6.5/284 Rebarrel (lots of pics)

Dave42

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I decided to rebarrel my 6.5 today so I took some pics as I went. Turned out not to bad so I thought I'd share. I'm not a professional gunsmith but this is not my first barrel job either.

Not looking for any input just wanted to share, so enjoy.


Here's most of what I needed to do the work. I had already trued the action for the first barrel so I don't have any pics of that.
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I masked off the barrel to prevent scratches or any denting from the jaws.
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The next two pics show a little of what I do to ensure the barrel is true in the lathe. I didn't show much of how I do it (trade secret);) but I will say that this is where I spend a lot of time, the rest is pretty easy.
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It's critical to ensure that the barrel is under .0005" true to the bore before cutting threads and chambering.
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Parting off the barrel stamp.
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You can see how true the bore is as the parting tool comes through the steel.
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A sketch to make sure I don't F up!!
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Cutting the shank just enough to allow the lug to fit.
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Set up thread bit and cutting threads.
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Test fit the action.
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Cutting the bolt recess.
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Making sure the bolt fits properly.
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Reaming the chamber. This step takes some time. I only use finish reamers so I never take more than .100" cuts between cleaning and grease.
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Measuring the action headspace. I didn't get a good pic of the headspace gauges being used. This part takes a little time and I was more worried about getting the headspace right than taking pictures, sorry:redface:.
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Finished chamber. I cut chamber about .005" deeper than my measurement. That allows for a little bit of crush when the action is tightened and leaves me with a headspace of around .003" - .002".
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A quick polish of the chamber and break the edges. Barrel is ready to come out.
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Flip to the muzzle end and true the barrel back up in the lathe. Easier said than done. Took me about an hour to actually do it. Part off the last inch of the muzzle. Not a good idea to use the last inch of barrel.:(
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Cutting the threads for the brake.
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Missed a few pics here. I also put an 11deg crown on, broke the edge slightly and lapped it with 600 grit compound. A good crown is very important.

A finished pic of the brake blended to the barrel.
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A quick polish to make everything look good and she's all done.
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Here it is all dressed up again.
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I managed to finish up early enough to do a quick break in and do some initial load development. This is a load that I’ve used in the past and this barrel seems to shoot it pretty well. About 1/3MOA at 300m.
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Thats it!:cheers:
 
That is some really nice work.

Gotta ask, why does the barrel in the first picture appear to be bent? I had to hold a ruler up to the screen just to be sure I was seeing straight.
 
Wow very nice!

I'm not gonna lie, when I saw the barrel in the first pic I was like " wtf! That's things bent to $hit!!!". Took me about 3 minutes of stairing at it befor I could see it was just the way the light hit it
 
looks good dave, another shooter by the looks of it. quick question, do you throat your chamber seperately or is your reamer ground with the throater on it? one last thing, what torque do you install your barrels to? or is it just "snug"?
 
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Yes it is bent I put a five degree bend in the barrel then index it to the high side of the rifle. This helps with muzzle jump and also gives me a lot more elevation to work with at longer distances.

Bingo, when ordering stalk reamers and using heavy bullets I use a throat reamer to allow further bullet seating. However, I ordered this reamer custom and had it set up with the proper throat length.
 
Yes it is bent I put a five degree bend in the barrel then index it to the high side of the rifle. This helps with muzzle jump and also gives me a lot more elevation to work with at longer distances.

April fools, hahaha
 
Yes it is bent I put a five degree bend in the barrel then index it to the high side of the rifle. This helps with muzzle jump and also gives me a lot more elevation to work with at longer distances.

April fools, hahaha

Darn. Was hoping to get somebody with that one! I was also going to say it helps me shoot around trees.

I've used up to 52grns with no issues. Velocity will be somewhere around 3000fps with a 30" barrel.

The bottom metal is a kwik clip w/10 round mag. Not fancy but works surprisingly well for the price.

When it comes to barrel torque I go snug with an 18" wrench. Unless it's a fluted barrel, then I might go a little more or less to get the flutes to look good.
 
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I would assume you also put an indicator down the bore while truing it in the lathe, and not just by the OD of the barrel? If not, how did you measure to make sure the bore was actually concentric with the OD of the barrel?
 
I would assume you also put an indicator down the bore while truing it in the lathe, and not just by the OD of the barrel? If not, how did you measure to make sure the bore was actually concentric with the OD of the barrel?

I see what you are saying now, you need a reamer bushing though.
 
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