6.5x55 swede brass annealing question
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No annealing required for new brass... Typical commercial brass should be good for its service life (+/- 10 firings) before work hardening causes annealing to be needed.
Some of the foreign brass is quite hard to work (Privi Partisan, Bell, etc.) due to thickness and/or material spec. Some folks have resorted to annealing to soften the material. I've tried the Privi Partisan (headstamp NNY), I chucked it after one forming as I found it to be of poor quality.
Some of the foreign brass is quite hard to work (Privi Partisan, Bell, etc.) due to thickness and/or material spec. Some folks have resorted to annealing to soften the material. I've tried the Privi Partisan (headstamp NNY), I chucked it after one forming as I found it to be of poor quality.
"Does new brass have to be annealed b4 using?"
Not unless there's something wrong with it. Annealing old brass is only required if you have a tough time getting brass for oddball cartridges, and want to keep your brass working as long as possible. Or you're very, very cheap. lol. - dan
Not unless there's something wrong with it. Annealing old brass is only required if you have a tough time getting brass for oddball cartridges, and want to keep your brass working as long as possible. Or you're very, very cheap. lol. - dan
I used to use a F Class rifle in 6.5x55. Shot the barrel out with about 2,000 rounds. never had to anneal the brass.
In fact, I don't think any of the cases has even had a split neck yet.
If you form a case into another caliber, you might have to anneal brass. In my experience, the primer pocket lets go before the brass gets too hard.
In fact, I don't think any of the cases has even had a split neck yet.
If you form a case into another caliber, you might have to anneal brass. In my experience, the primer pocket lets go before the brass gets too hard.
