375HH Magnum - to crimp or not to crimp

moomba39

moomba39

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I'm just getting into reloading 375HH ammo and have conflicting info on whether to crimp or not. The Lyman manual says not to crimp any bullets that do not have a cannelure, however my Lee reloading die set has instructions that bullets that don't have a cannelure can be crimped using the included crimping die. Would this not damage the bullet in some way?

Also, I understand that heavy recoil caliber ammo should always be crimped - should I simply stay away from bullets without a cannelure? Does anyone have any experience with this?
 
You *can* use the LEE FACTORY CRIMP DIE to use on bullets with no cannelures, but I woudl try them without the crimp, first.

If you experience bullets getting pushed back into the case while in the magazine, you can always crimp later.

Most rifle cartridges dont' really need a crimp, anyway. :cool:
 
If shooting from a Ruger #1 or any single shot, I'd say that thing is a moot point.
In repeating rifle, with dangerous game, I'd tend to crimp ALL my bullets since a bullet creeping under recoil and tying the gun up is a serious concern.
If you cannot get bullets with the cannelure where you want it, just have a look at Dillon's catalog; they are listing a cannelure tool that is really well made.
PP.:)
 
375 HH The One and Only

I used Ken Water's Pet Loads as my basis for my Sako 375HH full stock. 76.1 grains of Win 760, Fed primer and a 300 Nosler partition (great for ALL N.A. and most African game!). Due to the 69Lbs of recoil, a strong taper crimp is what I use. The rifle shoots 3 shot, dime size groups at 100 Meters. Case lenght is always very important when using a standard roll crimp. It is not as important for a taper crimp. A good crimp will give you more consistency due to each bullet having the same resistance to the crimp. One of my friends is a lady of all of 100Lbs wet. She has shot more African game with the same gun and ammo combination in the last 10 years than many a big game hunter in their lifetime, including: 10 foot lion, elephant, rhino, hippo and at least 10 to 12 BIG boars every year!:)

Best regards from a long range handloader,
H;) enry
 
What kind of rifle do you have?

A single shot, like a Ruger #1 does not require the ammo to be crimped. If, on the other hand, the rifle is a magazine fed bolt gun - then yes crimp. The rounds in the magazine will have the bullets driven back into the necks if you do not crimp - especially if you have a habit of leaving one or two rounds at the bottom of the magazine and add rounds above them.
 
I crimp all my big game hunting ammo that goes in a repeater. Just a little extra insurance to help cheat Murphy and his damn law when you're out in the bush
 
Boomer said:
If, on the other hand, the rifle is a magazine fed bolt gun - then yes crimp. The rounds in the magazine will have the bullets driven back into the necks if you do not crimp - especially if you have a habit of leaving one or two rounds at the bottom of the magazine and add rounds above them.
Click to expand...

Whoa there Boomer!:p

I think it is important to find out AT THE RANGE if your bullets will get pushed back in the magazine...

If they do not (And I find that most won't) then ther eis no need to crimp.

It is up to the individual, to test his individual rifle.

However, I woudl be the first to add- err on the side of caution.;)
 
I believe that the advise about not crimping unless required because of use in tube magazines or due to heavy recoil on rounds in a magazine is over emphasized. In reality crimping a bullet, when done properly, will not harm accuracy, and because it uniforms bullet pull weight, it may in some cases improve it. Crimping should be done as a separate operation from bullet seating, and when crimping with a normal seating die, the seating stem should be raised or removed before the crimping operation takes place. All the ammunition I make for big game I now crimp if there is a cannular on the bullet I load.
 
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