7mm rem mag- 20 moa rail or not?

M

matthewpauls

Regular
Rating - 100%
134   0   0
Location
winnipeg
For my last 7mm I built I went right for the 20 moa rail with a 4.5 - 14 mark 4 with m1 turrets. I'm in the process of another one pushing 168 bergers at around 3000 fps. Do I even need that 20moa to stretch out to 1000? I'm going to use the same scope as the last one. Thanks guys. -matt
 
My computer tells me that using 7mm, 168gr Berger VLD match bullets and shooting at 3000fps, you need 21.14 MOA in elevation. And from what I see on the Leupold site, that scope has 100MOA of elevation, so I think you'd be fine without elevation built into the rail.
 
How much elavation does a guy burn up after he's sighted in? I'm assuming on average you'd have approx 50moa each way (up and down) with this scope, or am I wrong in thinking this? Either way looks like I won't need a taper but just a question, and thanks for the response!
 
Sorry, forgot to mention, that's if you are zeroed at 300yds, if zeroed at 100yds you'd need to go up 24.73 MOA. Still should be ok though :)
 
I used a Vx3 4.5-14x40 Long Range 30mm tube on my 7mm last year. 162gr Amax mildly loaded to 2830 fps, 28moa @ 1035y
 
SouthPaw700 said:
Sorry, forgot to mention, that's if you are zeroed at 300yds, if zeroed at 100yds you'd need to go up 24.73 MOA. Still should be ok though :)
Click to expand...

Your zero location does not change the MOA needed to make it to 1000 in absolute terms! Zero is a realitive thing. In order to figure out how much (approx) MOA needed to make it to 1000 set your zero to 0 yards and the height of your scope above bore to 0".
 
Regardless if you need 20 moa or not, I would still opt for a rail of some type for the flexibility it offers you. What if you decide one day that you want a scope with higher magnification and the scope's adjustment range isn't as generous as the one you've mentioned?

I use a Buach & Lomb (now bushnell) 4000 6x24 on my 7mmRM Sendero and I can tell you I'm very limited by the scope's adjustment range and I bought a EGW base to help over come that.
 
cam1936 said:
Your zero location does not change the MOA needed to make it to 1000 in absolute terms! Zero is a realitive thing. In order to figure out how much (approx) MOA needed to make it to 1000 set your zero to 0 yards and the height of your scope above bore to 0".
Click to expand...

Oh good tip, I didn't actually think to do that :) Thanks man.
 
Yup, you have to go and shoot your rifle to see what it does at long range. A sloped rail does no harm if you can arrange things so that you have a 100-200 yard zero with the scope's elevation adjustment bottomed out, or topped out depending on your point of view. But if you can't adjust the elevation lower than 6" high at 100 yards, your rig is less useful than it might be.
 
Well I would put on a 20 MOA rail, here's why. You gradually work everything out to achieve hits to 1000 yards then a friend invites you out to shoot 1200 yards and you question yourself if you have enough up. I think with a 20 moa rail you might be able to reach the 1 mile target, 1760 yards, what for many of us long range shooters is the final goal. Some even progress farther.
 
Well it's my hunting rig so I want to keep it light and I shouldn't really be shooting too much farther than 1000 at game so I think for ME it makes sense to go without for now. Thanks guys!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom