6.5X55 Mauser ????

stevey3737

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Hi guys I have had this mauser for about 15 years and have shot it a few times i received it exactly how it is now so don't hate me for "sporterizing" lol
I was wondering if anyone had any insight into the origin of it maybe ballpark on its worth wether i should be taking better care of it or taking what i can get and movin on you know all the normally asked questions
I am going to try to post my photobucket album all at once so here goes
thanks for any insight
-Steve
http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/mm39/steve_sherry/Mauser/
 
You have an early 1896 Mauser model 96, made by Carl Gustav. At the time it was Sweden's government arsenal. If the bore is as good as the disc indicates, it should be an excellent shooter. It is worth about $175 in its present condition. Even if you replace the stock with a full length original, neither it nor the other missing parts will be matching. The chances of getting the money you put into it back out are minimal at best. Maybe $325.

IMHO, if that were my rifle, I would have the barrel cut back to a more managable length, remove the back sight and have the receiver drilled and tapped to accept scope bases. Then put on a decent scope. That rifle probably won't shoot bullets lighter than 140 grains very well but there are a few exceptions. It is a good cartridge for anything from coyotes to Moose. It may be over 100 years old but it's still hard to beat. A very well designed rifle and cartridge combination.
 
It is a Swedish Model of 1896 Mauser rifle in their old military calibre, 6.5x55. You are awfully lucky in that the barrel has not been cut; this one can be restored.

Last I looked, Trade-Ex had a couple of stocks and some handguards for this rifle. They also have bullets and brass for handlading the ammunition.

It is one of the ideal rifles for competition in military-style matches: fast action, very nearly the perfect cartridge for short ranges or anything out to 1,000. Ammo is easy to handload and it is one of the most accurate cartridges ever designed.

Apart from that, there's not really a lot to say. It will drop anything in North America at a pinch: that big, long bullet has amazing penetration compared to most other cartridges. For a fast antelope cartridge, handload with 120-gain slugs use 140s for deer or caribou, 160 for moose or elk (and bring a BIG stew pot!). Frankly, I would NOT want to be on the wrong end of one of these.

Recoil is not much of a problem, either; the round is quite mild in comparison with silly things such as the .308W.

I think if I owned it, I would kit it out with fresh factory wood for a wallhanger/target rifle, save the woodwork you have for hunting season: lighter.

BTW, the disc in the butt gives you the condition of the bore and rifling as of the rifle's last inspection. Most of these are VERY good.

They were made by the original Mauser factory in Germany from 1896 through 1899, possibly even later, and at the Swedish Carl Gustaf arsenal from 1899 onward, mostly prior to 1918 but in dribs and drabs until the new rifle came out in 1938..... on the same action nd in he same calibre, just a shorter barrel.

You have a Fine Toy.

Hope this helps.
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m96 Swedish Mauser

As mentioned, you have a 1896 Model Swedish Mauser Military rifle that has been sporterized.

It was made in 1898, really the first full year that Carl Gustafs got into production. Serial numbers in that year were 3324 to 20093, so your rifle would probably have been made in late 1898.

The Inspector's initials, OG, is Olof Darling Gibson, who was stationed at Carl Gustafs in 1898 to 1902.

It would not take too much to put this rifle back into original condition, as no major modifications have been done to it (except the stock).

The steel formula was never changed in these rifles, so a 1898 rifle has the same quality steel as later ones. It might be a bit more desireable because of the date.

As an aside here, my FSR rifle with target sights is an 1898 Carl Gustafs, and it will shoot nicely into three inches from a prone position at 200 meters.f It is in the 18,### range of serial numbers.

The 140 or 156-160 grain bullets are usually more accurate in these rifles due to the rifling twist of the barrel.
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Thanks to every one i am thinking i may well find a new stock for it and restore it but i am noticing on a full length stock there are two bands on the end one where mine is and another closer to the front sight is this correct and if so where could i find one? i think it would be hard to hold it all together without it no?? and thanks again you all have been a big help!!
-Steve
 
Steve,
As stated in the previous comments, you are fortunate that only the furniture has "seen the hand of Bubba". Original military stocks and parts are available through Tradex including the barrel bands. If you have any problems finding parts, send me a pm and I can forward you some contacts.
Also if you are seriously considering getting into Swedish Mauser collection / restoration, I would suggest that you purchase "Crown Jewels" The Swedish Mauser by Dana Jones. An excellent "accurate" reference book on the Swedes.
Best of luck with your project.
 
Steve, I am so glad you have decided to restore. Even if you can't get it fully and truly authentic to those with the most discriminating eye's ("...or should I say, e-eye").

(I know of more than one would be aficionado that's been poked in, "the e-eye", for professing to be an authority and criticizing at the wrong time, particularly over Mauser's).

We're all out to have fun here and enjoy the sport, the more authentic you can get it the better, but a person can take pride and pleasure in getting it close and then appreciating that the finer things can come over time. When the little tid-bits that make it more and more authentic eventually role in, it should be recognized as an accomplishment.

And a good Swed should never be cut back. There are carbines out there already and why would anyone want to hack off a length of perfectly good barrel, anyway?

(Hell, I didn't even like it when I found out I was circumcised - especially without my own permission).
 
I figured that I would stir a few people up with my comments. Stevey3737 has had the rifle for 15 years. He obviously bought it as a sporter to be used as such. In his OP, he wasn't exactly clear about what he wanted to do with the rifle.
As we all know, bringing these old war horses back to their original splendor is a labor of love and in most cases we never recoup the costs of such endeavors.
From the original post, the poster was more concerned that he had a rifle of considerable monetary value. He doesn't. At todays prices, he will never get more than $325 out of that rifle unless he finds someone that really wants it badly enough to pay a premium for it.
Finishing the civlianisation of the rifle in such a case is a viable option. We're not talking about a rare specimen here or about destroying a valuable piece of history.

I don't like Bubba any more than the next person but in answer to the OP's question and seeing as he bought it as a sporter in the first place my advice to his post is relavent.

By the way, I hadn't been on the Tradex site for a while and didn't notice the Swede stocks/parts available and at very reasonable prices. The last Swede stock set I saw at a local gunshow, went for $90 without bands or a butt plate.
 
Hi guys thanks again to everyone i never purchased this rifle i had it given to me by a friend, I am not to crazy either way but I do like restoring things i like a project. To sell it wouldn't hurt my feelings and i never figured it was an expensive rifle i just figured if i was to sell it that i needed a base price to start and i got that. Its just so huge and i was thinking maybe i could use the room in my safe for something more usefull to me but as i see on tradex to bring it to something that resembles stock will be quite easy to do and cheap maybe i will go that route than sell it i don't know my problem is once i finish with a project i am bored with it, it happens all the time i never give this rifle a second though until you guys pointed out that restoring is an option now i am intrigued and want to start it but again i know once i am done it will just be a safe dweller so hmmmm.
descisions descisions............. thanks guys
 
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Stevey3737. If you are really going to restore it, don't procrastinate on buying the parts. They won't be around for a long time. These parts don't come up for sale often and when they do, they are very limited in numbers.

Also, before you start your restoration, keep the sand paper away from the rifle and stock. Get in touch with some of the restorers here if you need assistance. Do it right or you are just wasting your money. If you have dents in the wood, steam them out with an iron and wet cloth, don't scrape or sand them. If you have cracks, use a good glue and use it sparingly. If you have to cut out a break to patch, do it right. Go onto the Milsurps Knowledge site for information on how to do it properly.

If you get the stock from Tradex, make sure you have the rear spacer/pillar etc.

Stay away from Tung Oil. Personally, if I see Tung Oil on a stock, I won't touch the rifle, even if it's an interesting piece. A very light swipe with 000000 steel wool will take off the feathers and then a coat of HOT boiled linseed oil will finish it nicely. That Swede model 96 is interesting in that it is one of the earliest Swede manufactured rifles. The real problem will come with the bands. On the earlier rifles, they were all serial numbered to the rifle. There are some un numbered pieces out there and I know that they were used as replacement parts at later times but they are from a later era. IMHO, perfectly acceptable.

Model 1896
Main article: Swedish Mauser
On November 3, 1893, the United Kingdom of Norway and Sweden adopted the 6.5x55 mm cartridge. As a result, the Swedes chambered their new service rifle and carbine, the m/94 and m/96 Mauser, in this round. The Swedish Mauser was manufactured relatively unchanged from 1896 to 1944, and the m/94 Carbine, m/96 Rifle, m/38 Short Rifle, and m/41 Sharpshooter models are known by collectors as "Swedish Mausers". They are often sought after by military service rifle shooters and hunters. A small initial batch of Model 96 rifles were built in Germany by Loewe and later DWM, with the remainder being manufactured under license by Sweden's state-run Carl Gustaf factory. The Type 38 carbine was produced by Husqvarna, with additional carbines being converted from Model 96 rifles.
"Swedish Steel" is a term for the steel used by the German Mauser, and later Swedish manufacturing facilities to make the M96 rifles. By chance, Swedish iron ore contains the proper percentages of trace elements to make good alloy steel. Thus, though lacking the industrial base necessary for mass producing steel and iron, the Swedish steel industry had developed a niche market for specialty high-strength steel alloys containing nickel, copper, and vanadium. Swedish steels were noted for their strength and corrosion resistance and especially suited for use in toolmaking, cutlery, and firearms. As a consequence, when Mauser was contracted to fabricate the some production runs of Swedish Mausers in Germany due to production delays, Sweden required the use of Swedish steel in the manufacturing process. The Swedish Ordnance Office continued to specify the same Swedish steel alloy in Swedish-made Mausers until the last new-production m/38 barrelled actions were completed in 1944.
 
Those are excellant rifles

Those swedes are great hunting rifles. That cartridge is outstanding and will kill almost anything on this planet. However because the swede kills with velocity not weight I would leave the barrel length as is un less the crown is buggered. Most importantly this is your rifle, do exactly what you need to to to get precisely the rifle that you want. As long as you don't comromise the safe operation, you will not be sorry. Happy shooting.
 
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