.308 to 6.5cm?

[PurpleCrow]

I've ever only found grease/anti seize on tikka threads. By contrast, Remington's often have a mild thread locking compound.
The issue isn't that tikka barrels are overly tight, its that run of the mill barrel vices are "one size fits all" and they suck. The fact that many people (and companies) make a relief cut to remove a Tikka barrel is a travesty in my opinion, as their factory barrels are very good and are in high demand.
A proper barrel vice and action wrench makes removing a factory Tikka barrel a 30 second joke. I do it very regularly; both for builds I've been commissioned to do and for customers who just need the barrel cracked loose and will take the project from there.


I also sell the tooling to guys (and shops) who plan on doing multiple projects.
More info can be found on my website here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/barrel-vice-15
And here:
https://www.prprecisionrifles.com/products-1/p/external-action-wrenches

Do you have any videos of how to use these products to remove the barrel?

 

[Mik123]

Plenty of videos on youtube

 

[PR Cook]

Purplecrow: Here's a picture showing what's going on.

The barrel is held in the vice with bushings that are machined to fit your contour (add a layer of printer paper to prevent aluminum "rubbing") and the receiver is held in the wrench (also machined to fit your make/model and wrapped in paper).
Give the wrench a hearty tug and it'll crack loose.

 

[PurpleCrow]

Purplecrow: Here's a picture showing what's going on.

The barrel is held in the vice with bushings that are machined to fit your contour (add a layer of printer paper to prevent aluminum "rubbing") and the receiver is held in the wrench (also machined to fit your make/model and wrapped in paper).
Give the wrench a hearty tug and it'll crack loose.

Amazing, thank you. I might just sang these instead of the gunsmith option. Seems simple enough.

 

[Ursus061]

I went from 6.5 Creedmoor in a Remington 783 with a 16.5" bbl to a 26" 308 and only needed to switch barrels, go/no go gauges are a must have as well as a sturdy bench with a vise. Have fun

 

[Hungry]

That first “CRACK!” Is scary, but once you’ve had your “ducks in order” and you hear that ‘Crack’, you can / will/ may be reassured all is well. That’s how I felt the first Remmy 700 factory barrel I pulled off. All great learning… never stop learning!!

Lots and lots of expert help here in this forum!!

Cheers!

Barney

 

[Ghillbert]

Hello, I just switched from a cheap mossberg .308 that I dropped into a MDT Oryx then sold and bought a 6.5 cm Tikka tac a1 and am wondering what folks are upgrading on that. i am brand new to long distance so I went with the “ready out of the box” first until I learn more about custom builds. Is there much I can upgrade on the tac a1 ?

 

[Mik123]

Hello, I just switched from a cheap mossberg .308 that I dropped into a MDT Oryx then sold and bought a 6.5 cm Tikka tac a1 and am wondering what folks are upgrading on that. i am brand new to long distance so I went with the “ready out of the box” first until I learn more about custom builds. Is there much I can upgrade on the tac a1 ?

The only replacement I'd look at is a trigger spring from YoDave if the Tac 1 uses the same trigger as a regular Tikka. Otherwise I wouldn't mess with much at the start.

 

[Ghillbert]

Thanks Mik, not sure about the trigger spring being the same, I believe it is a ctr action. The trigger is adjustable and I lowered it to my liking. So far I have no issues and have had it out to 600m a couple times ringing steel with factory loads. Happy so far for a factory build. Figured it was the best option at the start before jumping down the rabbit hole of a full custom build! Glad I got my feet wet!

 

[Adept492]

Here's a quick comparison:

As you can see the case heads have the same dimensions. So, yes, a barrel change only is usually required.

This is something I have been wondering about. Thanks

 

[Thunderhog]

That first “CRACK!” Is scary, but once you’ve had your “ducks in order” and you hear that ‘Crack’, you can / will/ may be reassured all is well. That’s how I felt the first Remmy 700 factory barrel I pulled off. All great learning… never stop learning!!

Lots and lots of expert help here in this forum!!

Cheers!

Barney

Everyone remembers their first crack, it wasn't that scary!...... LOL

 

[Thunderhog]

Amazing, thank you. I might just sang these instead of the gunsmith option. Seems simple enough.

One thing to keep in mind is the indexing on the barrel. So sure, it seems simple enough, but if the indexing is off, it creates a whole ball of worms if you don't have a lathe, an appropriate chamber reamer bit, and a lot of knowledge.

This is why we have trained gunsmiths to fix these issues. It doesn't happen all that often, but when it does, it's back to your local gunsmith.

 

[45C]

One thing to keep in mind is the indexing on the barrel. So sure, it seems simple enough, but if the indexing is off, it creates a whole ball of worms if you don't have a lathe, an appropriate chamber reamer bit, and a lot of knowledge.

This is why we have trained gunsmiths to fix these issues. It doesn't happen all that often, but when it does, it's back to your local gunsmith.

Even with an IBI prefit and barrel nut? Good to know

 

[Thunderhog]

Even with an IBI prefit and barrel nut? Good to know

I'm not sure about a pre-fit barrel, or a barrel with a nut. That would be a PR Cook Gunsmith question.

I've gotten real good at pulling the barrel from the receiver, going back together takes a little more finesse!

I have seen guys actually twist their receivers on real stubborn barrels or people who use those internal receiver wrench's to break loose really tight barrels. Once the receiver is twisted, well it's game over, that receiver is now garbage.....

 

[Longstud]

The internal wrenches if proper for the action are the industry standard. They engage the lugs the bolt engages. So not sure how you’d twist a receiver being it’s at the front of the action. I think there are many misconceptions about barrels and switching them in general. On mass produced guns, barrels can be switched, but headspace is paramount. So either a gunsmith or a set of go/no go gauges are required with some basic understanding. Hence barrel nuts for setting headspace. On many custom actions the barrels can just be ordered and screwed on because of how tight the tolerances are held. I’m fortunate to have a couple custom actions with barrels I can swap in literally minutes. Can even borrow or swap with shooting buddies. It opens up possibilities so a gun can switch from mega heavy prs rifle too carbon fibre hunting gun with a CFstock.

 

[Potashminer]

Purplecrow: Here's a picture showing what's going on.

The barrel is held in the vice with bushings that are machined to fit your contour (add a layer of printer paper to prevent aluminum "rubbing") and the receiver is held in the wrench (also machined to fit your make/model and wrapped in paper).
Give the wrench a hearty tug and it'll crack loose.

I think that picture is showing when a barrel tenon thread is snugged up to a receiver shoulder / barrel shoulder. I bought a 243 Win Remington 783 for my Grandson to start hunting - there is a Rem 783 308 Win barrel and a barrel nut wrench, here, when he will inevitably want "more power". I have not swapped out a barrel nut barrel, yet, but I have undone and reset several Mauser and other milsurp that use the barrel shoulder to receiver shoulder - and then play with headspace and barrel face clearance, and iron sights to top dead centre.

 

[I Dont Care About You]

Seems simple enough.

LOL, famous last words.

 

[struff55]

you don't need a go gauge you really only need a no go gauge the bolt should just start to close on a no go gauge and that is the correct head space

 

[SigWig]

Tag

 

[old303]

... It opens up possibilities so a gun can switch from mega heavy prs rifle too carbon fibre hunting gun with a CFstock.

If you want the same receiver with different barrels and probably different stocks and optics too then having two of that receiver may simplify things and save hassle jumping between PRS and hunting. But you still want easy-change if you're pumping enough rounds in PRS to need fresh barrels now and again.