458 Claims Another Action Wrench.............

I think I would prefer an outside wrench clamped in place on a Ruger cast action. The same for 98 actions. A strip of brass between the steel wrench and the action... clamped firmly but not so tight to compress on the threads. All the Ruger bolts actions I have done were easy with the flat areas.
 
If the barrel is pewched, slide a nut over the barrel and tack it on there.
Find a bigger nut to slip over the last nut and weld it on there too.
Then git yer box end wrench on there and smack it with a dead blow hammer.
 
I have come across the odd Garand barrel/receiver combo that would give me trouble when installing. The round handle on the Brownell's action wrench was to short to get the required leverage and I was concerned about bending a length of pipe used as an extension. I picked up a 4' long piece of 1 1/4" square stock and built this. A little more pressure and a nice flat edge for using a BFH.


 
For Rems I have never been defeated, internal wrench and epoxy barrel vice bushing with some rosin on it and my vice has only two clamping screws. For odds and ends I have a set up similar to Falover and protect the top of the action with an alu shim. It is possible to squeeze the action so tight that it makes it much harder to break free so once it starts to move loosen off the wrench if still tight.
 
I am not a gunsmith but I have run my own equipment and kept it all running. I would cut the barrel off just ahead of the receiver. Cut a groove in the chamber wall with a carbide cutter and a die grinder. Find a long bolt that will just fit into the chamber. Insert the bolt in through the receiver until it is just below being flush. Weld most of the way around the bolt but not the groove. This should shrink the barrel. A half inch impact on the bolt head should rattle it right out.
 
if you go to a truck spring shop, they should have some heavy steel flat stock to make your own custom wrench at a reasonable price... often 5160 steel which would easily do the job
-just cut out the wrench head on the bandsaw and file it so its tight on the action... take it back to the spring shop and have them heat treat it if you really want to go all out

i've made one for a m1a action that worked well (but thats not a difficult one to twist a barrel off )
 
Neither the barrel nor action are hooped on this rifle and the whole point of buying a donor in 458 was to reuse the barrel and just rechamber it. I am not prepared to sacrifice either one at this point, and I know all about the relief cut forward of the recoil lug but am unwilling to do this to this barrel. I will get it apart.........sooner or later and one way or another without sacrificing either........hopefully !!!!
 
c-fbmi said:
Yep BUM, then I could just use my 36" Crescent wrench..........wont break that f**ker off............You always come up with such helpful hints...........:rolleyes::rolleyes:

OR I could just weld the outside wrench onto the action and grind it off after I get it off the barrel...............
Click to expand...

Good old "superjustable" works great for actions and everything else. I straightened the whole rear end of a bravo with mine in one tweak.
 
another non gunsmith food for thought... When I am pulling broken bolts. I always try to heat the bolt... heat the #### out of it, and let cool. I will repeat this till it works.. helps on galled threads loctite . Ive used it from 1/4 to 3'' . Obviously i am a little less concered with final appearance of anything i am working on compared to my beautiful firearm.
Just always found the expansion and then contraction of dimensional upset helped me out the best.
 
Nope it's not done yet Ian..........however progress has been made as I have a piece of .400 thick spring stock (5160) from Standens and will be cutting and grinding to shape shortly............I have been busy putting up gates on my 3 driveway entrance way........you've no doubt heard the wise old saw ........"Good fences, make good neighbors"
 
Guestion just how much heat will a barrel ring take before it looses it's temper. Another question is did you try and tighten it a bit before un tighting it.
 
I was in at the local Do All shop waiting to get a couple of hydraulic hoses made up. As I was looking at the selection of WD-40 and other stuff I spotted an aerosol can of some kind of freeze, the can showed a picture of squirting it on a seized bolt to shrink it to allow it to be removed. There claim was -45c. I thought of c-fbmi when I read the can. I have no idea whether this stuff works . How about this ? Put a stopper in the chamber just ahead of the receiver ring , apply a bit of heat to the out side ( I stop just whet spit begins to sizzle ) ,shoot some of this freeze stuff in to the chamber and giver another go.
 
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