50-70 govt
- Thread starter burns k31
- Start date
I have had 3, one rolling block, a trapdoor Springfield which had been factory sleeved to 50-70 and currently a Sharps which has been sleeved with a rolling block barrel. The problem I have found with original barrels is the chamber which has too long of a throat. I initially tried using the government pattern slug which was inaccurate because of the chamber / throat. I could not seat the slug out far enough to come close to the rifling. I now use a Loverin style bullet which has several narrow grease grooves and a blunter point. The net effect is that the Loverin slug is closer to the rifling and accuracy improved noticeably. My only regret is that I traded off my rolling block because I had not run across a Loverin style mold at that time. The trapdoor I traded off because it shot a lot high and several inches left at 100 yards
cheers mooncoon
Two of my Shiloh rifles are 50-70s, a Military Rifle (Farmingdale) and a current (B) carbine. I shoot the Lyman 515141/450 sized .510 with 65 grs of Goex FFg.
I bought the Meacham neck sizing die to aid in gripping the bullet, which gives the cases a slight bottle neck. I use Lyman dies and have brass by Star Line, BELL Bertram and DGW.
The late Dave Higginbotham(?) of Lone Star rifles recommended the calibre to me when I told him I wanted a calibre for hunting and Cowboy Action Shooting. He said that the same amount of lead and powder that would produce noticeable recoil in a 45-70 would produce less in a 50-70 of similar weight. He was right. Bigger bore = less pressure.
To date the my 50-70s have dropped two 400+ lb black bears and a six point Mule Deer. That was with the MR. The carbine is unblooded as yet but hits 28 oz. tomato cans off hand at 100m. I enjoy shooting Rapine 375 gr bullets from the carbine for even less recoil. Both the MR and carbine shoot well with 28 grs of 5744, hitting the same point of aim and the BP loads.
If you have an original, get a copy of Croft Barker's "The 50-70 Shooter's Handbook". He 'splains all the issues associated with the bore size and rates of twist. The Military Rifle has a 1x36" twist, the carbine 1x26" which will effectively stabilize 600 gr bullets if you enjoy having the snot beat out of you. It has a left hand rifling, the rifle a right hand twist. Don't ask me why the difference.
I bought the Meacham neck sizing die to aid in gripping the bullet, which gives the cases a slight bottle neck. I use Lyman dies and have brass by Star Line, BELL Bertram and DGW.
The late Dave Higginbotham(?) of Lone Star rifles recommended the calibre to me when I told him I wanted a calibre for hunting and Cowboy Action Shooting. He said that the same amount of lead and powder that would produce noticeable recoil in a 45-70 would produce less in a 50-70 of similar weight. He was right. Bigger bore = less pressure.
To date the my 50-70s have dropped two 400+ lb black bears and a six point Mule Deer. That was with the MR. The carbine is unblooded as yet but hits 28 oz. tomato cans off hand at 100m. I enjoy shooting Rapine 375 gr bullets from the carbine for even less recoil. Both the MR and carbine shoot well with 28 grs of 5744, hitting the same point of aim and the BP loads.
If you have an original, get a copy of Croft Barker's "The 50-70 Shooter's Handbook". He 'splains all the issues associated with the bore size and rates of twist. The Military Rifle has a 1x36" twist, the carbine 1x26" which will effectively stabilize 600 gr bullets if you enjoy having the snot beat out of you. It has a left hand rifling, the rifle a right hand twist. Don't ask me why the difference.
Sharps 63 - interesting info on rifling twists. My 1859 carbine barrel, lined and chambered for .50/70 CF in the 1867 conversion contract, has a 42" twist. It shot the full length 450gr. #515141 bullet not too badly, but with some tipping at 200yards, but was better with the same mould reduced to a 420gr. of 7/10" inch from the original .920" bullet. These, with a duplex load of 10gr. IMR3031 under 60gr. 2f GOEX made a couple 5-shot 3" groups at 100 meters off a bench, hand held over bags. I pulled the original barrel off the Italian "in-the-rough' Sharps 1968 action I bought I finished in the 80's (re-shaped more like an 1874 Sharps action) & installed a .45 cal. GM barrel of 35" length.
I did note the chamber will accept a case length of 1.9". I read about this somewhere, but cannot remember where that was. When I made brass using .348 (yeah- they are under size & expand a lot) I was able to make 1.9" cases for the rifle, which helped accuracy.
Here's the carbine. I had the action "Metaloyed" here in PG. The shop who did this is not closed down. Although I've re-barreled the action, I kept the original barrel as it's in excellent condition inside, however was re-browned.
New Barrel and forend.
I did note the chamber will accept a case length of 1.9". I read about this somewhere, but cannot remember where that was. When I made brass using .348 (yeah- they are under size & expand a lot) I was able to make 1.9" cases for the rifle, which helped accuracy.
Here's the carbine. I had the action "Metaloyed" here in PG. The shop who did this is not closed down. Although I've re-barreled the action, I kept the original barrel as it's in excellent condition inside, however was re-browned.
New Barrel and forend.
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I have an original falling block (New York ?) that shoots well. I have used it on targets and on some jack rabbit hunts - use enough gun! It is one of the few guns I am going to keep in my clean out of stuff.
