338 Lapua Reloading Novice

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martiy

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About to try my first reloading experience and have one a question for the reloading guru's.

I am using the following;

- Hornady Unprimed Brass
- Large rifle primers
- 250gr accubonds
- RL25 Powder

The question I have is what range of powder grains I should be using. I think it should be somewhere between 93 and 97 grains. Can someone out ther educate me.
 
Looked through some manuals, found nothing.
Got this off snipershide
I got this email response from Alliant:

We have no data of our own for this cartridge so I will attach some loads from outside sources. Unfortunately there are no loads with RL 25. However, if you want to try RL 25 then use the max charge wt for RL 22 as a starting charge weight for RL 25. Work your way up from there and expect the max to be about 4 grs or so over starting. Let me know how it works out. Thanks for your interest in our powder and have a nice day.

RL-22 max in sierra's book says 89 gr.
 
For something as ``energetic as the .338 lapua`` I would consult a loading manual or two and or an experienced reloader first hand for pointers and advice . Some of these cartriges in the range that you query are an advanced animal that needs to be understood before just `` reloading `` can start . Just my opinion !!!
 
martiy said:
Is 93 grains for a 100% load?

Thanks so much for the information
Click to expand...

Mart
Don't take this personally, sounds to me like you know SFA about what you are trying to do. You my friend are dangerous, to yourself and anyone sitting close to you at the range.

You need to buy a reloading manual and read it. The only manual I find Re25 powder data for a 250gr is in the Barnes.

Why aren't you using Magnum primers? Did some authority from a local shop tell you that primers are not that big of a deal? FS
 
Fassteel said:
Mart
Don't take this personally, sounds to me like you know SFA about what you are trying to do. You my friend are dangerous, to yourself and anyone sitting close to you at the range.

You need to buy a reloading manual and read it. The only manual I find Re25 powder data for a 250gr is in the Barnes.

Why aren't you using Magnum primers? Did some authority from a local shop tell you that primers are not that big of a deal? FS
Click to expand...

Look I never said I was doing the actual reloading. I am buying the components and my buddy who reloads is taking care of the actual reloading work, I am just trying to learn along the way which is why I posted in the first place.

I am not interested in hearing from the self rightuous reloading snobs, only from the people who are really interested in helping other people learn the craft. I would appreciate the next time you try to provide advice to someone, dont say "don't take this personally" and the follow up with totally condescending verbiage.

For the record, all components I listed were recommended and supplied by your peer's at P&D upon consultation of one of the reloaders manuals.
 
"...educate me..." Start by buying an Alliant manual. There's no .338 Lapua data on their site. You could contact 'em and ask if they have any. alliant.reloading@atk.com 1-800-276-9337
"...93 grains for a 100% load..." That'd be the max load. 86 grains is the starting load. Work up, in half grain increments, loading 5(or a mag load) to the max. Mark the cases or keep 'em separate by powder charge. Then go shooting, off a solid bench rest(wouldn't really want to shoot a .338 Lapua off a bench myself, but it's neccessary), for group only at 100 yards. Once you've found the best load for your rifle, sight in. Assuming you only have a 100 yard range. You need to look at .338 Lapua ballistics tables for how high at 100.
"...Lyman says:..." That out of the 49th Edition? Just curious. Lyman manuals are your friend.
"...Why aren't you using Magnum primers?..." Magnum primers are about the powder, not the cartridge name.
"...never said I was doing the actual reloading..." You really should be, if your buddy will let you use his kit until you get your own. Very little is as satifying as a wee group with ammo you loaded yourself.
 
sunray said:
"...educate me..." Start by buying an Alliant manual. There's no .338 Lapua data on their site. You could contact 'em and ask if they have any. alliant.reloading@atk.com 1-800-276-9337
"...93 grains for a 100% load..." That'd be the max load. 86 grains is the starting load. Work up, in half grain increments, loading 5(or a mag load) to the max. Mark the cases or keep 'em separate by powder charge. Then go shooting, off a solid bench rest(wouldn't really want to shoot a .338 Lapua off a bench myself, but it's neccessary), for group only at 100 yards. Once you've found the best load for your rifle, sight in. Assuming you only have a 100 yard range. You need to look at .338 Lapua ballistics tables for how high at 100.
"...Lyman says:..." That out of the 49th Edition? Just curious. Lyman manuals are your friend.
"...Why aren't you using Magnum primers?..." Magnum primers are about the powder, not the cartridge name.
"...never said I was doing the actual reloading..." You really should be, if your buddy will let you use his kit until you get your own. Very little is as satifying as a wee group with ammo you loaded yourself.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the information, thank you very much.

