45 70 brass...how many reloads... do you have to anneal it

czscotia

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Hey guys,
How many times can you reload 45 70 brass with out annealing?
I'm up to 4 on some of mine, and I dont flare the mouth any more than I have to to get the bullet to start,
but I wonder how much streatching and crimping they can do?
Also sometimes I buy a factory box and start cycling that brass through with the rest, how do you guys keep
track of eacxh pc.
Thanks for input.
 
I anneal my brass every 5-7 firings regardless of calibre. I haven't had to anneal any 45-70 just yet because I don't shoot it that often (I hope to change that soon.)

To keep track of brass I use plastic containers from MTM or Plano. Each one is marked with calibre and the specific rifle it is loaded for if it is loaded for one in particular. I keep a paper chart in each box listing the load data and marking when it is FL sized, annealed, and other tidbits. If you mix newer brass in with older brass there is no way to tell them apart. When one box is all of a known heritage and you start getting split necks, loose primer pockets, or other issues in some of the brass you know the rest is soon to follow. If you mix brass then you just have to toss the bad cases as they fail and hope not too many go in the next firing. Either method works for the casual shooter really. If you are striving for optimum performance you really do need to keep track of a lot more information.
 
I have a batch that has been fired about 40 times. I don't anneal either. Some claim brass will last almost forever if annealed properly, problem is, hardly anyone actually does the job properly. You can cause problems if it's not done right. By the time I get a case split, I usually only have maybe 70 left from the original 100 due to other damage, loss, etc, so I just toss all of them and get another bag.
 
Thanks for the info,
I have read, on the internet mind you, that 45 70 should be good for
any where from 12 reloadings on up.
I just sort of bought a box here and there to get started, but next I'll buy a bag
and keep it seperated from the rest from now on.
 
I'm sure someone will come along and correct me, but what's the point of annealing straight walled cases?

On straight wall cases you have to expand- bell the mouth to start the bullet and after its seated you crimp with a roll or taper die to hold the bullet tight - this process work hardens the brass mouth ! RJ
 
Keeping the case mouth annealed will allow positive case mouth expansion at firing to improve the seal. I would suggest the need is really for competitive shooters using paper patched bullets to do the annealing after every firing. I believe Mike Venturino is a follower of the practice and I am not even positive he resizes the cases for his competition single shot rifles opting for a snug fit with the paper patched bullet.
 
I anneal after 3-4 firings, why not, it's super fast, and it's fun. get a few beers, a propane torch, and party alone in your garage annealing cases at night.
Seriously, unless you do thousands, it's quite quick, it takes like 10 seconds per case including the handling and tossing. 6 a minute, 360 an hour...
I had only like 100 300 win mag cases, so it's at worst a 30 min job.
I like the color so much. I don't tumble after annealing.
 
I am not even positive he resizes the cases for his competition single shot rifles opting for a snug fit with the paper patched bullet.
I don't usually resize my 45-70 brass for my single shot rifle if I'm loading cast bullets. In a fire formed case I can push a tumble lubed bullet in with my fingers to the crimp groove and then just use a Lee factory crimp die to crimp it in place. Removing the resizing step saves me time for my light plinking rounds. If loading full power jacketed loads I do still resize as they don't have the alox lube to stick them in place until crimped. I got the idea from one of Venturino's books and since trying it have stuck with that practice as it's just easier and doesn't seem to effect the accuracy.
 
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