35 cal brake for a 358 win?

DarkSyd

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Can anyone recommend a quality 35 caliber brake for a 358 win build? I'm ordering a barrel and want to make sure I get things threaded properly :)
Cheers
DS
 
You don't need a brake on a .358... I have several .358's, including a couple light carbines... they are all pleasant to shoot, even with heavy 250 grain loads.
 
You don't need a brake on a .358... I have several .358's, including a couple light carbines... they are all pleasant to shoot, even with heavy 250 grain loads.

What a silly sentiment. Not everyone enjoys recoil or finds them pleasant to shoot.

As for OP, you will likely have to have a .308 brake bored out to fit. I doubt you’ll find a .35 cal brake on the shelf, as it’s simply not a very common caliber. Pick a design that you like and have it modified to suit. You’ll want the muzzle to be machined 5/8-24 anyways.
 
The most precise way to install a brake is to set the barrel up in the lathe, turn and thread the muzzle, install the brake, and then bore it out until it is about .020" over bullet diameter. This guarantees the bore and brake will be co-axial.
If you are dealing with a pre-threaded barrel, screw on the brake and check to make sure the bullet will not touch it.
It might be necessary to bore out a .30 brake to get one for a .35 rifle; that is a straightforward operation.
You are ordering the barrel. Can the maker thread the muzzle for you? What is your muzzle diameter? That will determine the thread size. I prefer the largest possible thread diameter that will leave a good shoulder to torque the brake against.
 
The most precise way to install a brake is to set the barrel up in the lathe, turn and thread the muzzle, install the brake, and then bore it out until it is about .020" over bullet diameter. This guarantees the bore and brake will be co-axial.
If you are dealing with a pre-threaded barrel, screw on the brake and check to make sure the bullet will not touch it.
It might be necessary to bore out a .30 brake to get one for a .35 rifle; that is a straightforward operation.
You are ordering the barrel. Can the maker thread the muzzle for you? What is your muzzle diameter? That will determine the thread size. I prefer the largest possible thread diameter that will leave a good shoulder to torque the brake against.

I was leaning towards getting a 30 brake bored out...glad to confirm that is probably the best plan. Haven't yet decided on a barrel maker, but just about everyone I've talked to can thread, yes. I'll coordinate finished muzzle diameter and a quality 30 cal brake and go from there.

FWIW, ya, I know 358 isn't a huge recoil monster...one of the reasons I'm going with it. I've got a ton of 308 stuff...mags, furniture, tons of brass etc that I am wanting to turn into something I can shoot as much as I did the AR. Doing a short barrel 358 in a chassis...some sort of fixed emplacement hog suppression unit to stave off the boredom until the AR is useable again :)

I've got the action and chassis, just need to pull the pin on the barrel and brake.

Thanks!
 
What a silly sentiment. Not everyone enjoys recoil or finds them pleasant to shoot.

As for OP, you will likely have to have a .308 brake bored out to fit. I doubt you’ll find a .35 cal brake on the shelf, as it’s simply not a very common caliber. Pick a design that you like and have it modified to suit. You’ll want the muzzle to be machined 5/8-24 anyways.

It's not a sentiment, it is experience. My buddies 12 year old daughter shot five rounds from my .358 Carbine with 225 grain loads and told her dad she liked it better than her 7-08... she shot it very well too.

OP, give the rifle a try first and see how you feel about it, you can always add the brake later if you decide to go that way.
 
That's a good plan, but I will get the barrel threaded when I get it, so I don't wind up paying for extra work down the road. I can just put a cap on it until if/when I put something else on.
 
Can anyone recommend a quality 35 caliber brake for a 358 win build? I'm ordering a barrel and want to make sure I get things threaded properly :)
Cheers
DS

Is this for a hunting rifle... not a heavy gun?

Brakes are best when precision fitted to the barrel...and the brake bored concentric for bullet clearance... rather than just thread a barrel and add threaded brake.

I can supply and fit, bore and finish this style of stainless radial brake. PM me if interested. Based on a 35 caliber barrel I would suggest a 9/16 x 24 thread.

This is a very light barrel, the major brake diameter is .700".
thinbarrelbrake1-0.jpg
 
Is this for a hunting rifle... not a heavy gun?

Brakes are best when precision fitted to the barrel...and the brake bored concentric for bullet clearance... rather than just thread a barrel and add threaded brake.

I can supply and fit, bore and finish this style of stainless radial brake. PM me if interested. Based on a 35 caliber barrel I would suggest a 9/16 x 24 thread.

This is a very light barrel, the major brake diameter is .700".
thinbarrelbrake1-0.jpg

700 action, PCR chassis, 16" barrel (heavy/varmint contour). Not necessarily for hunting as hunting season is usually my busiest time of the year, so would be hogs if anything. It's more of a 'because I want to' gun :)

Let me shoot you a PM!
 
On heavier barrels as the Sendero I turn a larger brake to match the barrel. This one is a side port...

preview-sendero-indexed-brake-top-view-0.jpg

preview-sendero-indexed-brake-side-view-0.jpg
 
As Hoyt commented, a break is not needed for the .358, even with heavy bullets it’s a mild recoiling cartridge. Try shooting it first before you waist your money. And don’t forget brakes usually increase muzzle blast.
 
Here is some more experience... many people build with the intentions of keeping the piece, but plans change, preferences change and they decide to sell... threading the barrel and/or braking the barrel will cost you money upfront and again on resale, all in my experience... I still suggest trying it first... it is not an expensive job to do it later if you decide to do so.
 
Here is some more experience... many people build with the intentions of keeping the piece, but plans change, preferences change and they decide to sell...

That is so true... look at the EE here and on other forums and see custom builds left, right and center up for sale...
 
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