.338 8mm Rem Mag

Andy is right, you can use 340 Weatherby Starting loads and work up. I wouldn't recommend using max data to start as the Weatherby rifles normally have freebore that allows more powder with the same pressure for the same speeds you can get with less powder and a normal throat. Use the starting loads and a chrony. Stop at about 3150fps with 200-210 gr bullets, 3000fps with 225gr bullets and 2900fps with 250gr bullets and you will likely be under 63 000psi with the appropriate slower burning powders. These velocities would be with a 24" barrel.
 
Andy is right, you can use 340 Weatherby starting loads and work up. I wouldn't recommend using max data to start, as the Weatherby rifles normally have freebore that allows more powder with the same pressure for the same speeds you can get with less powder and a normal throat. Use the starting loads and a chrony. Stop at about 3150fps with 200-210 gr bullets, 3000fps with 225gr bullets and 2900fps with 250gr bullets and you will likely be under 63 000psi with the appropriate slower burning powders. These velocities should be with a 24" barrel.

Notes: rifle: barrel: Lilja; length: 26"; twist: 1-10"; case: Weatherby; primer: Fed. 215; maximum overall cartridge length: 3.562"

200 IMR IMR-4831 81.5 2,960
200 IMR IMR-4350 79.5 2,995
225 Alliant RL-22 82.0 2,802
225 Vihtavuori VV-N165 82.0 2,816
250 Alliant RL-22 79.0 2,700
250 Alliant RL-19 77.0 2,670
Also try IMR 7828 with 250's starting with 83grs. You will reach over 2900fps with this powder.
 
Apparently the Speer #9 manual has data. Loaddata.com lists it too, but you have to pay. Doubt it'd have much advantage over either a .338 mag or an 8mm Rem Mag. Especially as 8mm Rem Mag brass isn't exactly easy to come by. Epp's lists loaded ammo though. Not that that helps.
 
I used to have a 338x8mmremmag myself,but I sold it several years ago,and the loading data went with it.You might want to contact Casull,since I sold my 338x8mmremag reamer to him.
 
I had 2 338-8mms many years ago. That's funny I thought I was the only nut bar out there. I had been brainwashed that the 340 was not accurate do to its free bore. Its a very good round very similar to the 340. I've since had a few 340s and would go that way in the future. Mine were slightly faster than the 340. As others have said start low and use your chono. Look for 3100 with 225s and slightly over 2900 with 250s. You won't need the super slow powders.
 
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