43 Mauser Brass Forming?

Fox

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A friend of mine sent a sporterized 71/84 Mauser my way, it is missing the mag tube but essentially I can make it in to a 2 shot rifle.

The bore looks to be great and I would love to get it shooting, get him out shooting it too as it was a safe queen for him for a while too.

I have read that 45-70 makes ok brass but short and 45-90 makes fine brass if you stick with black powder loads.

The big question I have, why is the head of the base shaped so weird on factory ammo? The bolt face on this rifle is flat and fits a 45-70 case like a glove. The 45-70 case does not chamber obviously but the case head fits right, extracts and ejects.

Also, any other guidance on forming brass? I know that all the belted magnums can be used to make brass but there is no extraction then.
 
The weird head might be because it is a 2 part case.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/11×60mm_Mauser

I have no experience with .43 Mauser but I have made brass for my .43 Spanish with 45-70
Anneal the case and form in proper die. Some anneal after forming. I seem to remember, I annealed after forming.

Looks like 45-90 can work but trying to figure out this weird case head.

If I cannot make it from cheap brass then it is not going to happen.

You can also make it from the belted magnum cases but there is not enough extractor to remove it so you have to use a C-clip, or build up the rim, sort of weird.
 
If you are talking about the bevel on the rear of the case rim, I believe the purpose was to help that big heavy extractor slip over the rim on the original single shot model 71. 45/70 cases work OK, but, as you say, are a bit short. 45/90 are closer to the proper length, and work fine as well, it is easy to grind or file an acceptable bevel on these if you wish,although some rifles work fine without.The problem is that their bases are smaller than the Mauser, and the brass has to expand to fill the chamber. This generally doesn't cause a problem unless you have a ...shall we say "generous" chamber. If you wrap a thin strip of masking tape or similar product around the base of the case to keep it centred in the chamber when fireforming it keeps the expansion a little more even around the case.These cases should work well after that if loaded reasonably...... have fun......catnip
 
I believe 348 Winchester brass will work

Also check around for 44-77 brass..it will be the cloest I believe.. Rustywood may have some

Correct about the 375hh case family brass. extraction is an issue. But depends on how much you want to shoot and what type of shooting. It's easy to pull the brass by hand similar to a single shot.

I cut a belt grove in my 43 Mauser barrel so I can use 375hh case family cases necked up, trimmed and ran through my dies.

I call that the 43 express
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1913863-new-wildcat-43-Express
 
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If you are talking about the bevel on the rear of the case rim, I believe the purpose was to help that big heavy extractor slip over the rim on the original single shot model 71. 45/70 cases work OK, but, as you say, are a bit short. 45/90 are closer to the proper length, and work fine as well, it is easy to grind or file an acceptable bevel on these if you wish,although some rifles work fine without.The problem is that their bases are smaller than the Mauser, and the brass has to expand to fill the chamber. This generally doesn't cause a problem unless you have a ...shall we say "generous" chamber. If you wrap a thin strip of masking tape or similar product around the base of the case to keep it centred in the chamber when fireforming it keeps the expansion a little more even around the case.These cases should work well after that if loaded reasonably...... have fun......catnip

Do you know if this extractor issue happened with the 71/84?

Part of me wants to cut down a 45-70 case so it will fully chamber, just the case head really, and see if it grabs it reliably.

I think I can get some 45-70 brass easy enough.

If this would work then it may be worth investing in the dies and going down the rabbit hole. I was looking at mold options, a friend has a 0.450 paper patch mold for the 45-70, I thought maybe powder coat and size to 0.446? I know I have to slug the bore first though.
 
45 70...rims need to be turned down and beveled
To prevent extractor damage....
In 71/84 the bolt face is recessed...the 4570 head dia is greater..wont headspace correctly..unlrss case heads are turned down and beveled. Ive mad hundreds of cases out of 4570 in past... Now in the mod 71....the boltface is flat surface...and the 4570 works with a resize and fireform...
 
45 70...rims need to be turned down and beveled
To prevent extractor damage....
In 71/84 the bolt face is recessed...the 4570 head dia is greater..wont headspace correctly..unlrss case heads are turned down and beveled. Ive mad hundreds of cases out of 4570 in past... Now in the mod 71....the boltface is flat surface...and the 4570 works with a resize and fireform...

Hmm, weird, this is a flat bolt face and a tube fed stamped 71/84.

Possibly a 71 bolt in it?
 
20230717_112911_HDR.jpg silver case is reg 4570
Brass is one i converted yrs ago...the bolthead has a recess for extractor to ride over rim of shell... The 4570 head is larger..needs be turned down and beveled..i used a 1/2" drill..insert 4570 case spin dril..use flat file making careful passes...and it take a knack to it..but ive made HUNDREDS...the cycle and eject as normal..20230717_114042_HDR.jpg
 

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300 win mag not worth hassle
In a 71/84...wont feed right
Nor eject. .its ok in mid 71 single...
The boltface on a 71/84 had a recess
Where the 4570 case wont seat firmly against the bilt face without this modification i pictured...if you dont bevel them....youll get get extractor damage or action
Has hard time closing...also primers will back out if case is fired with excessive space between boltface
And rim of shell
 
View attachment 694573 silver case is reg 4570
Brass is one i converted yrs ago...the bolthead has a recess for extractor to ride over rim of shell... The 4570 head is larger..needs be turned down and beveled..i used a 1/2" drill..insert 4570 case spin dril..use flat file making careful passes...and it take a knack to it..but ive made HUNDREDS...the cycle and eject as normal..View attachment 694575

Just that bevel is not that big of a deal, just turn it in a drill and throw a bevel on there that is reasonable.

I will try to get some pictures tonight if I have a chance and show how the bolt looks and extractor in this gun.
 
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