillia On www.elwoodepps.com "sit down" $ 75.00 + taxes and very expensive to ship! I bought two lbs of powder wxr & magpro $ 89.00 thank the Liberals
 
I now have 100 cases, some quite old, for $45.00. I tried 30-30 cases with a light load and cast bullets. It worked OK. I loaded some Imperial brass in .303 Savage and the neck seperated on the first one I fired (same light load). The neck is still in the rifle. Thanks for all the help folks.
Gerry
 
Doesn't help you much but I just picked up a box of Dominion 190 gr soft points at the last gun show for $10 or 15 dollars.
I know of a local gun store with two boxes of Winchester Silvertips on the shelf. I think they were about $25 a box. I keep intending to pick them up but can't justify the money. I don't have a rifle to fit them, yet.
 
I loaded some Imperial brass in .303 Savage and the neck seperated on the first one I fired (same light load).
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I found the same thing with old Imperial brass, it seems to be brittle or something :!:
You might try to anneal it before loading, I haven't tried it but it just might do the trick :)
 
Hey Guy's, here's my 2 cents worth.
I have an 1899 savage that was chambered for 303 savage. I took it to the gunsmith and had him rebore it to 38-55 winchester. We missed the fact that the head of the 303 case is .020" larger than the 38-55. The accuracy so far has been horrible using the standard 38-55 case. I cannot use blown out 303 savage brass since even if it does survive the necking up process, it is still too short.

I just finished using 303 British brass. Using my rock chucker press, it takes a determined push to bottom out the case in the sizer die. For those using this methoed to get your 303 savage cases, check your shell holder, you might want to place a small shim in the recessed area so the head of the case has full support. Otherwise the case may tip a bit (mine did).
Used the lathe to turn off the .020" at the head where it is solid brass through and turned the rim to .505" . I am going to load them up tonight.

I also cut apart a machined case about 5/16" ahead of the rim to check the wall thickness after removing the material. The 303 brit case is .003" to .005" thicker so it should be at least equal to the origonal case design strength. I will post my findings after shooting with them. I have another 303 savage that I will be making brass for too and will relay what I come up with.
 
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