5r 223 Action Reciever Threads Help

Rivardo

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My front action screw seems like it was poorly threaded. Im having a hard time starting the front action screw. Has anyone dealt with this before? I cant turn the front screw in buy hand. I used an ellen k but I don't wanna have to force it and it took more pressure than im comfortable with turning it .... has anyone chased the threads with a 1/4-28 tap or is there another way to clean it up? thanks
 
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You can chase the threads with a 1/4x28 tap... make sure it starts correctly to keep the threads in line... make sure the screw isn't dinged up.

Then make sure your bedding is such that the front hole is in line with the bottom metal. Often the recoil lug needs to be further back in the bedding so screws line up and don't bind when installed and tightened ...
 
You can chase the threads with a 1/4x28 tap... make sure it starts correctly to keep the threads in line... make sure the screw isn't dinged up.

Then make sure your bedding is such that the front hole is in line with the bottom metal. Often the recoil lug needs to be further back in the bedding so screws line up and don't bind when installed and tightened ...

thanks. I think I will replace the action screws with new ones. It seems the hole may be a little too far forward......this one is in an mdt ess chassis.....maybe sand the recoil lug area down a bit?
 
sorry my wording wasn't great but that's what I meant not the recoil lug itself :)


If you do that ... will you end up with a problem with the rear action screw being too tight against the rear of its hole? .... maybe before you relieve the recoil lug area .. you may want to examine your options again ... you may just want to open up/relieve the stock hole a little ... time to do some carefull measurements I think before cutting, drilling or sanding.... I think....

In any event the action screws should not bear against the stock when the recoil lug is fully seated/set up against the stock...
 
If the front guard screw doesn't line up well I would relieve the recoil lug bedding a lot and rebed with the action holes in alignment with the holes in the stock.

I remove the trigger and have two headless actions screws that I screw into the receiver and use these to line up everything when I bed an action with the bottom metal in place. My experience has been the vast majority of stocks need more clearance on the recoil lug in order to do this.
 
If the front guard screw doesn't line up well I would relieve the recoil lug bedding a lot and rebed with the action holes in alignment with the holes in the stock.

I remove the trigger and have two headless actions screws that I screw into the receiver and use these to line up everything when I bed an action with the bottom metal in place. My experience has been the vast majority of stocks need more clearance on the recoil lug in order to do this.


Maybe .. before Rivardo does this ... we should ask if the rear action screw threads in without interference. The action screw holes may not be spaced correctly in this chassis for his action.....

(to add - Assuming of course it isnt just buggered threads..)
 
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If you look up "Tactical Teacher" he sells action screws for the Rem 700 pretty cheap. Great great guy to deal with.
 
Maybe .. before Rivardo does this ... we should ask if the rear action screw threads in without interference. The action screw holes may not be spaced correctly in this chassis for his action.....

(to add - Assuming of course it isnt just buggered threads..)

I seriously doubt it is the hole spacing in the action at fault... I think it is all a front screw alignment problem... but until the OP reports back we won't know.
 
so I picked up a 1/4 28 tap and was able to thread it in with my finger and thumb. It cleaned all the little burrs out and the action screws thread in and out like butter! From further inspection it actually appears that the recoil lug is rotated pushing the the barrel/action to the side and moving the action hole out of line with the chassis. I think I am gonna have someone reset the recoil lug..... basically loosen the barrel put the lug where it should be and tighten it up......
 
From further inspection it actually appears that the recoil lug is rotated pushing the the barrel/action to the side and moving the action hole out of line with the chassis. I think I am gonna have someone reset the recoil lug..... basically loosen the barrel put the lug where it should be and tighten it up......

The recoil lug should have clearance on the front, sides and bottom... just inlet the stock to do this... simplest fix...
 
The recoil lug should have clearance on the front, sides and bottom... just inlet the stock to do this... simplest fix...

I picked up a chassis so I could rotate a couple barreled actions in it. if I grind it out and bed it it kinda defeats the purpose of having a chassis that is not suppose to require bedding... ..is it common that these lugs are out of parallel with the action holes? also isn't it a rather simple operation to unscrew a barrel and tighten it back up?
 
I picked up a chassis so I could rotate a couple barreled actions in it. if I grind it out and bed it it kinda defeats the purpose of having a chassis that is not suppose to require bedding... ..is it common that these lugs are out of parallel with the action holes? also isn't it a rather simple operation to unscrew a barrel and tighten it back up?

Level your barreled action in a vise... use a level on the trigger housing, the bottom of the recoil lug should be square to the trigger housing.

I have a jig that locates the recoil lug square to the action... factory 700s line up the vast majority of the time.

If you have a barrel vise and an action wrench the action can be loosened, the lug indexed and everything tightened up... something most smiths can do.
 
I picked up a chassis so I could rotate a couple barreled actions in it. if I grind it out and bed it it kinda defeats the purpose of having a chassis that is not suppose to require bedding... ..is it common that these lugs are out of parallel with the action holes? also isn't it a rather simple operation to unscrew a barrel and tighten it back up?
its not extremely unusual... I have a model 600 with the lug slightly cocked from perpendicular...its apparent even without using a level. I would do as Guntech suggests and have a gunsmith adjust it for you....otherwise...I think you are right...the next action probably wont need adjustment and you will have screwed around with your chassis. Possibly effecting its resale value if you ever decide to flog it.
 
Level your barreled action in a vise... use a level on the trigger housing, the bottom of the recoil lug should be square to the trigger housing.

I have a jig that locates the recoil lug square to the action... factory 700s line up the vast majority of the time.

If you have a barrel vise and an action wrench the action can be loosened, the lug indexed and everything tightened up... something most smiths can do.


Yeah and when the barrel is off rechamber it in 223ai ;) I saw your 223ai on the ee can you pm me your contact info pls
 
its not extremely unusual... I have a model 600 with the lug slightly cocked from perpendicular...its apparent even without using a level. I would do as Guntech suggests and have a gunsmith adjust it for you....otherwise...I think you are right...the next action probably wont need adjustment and you will have screwed around with your chassis. Possibly effecting its resale value if you ever decide to flog it.

Exactly what I was thinking to :)
 
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