.45 ACP Reloading Suggestions?

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I want to start loading my own .45 ACP ammo. I will be using a single stage press and I will be picking up some (probably two) reloading manuals that will have all the load data I could ever use.

I'm wondering what works best for you, though?

I'm looking for a round that has a good balance of power and manageability. I don't want to be firing full-power .45 ACP all day long.

I know some of the older guys at my range who load a lot of revolver ammo (.38 Special mostly) load lighter rounds for target shooting, which is mostly what I'll be doing.

I'm going to be using the ammo in a semi, though, not a revolver, so it needs to maintain enough power to cycle the action reliably.

Also, what would the benefit to "magnum primers" be over "regular primers" ?

What do you use for your load:

  • What type and brand of powder and how many grains?
  • What type, weight, and brand of bullet do you use? (I'll likely stick to FMJ 230-gr, though, otherwise I could just shoot my .40 s&w)
  • What type and brand of primer do you use?
  • How many times do you typically reload a brass case? I have once-fired brass and have heard it can be loaded up to 25 or 30 times. Is this accurate?
I know most/all of this info will be in my reloading manuals, but I want to have a basic knowledge of what works in real life before I start reading manuals.

Thanks in advance!

-###XX
 
The bullet is the most expensive part of reloading, the only bullets that I buy are hunting bullets and I make all my own lead bullets for handguns.

As far as longevity of brass, I have some brass that has reached 15 reloads and counting. Semi-auto anything, rifle or pistol is always hard on brass so your experience will vary depending on how mild or wild you want to load. Revolvers are very easy on brass and some of my mild .44 mag loaded brass has passed the 40 reload mark.

4.9 grn of bullseye works fine if I am loading 230 gn. rn lead bullets, good accuracy and not so hard on the hand. Lots of people like W231, Unique works fine for me also.

For my H&G #68 200 gn. Lead SWC I use 5.0 gn of W231 and about the same with unique, nice pleasant round and accurate as all get out.
 
Hunter64,

Thanks for the info... I guess it makes sense that revolvers would be much easier on brass--they're much less punishing than the extractors on semi's.

Does the 4.9gr of bullseye basically fill the cartridge? I mean, would it be impossible to double-charge without noticing? Double loads are my biggest deterrent from reloading. I know I can focus, but eventually I'm bound to mess up.

Where do you source the lead for making your own bullets? I know some of the guys at the club use molds and whatnot and cast their own as well. I've been curious where they get all their lead :p

Another thing, would you say it's better for "enjoyability" to shed some powder, or use a lighter projectile?
 
Primer: magnums not necessary
Brass: lasts ridiculously long
Bullet: lead is cheaper, needs less powder. In my Norinco 1911, it takes about 30 seconds to clean all the lead out of the barrel after a day of shooting.
Powder: unless you get a slower burner, you probably won't fill the case. I've experimented with Bullseye, Unique, Win 231, and Universal in 45acp. They all do the job.

I currently use 5 grns of Win231 behind a 200 grn lead SWC like hunter64. It has a bit less recoil compared to full power 230 grn loads, but I could shoot either one all day.

If you're just getting into reloading, you might want to start with purchased lead bullets instead of casting them yourself. One less thing to learn from the start.
 
I'm using 185 gr JSWC over 5.8 gr N 320. The JSWC makes a nice hole in the target and N 320 is very clean burning. This combo won't appeal to the frugal but it delivers a set of benefits you can only get when you reload.

This particular combo makes IPSC major through a 3 7/8" barrel (yep they exist) so you may be able to load lighter for your particular purposes.
 
4.5 grains of Bullseye behind a 200 grains SWC - H&G 68 style.
Best is to use lead bullet but you can also use the Hornady # 45157 200 SWC FMJ.
This is a nice- very accurate load for target. The 200 SWC feed perfectly.OAL should be 1.250
If you use the Hornady you can increase charge to 5.0 grains of bullseye and make major with it.

I buy the 200 lead SWC at the Club de Tir de Ville St Pierre in Montreal for 50$ a 1000. The Hornady at Higginson by the case of 1900.
 
Lead is getting harder to come by. A lot of the big chain tire shops have stopped selling there used wheel weights because head office has sent a memo saying "No more selling other than to a license recycler". I have a regular "Trap line" of smaller independent tire shops that I visit every month and sometimes I get them for free and other times I have to pay a small amount. Most tire shops that will sell lead to you charge about 35-45 bucks per 5 gallon pale. Once the lead has been reclaimed you get about 80-95 lbs of lead that you can use out of a full 5 gallon pale. Lead prices have come back a bit in the last while but you wouldn't know it from calling a recycler. I have a life time supply for me and my kids and my future grand kids now on hand but I still keep the trap line going because in the near future all wheel weights will be going to steel/zinc and there won't be any more lead weight, they have been outlawed in Europe for a few years now. The only draw back I see from amassing a large quantity of lead is if I ever move I am screwed,lol.
 
4.1gr Clays or 5.1 bullseye pushing a 200 gr. lead bullet. Works ok for me and i've never bothered with the mag. primers, these work fine as Large pistol primers (i've got brass that use small 2)

M.
 
200 gr swc with 5.0 to 5.8 grns ww231 regular large pistol primer. Low end is good plinking load that will cycle all guns i've ran it in. and the high end is good for IPSC major and above. I cuurently load 5.4 for my CDP load.
Andy
 
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