742 wrench

I tried that...can't budge it.... I thinned it out enough to get on the nut and down past the guide bars, and the jaws of the wrench just bend. First time I've ever had any trouble getting one apart.
 
steve-o1979 said:
I've destroyed 3 good wrenches so far
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It takes a lot to "bend" a open end snap on wrench. They are not good wrenches, they are arguably the best. Pawn shops often have them at half of retail. Or you can wait for the one from brownells, but I can guarantee you it's not stronger, but if it fits just right may do the job. My sets of snap on wrenches 1/4"-2 1/2" metric and standard have among the thinner open ends of the wrenches I have used hence my suggestion. The crows foot wrenches are even slimmer, and the angle wrenches somewhere in the middle. A 19mm with fit just a tiny bit tighter than a 3/4" .05thou, and can sometimes make a difference. Simply an option, My main set of snap on wrenches is over 20 years old and are still going strong. Look for the made in canada ones if you go to the pawn shop, cuz Canada rocks.
 
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When all else fails your probably going to have to resort to clamping the gun and using a pointy punch on the nut. You will mar the nut, but you'll most likely get it off. Fortunately, it can be cleaned up and the nut doesn't show anyway.

Also note that if you go to take out the bolt it is full of religious parts that will fly to Jesus as soon as they're released.
 
I've had several of them apart before... have just never had any trouble getting the barrel nut off. The gun is 40 years old and has never been apart... I'd say it's rusted on there a bit... can't be just factory red loc-tite holding it. I have plenty good wrenches that wouldn't bend, just they are too thick at the end... can just get the tip on the nut, and if I force it on any more I'm going to bend the guide bars.
Is there any reason I couldn't file a slot in each side of the end of the nut, so I can use something right across the end of the nut to get it started in turning ?... it wouldn't effect the way the spring and tube fits in, would it ?
 
shouldn't be a problem , you can always replace the nut if necessary. with the wood off try some sort of penetrating oil to work into the threads for a couple of days to see if that helps.
 
steve-o1979 said:
I've had several of them apart before... have just never had any trouble getting the barrel nut off. The gun is 40 years old and has never been apart... I'd say it's rusted on there a bit... can't be just factory red loc-tite holding it. I have plenty good wrenches that wouldn't bend, just they are too thick at the end... can just get the tip on the nut, and if I force it on any more I'm going to bend the guide bars.
Is there any reason I couldn't file a slot in each side of the end of the nut, so I can use something right across the end of the nut to get it started in turning ?... it wouldn't effect the way the spring and tube fits in, would it ?
Click to expand...

Thats what I used to do. That way with a drag link (thick slotted screwdriver type fitting) I could use a ratchet to get them on and off if I wanted to do a full tear down. Getting them off the first time, I used to use these

Irwin-USA-Pliers-Vise-grip-SDL452359402-1-a82fe.jpg


You could get them around the action bars, and really tighten them up, and I mean tight. I had a few you had to tap with a hammer to get loose. Once you got a half a turn or so they would come off easily. Then as you suggest a small square file across the top of the nut to make it like a spanner bit, and it was easy on an off there after.
 
Got the nut off... cut a notch in the end and gave it a few whacks with a punch. Now for my next question... the plastic dust cover that fits over the bolt is missing... other than the chance of something getting in there and fowling things up, there is no reason the rifle can't work without it, correct ?
 
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