.350 Rem Mag case forming

4fifty8

4fifty8

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Location
Bow Valley AB
Got Redding Form & Trim Die for .350 Rem Mag works pretty good no worries to keep my rifle fed. 👍

  • run .338 Win Mag brass (lubed) thru die
  • hack formed case to just a bit overlength
  • run case thru neck sizer to properly shape neck
  • finish by trimming to spec length with case trimmer

cTui5MF.jpg


Bam4gjt.jpg
 
4fifty8 said:
✔️Right, $60 per 20 or $3 each: http://beaksandbrass.ca/store/product/p_3171694

Typo(?) in their location assumed to be North Lancaster Ontario.

Currently have a good supply of new Nosler .350 RM brass should be good for quite a while got the form & trim die just in case.
Click to expand...

Currently going through similar with a buddy and 300 RUM, except only case we can use is 404 Jeff and it's more expensive then 300 RUM brass and we would have to turn the rims.
How's the necks on your project? Do they need to be turned?
 
Dummy round with Hornady 250gr SP chambers ok & no neck tension issues. Using Re17 safely load my .350 RM to same muzzle speed as .338 WM with 250gr bullet ~ 2700 fps.

Forming from larger to smaller .404 to .308 neck gets compressed wall thickens neck might need to be turned for round to chamber.

mBm9eBs.jpg
 
Last edited:
Just a thought, I done a lot of 3006 in to 8x57. I found trimming it to length first using a Lee case trim attachment on a drill, with a hardwood block with the appropriate hole and block cut to the desired brass length. Believe it or not but the best thing I've found to trim the brass is a Olfa knife. For mine I cut it about 2 thousands shorter than the end product, chamfer so not to scratch the dies, anneal then resize.
 
redding trim die
Does the trim die fit down to the belt or over like a regular fl resizing die?
wondering if it can be used to address the body swell just above the belt, like a magnum body die
 
Don't think so...I prefer to neck size only if I can for more precise shoulder head spacing, avoid fatiguing case shoulders & body.
 
Last edited:
I like the neck sizing also but finding that pushing back that .002 brass is causing or allowing a bulge at the belt
thinking of trying a body die like the larrywillis magnum collet resizing die..........or the trim die if it worked
 
Last edited:
boxhitch said:
I like the neck sizing also but finding that pushing back that .002 brass is causing or allowing a bulge at the belt
thinking of trying a body die like the larrywillis magnum collet resizing die..........or the trim die if it worked
Click to expand...

Larry Willis collet die - I have one - it only touches perhaps 1/8" in front of the belt - nothing else on the case. If your process for pushing shoulder back caused a "bulge" in front of the belt, Larry Willis die would scrunch that to be flat - but then likely just pushes your shoulder ahead, again? Not sure - never checked for that. I never needed it on my 338 Win Mag - multiple boxes of factory and hundreds of my reloads fired - either from new brass or from re-sized previously fired brass from this rifle. I had to use it on plethora of 300 Weatherby though - I bought it as "once fired" and not one of 300 cases would chamber - AFTER I had full length sized them - the Larry Willis die and the little gauge on the top showed the problem was right in front of the belt - they all chamber now.
 
Muddling several threads here

I still like the Willis die as with it the collet crunches any bulge above the belt inward, where the cut-off sizer die of JJs slides down the brass to squeeze it to a different dimension, more pulling and moving of brass maybe
 
Potashminer said:
Larry Willis collet die - I have one - it only touches perhaps 1/8" in front of the belt - nothing else on the case. If your process for pushing shoulder back caused a "bulge" in front of the belt, Larry Willis die would scrunch that to be flat - but then likely just pushes your shoulder ahead, again? Not sure - never checked for that. I never needed it on my 338 Win Mag - multiple boxes of factory and hundreds of my reloads fired - either from new brass or from re-sized previously fired brass from this rifle. I had to use it on plethora of 300 Weatherby though - I bought it as "once fired" and not one of 300 cases would chamber - AFTER I had full length sized them - the Larry Willis die and the little gauge on the top showed the problem was right in front of the belt - they all chamber now.
Click to expand...

What brand of die do you use for the 338? maybe it is tighter to begin with , essentially a small base,
with my RCBS the bulge is there with each fl loading, less with the shoulder bump, never to the point of not chambering but loads don't just fall into the chamber without a little push on the bolt knob
 
boxhitch said:
What brand of die do you use for the 338? maybe it is tighter to begin with , essentially a small base,
with my RCBS the bulge is there with each fl loading, less with the shoulder bump, never to the point of not chambering but loads don't just fall into the chamber without a little push on the bolt knob
Click to expand...

The brand of 338 Win Mag die is RCBS. I do not think it is smaller than "usual" - some years ago I was trying to re-form some brass to 7x61 from previously fired 7 mm Rem Mag - I think I was using a "Herter's" brand F.L. 7x61 die set. I do not think any would fit into the S&L 7x61 rifle. Jiffy marker showed the "hang up" was right in front of the belt. I ordered that Larry Willis die. In mean time, while waiting for it to show up, I stripped the guts from that 338 Win Mag die, and set it upside down in my press - the re-formed 7x61 just dropped in to the belt. However, when I did the same thing on my 458 Win Mag die, they stopped a good 1/2" (1 cm) or more from touching the belt. So I set up that .458 Wn Mag die in normal fashion and ran all the re-formed 7x61 brass through that one - they all then fit to the rifle. The rifle owner got a farm land moose on his Dad's farm that fall - a single shot - using my re-formed brass and my loads in it.

So I never used the Larry Willis die on those 7x61 brass that I re-formed - but later I bought 300 x 300 Weatherby "1F" brass on CGN EE - after full length sizing, not one would go into my 300 WBY chambered rifle. The die let me scrunch them enough that they all chambered. I never did try that 458 in Mag die on the 300 WBY cases - I was just going with the "drop-in" gauge on the top of that Larry Willis die.
 
Last edited:
looks like your process is really no different than just running the brass through a 350 mag die without the expander rod, if the form/trim die doesn't address the brass any differently
forming die must have a different taper for the shoulder than the regular sizer

thanks for the post
 
Last edited:
I "trick" I used a while ago - I wanted to make 7x61 brass from 7mm Rem Mag, but did not want to spend the several hundred dollars for the form die set made for that - so first pass was through the bullet seating die - it definitely did start the shoulder correctly - I trimmed the brass a bit, then ran it through the sizing die that was set so that the case just sized enough to allow the bolt to close - trimmed them to finished length and fire-formed them like that.

From what I saw making 9.3x57 brass from 8x57 brass - those cases were first made nearly straight wall using several expanders - not sure a bullet seating die is needed to bring the neck "down" from that size - the sizing die took the case necks down properly - disregard the instructions for setting that FL die, and set it so that it just barely allows the bolt to close on the chambered case - IF you have it properly trimmed to length for your chamber.
 
Picked up a tube cutter works pretty good way faster than hack sawing & cuts clean. By coincidence hold cutter against flat surface & rotate case to cut it's only 0.003" shorter than spec length.

EY8ai4R.jpg
EUyddKe.jpg


YqlEEEV.jpg
 
Last edited:
Glad I have 600 pieces of headstamped R-P .350 RM brass... should feed my three .350's for the duration of their lives. I hate forming brass with more than a couple steps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom