.38spl-.357 mag ring in chamber

577/450

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
19   0   0
Location
Sleepyburg AB
I know that this is a very subjective question. I have a pile of .38spl and no gun. I have a .357 mag.
Now I have heard that excessive use of 38 in a 357 can "ring" the chamber essentially ruining it for .357. Any one have any knowledge, or experience with a problem like this? I got lucky and found a fellow in financial distress and picked up a colt python stainless for a real good price. I would hate to ruin it. ???????????????:confused:
 
The chamber is the cylinder. That said the use of 38 does cause a ring of burnt powder to form. You have to brush out your cylinder to remove it. My GP 100 get is all the time. I just use a good brass brush on each "chamber" and it cleans it right out. Then you can shoot 357 without issue.

Also look for Flitz cloth. It can be used to clean the stainless gun after you think it is clean. I can take any stainless gun that the owner says is spotless and in a couple of minutes the gun will be cleaner and the cloth will be pitch black. It also puts a light coating on the gun the makes future cleanings easier.
 
I've never really bought into that, assuming you clean the gun and we're talking 10's of thousands of rounds not 100's of thousands. No one has ever told me what exactly the use of 38 brass is supposed to ruin, are they saying that ring erosion will prevent you from inserting a 357 cartridge? - can't be erosion goes outward, not inward (right?). How about ruins accuracy with 357 brass? - problem again, 357 brass is longer, if it were shorter and the bullet was being made to do gymnastics I might (only might) buy it, but since it's longer brass, none of this is happening, besides, revolver bullets don't really settle until they're in the barrel anyway. If you can't insert 357 cases into your 38/357 revolver, clean the damned thing - no gun works well when it's filthy.
 
It's not an issue if you clean your cylinder regularly and don't allow it to build up. I've seen the build up and I know people who only shoot 357 rounds, (loaded like 38s), in their 357 guns.

If you do shoot 38s, lube and powder residue can build up and then if you go to chamber a 357 it can stick a little and the rims can drag, but you're either shooting tons or you aren't cleaning your gun enough in my opinion.
 
My bad it is early and I should contribute to the sat nite drunk thread. Should have said cylinder.
Thanks for the civil replies, I just wanted some opinions.
 
Technically, the revolver cylinder is the complete round rotating part of the revolver.
The cylinder contains several ( usually 6 ) chambers, also known as charge holes.

At least this is what I have been taught over the years.
 
30 years ago when I was a kid I fired 10,000's of 38 spl's in a Smith 686. There would be the usual burnt powder, carbon and burnt lube forming the ring. A few swipes with a bronze brush and 357's would chamber just great.

BUT


Years later I bought a borescope when I started rebarelling my target rifles. Started scoping everything I owned. Looked at my Smith chambers at 20x power with the borescope. That ring looks downright nasty. Even in a mild cartridge at low pressures like 38 spl you're still dealing with 20,000 psi, high temps and both corrosive and erosive effects on the steel. My Dan Wesson 44 mag that had 10,000's of shorter 44 spec through it had the same thing. Ditto for my Python although it probably only had 10,000 38 spl through it.

I think we're seeing both corrosion which shrinks the bore (e.g. think of a rusty bolt which is tight not loose), and erosion which is loss of metal. Either way the changes are permanent changes to the chamber and throat and not just the build up of gunk that can be cleaned away.

It doesn't mean much for the average shooter or the average gun but may be an issue for very high volume shooters or guns. It's an issue for me as I intend to keep both my Python and Dan Wesson till my kid inherits them. Neither are safe queens so both now get only the long cases 357 mag or 44 mag.

I wish it weren't so but 5 minutes with a borescope can really change how you think about barrels, throats, cleaning, hot loads, chambers etc. etc. Rebarreling a rifle or semi auto handgun is no big deal but putting a new barrel or cylinder into a revolver esp a semi collectable one is a whole nother ball of wax.

Bottom line, never, ever buy a borescope.... sometimes ignorance is bliss, sold mine.
 
I use a .40 or .45cal bore brush on a hand drill and short cleaning rod extension. Run it with some powder solvent and it removes the ring pretty darn quickly.

If you reload another slick idea is to flare a few .357Mag cases out to where the flare rubs fairly firmly on the walls of the chamber. When you push them ahead the flared mouth makes for a great scraper that chips the fouling ring off in a blink. Lightly running the flared mouths over a fine cut file would sharpen the corners and make them into an even better ring scraper. Follow up the scraping with some bore brush and solvent to remove the last of it.

Doesn't take much more time to do than it did to read this post.
 
I don't plan on running hot .38's anyway, so it won't matter to me or the Ruger Blackhawk.

If I want more power I'll use .357 handloads. I can definitely see the reason for full length .357 cases for milder loads though, but sometimes factory .38 Special can be pretty inexpensive, especially compared to .357 factory loads.
 
The buildup is most obvious with lead bullets, and a steady diet if .38s can get a lead ring between the .38 case mouth and the front edge of the .357 chamber, not likely to see erosion unless you use +P .38s. It will get bad enough to refuse a .357- learned that the hard way in a "snubbie"match using .357 cases for the first time in a Model 19 :-( Hard work with a brass brush, a Lewis lead remover, or ultimately the "lead removal REAMER" that Brownell's used to market generally cures it. Any short round in a long chamber will experience this, no matter what calibre.

Dr Jim
 
Back
Top Bottom