I do intend to load on his press at some point and buy one of my own when I feel more comfortable performing the work.

Would you recommend Lyman manuals and equipment?

P&D did provide "Large Rifle Primers" would you suggest Magnums?

Thanks again for the advice.
 
"...Would you recommend Lyman manuals and equipment?..." Hi. The manual, absolutely. Equipment, not so much, but only because RCBS and Redding equipment was easier to get when I started. There's nothing wrong with Lyman equipment though.
Buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading. Your local gun shop or Amazon. It's a basic how-to book. Your buddy might have one.
Think in terms of a 'Beginner's Kit' from any maker, when you get that far. Gives you everything you'll need less dies and shell holder. They usually come with a manual, but buy the Lyman book too.
The Lyman manual has more loads, using more powders and bullet weights, than any bullet or powder manufacturer's book. Not that there's anything wrong with the manufacturer's books, but they only give data for their products. The Lyman book is just far more versatile.
"...suggest Magnums..." Like I said, magnum primers are about the powder used, not the cartridge name. They burn a bit hotter, for a bit longer(milliseconds). They're made for lighting hard to ignite powders and cold weather shooting. You don't need 'em unless the manual says to use 'em for a particular powder. Nothing bad will happen if you do use 'em. Mind you, if you work up a load with regular primers then want to switch, you should work up the load again.
"...data for a 250gr is in the Barnes..." Not on their site. Mind you, their site gives limited data, for their pricey bullets, in the first place. They want you to buy their manual.
 
sunray said:
"...Would you recommend Lyman manuals and equipment?..." Hi. The manual, absolutely. Equipment, not so much, but only because RCBS and Redding equipment was easier to get when I started. There's nothing wrong with Lyman equipment though.
Buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading. Your local gun shop or Amazon. It's a basic how-to book. Your buddy might have one.
Think in terms of a 'Beginner's Kit' from any maker, when you get that far. Gives you everything you'll need less dies and shell holder. They usually come with a manual, but buy the Lyman book too.
The Lyman manual has more loads, using more powders and bullet weights, than any bullet or powder manufacturer's book. Not that there's anything wrong with the manufacturer's books, but they only give data for their products. The Lyman book is just far more versatile.
"...suggest Magnums..." Like I said, magnum primers are about the powder used, not the cartridge name. They burn a bit hotter, for a bit longer(milliseconds). They're made for lighting hard to ignite powders and cold weather shooting. You don't need 'em unless the manual says to use 'em for a particular powder. Nothing bad will happen if you do use 'em. Mind you, if you work up a load with regular primers then want to switch, you should work up the load again.
"...data for a 250gr is in the Barnes..." Not on their site. Mind you, their site gives limited data, for their pricey bullets, in the first place. They want you to buy their manual.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the advice. I appreciate it.
 
martiy said:
Look I never said I was doing the actual reloading. I am buying the components and my buddy who reloads is taking care of the actual reloading work, I am just trying to learn along the way which is why I posted in the first place.

I am not interested in hearing from the self rightuous reloading snobs, only from the people who are really interested in helping other people learn the craft. I would appreciate the next time you try to provide advice to someone, dont say "don't take this personally" and the follow up with totally condescending verbiage.

For the record, all components I listed were recommended and supplied by your peer's at P&D upon consultation of one of the reloaders manuals.
Click to expand...

" About to try my first reloading experience" That does not indicate to me that some one else is helping you with your project?
Always interested in helping out others who need help, nothing self righteous about me.
Still haven't found a manual that suggests a LR primer over a Magnum primer. FS
 
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