870 fore end removal

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I took apart an 870 the other day for the first time and realized that a special tool is required to remove the fore end. It costs 50 bucks. For 5 bucks you can get a 1 1/4" spade bit (flat wood drill bit) and clamp a pair of vice grips on it. Put some tape on the fore end protect it from tool marks.

I didn't really know where to put this, just wanted to share.

p.s. If you change from wood to synthetic rear stocks like i did, the bolts are different. The one for synthetic is a couple inches longer:mad:
 
sherlockbonez said:
You can also just use the bolt carrier, which is free with the gun.
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OK, I've seen this comment too often now, so I'm going to ask ... how do you go about using the bolt to remove the fore-end tube nut? Please explain in detail how you perform this task. What part of the bolt engages into the recess of the tube nut to twist it off the tube assembly? What do you use on the bolt for leverage? Vise grips?

I challenge you to actually try this and see if it is even remotely possible before you endorse the procedure.

... and people wonder why they have extraction and cycling issues with their gun and blame it on how crappy Remington shotguns are.

For the right job, you need the right tool.

Fore-end tube nuts are tightened at the factory so they don't come apart easily. To think they can be removed easily with even with the proper tools, you obviously haven't had enough experience on the subject.

People usually get the message they need help when they realize they've bent the tube assembly beyond repair and still can't remove the fore-end. Try doing that with the bolt and you'll need a new extractor too.
 
easy said:
? What do you use on the bolt for leverage? Vise grips?

I challenge you to actually try this and see if it is even remotely possible before you endorse the procedure.

For the right job, you need the right tool.

Fore-end tube nuts are tightened at the factory so they don't come apart easily. To think they can be removed easily with even with the proper tools, you obviously haven't had enough experience on the subject.
.
Click to expand...

I've done this dozens of times, it's easy, don't need vise grips. Every bolt and screw on the gun was tightened at the factory, so..... saying I can't tighten it adequately?

Never had an issue with the forend after taking apart and back togther with the bolt carrier.

Yes, there is a right tool for every job, but if we bought them, we'd all have >$40,000 in tools sitting the garage. Sometimes you just have to make do with what you have at the time. (Pssst sometimes I use a 13/16" socket instead of a 21mm)

If you don't want to use the bolt carrier, a flat piece of steel will work just fine....
 
easy said:
OK, I've seen this comment too often now, so I'm going to ask ... how do you go about using the bolt to remove the fore-end tube nut? Please explain in detail how you perform this task. What part of the bolt engages into the recess of the tube nut to twist it off the tube assembly? What do you use on the bolt for leverage? Vise grips?

I challenge you to actually try this and see if it is even remotely possible before you endorse the procedure.

... and people wonder why they have extraction and cycling issues with their gun and blame it on how crappy Remington shotguns are.

For the right job, you need the right tool.

Fore-end tube nuts are tightened at the factory so they don't come apart easily. To think they can be removed easily with even with the proper tools, you obviously haven't had enough experience on the subject.

People usually get the message they need help when they realize they've bent the tube assembly beyond repair and still can't remove the fore-end. Try doing that with the bolt and you'll need a new extractor too.
Click to expand...

Maybe if you spend as much time reading as you do typing, then you'll realize I said BOLT CARRIER, aka this piece
ht tp://www.auctionarms.com/closed/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9491550.0

You don't have to challenge me to try it because I already done this and confirm it works. No vise, I did it with just my hands. No one is suggesting jamming the bolt down there.

I'm not sure how someone is going to bend the mag tube to remove the forearm since you can take the entire assemble off the gun.
 
I had a fore-end removal tool that I used on an 870 I had lying around. I bent the #### out of the tool and it didn't budge the nut. I ended up getting a small punch and whacking the nut to free it up.
 
Easy makesa good point, and they the forend tool should be used and not the bolt carrier, its is very easy to damage the forend tube, just ask any remington gunsmith how many he sells a year.
No i,m not just saying this because i make one of these tooks to sell, simply put i made these because i was sic of seeing people damage their shotgun or forget to return my tool.
CP220
If you were trying to take off a wood stock, the issue could be the wood shrinking aroudn the tube.
I have at times had to bust off the old wood to put on new stuff.
bbb
 
I agree that a proper tool should be used, but unless you like to fidget with your fore end constantly, chances are this is going to be a one time deal and most gun nutz I know have their garage, basement and every corner of their house filled with gadgets and do-hickies already. The intent of the post starter was to post up alternatives to a fore arm tool, and the bolt carrier is just a quick way to do it with out going out and buying one, and it's not prone to get misplaced since it's there inside your gun already.

If someone is planning to change their fore end all the time, then I would hope they will go buy a right tool for it.

As for bend mag tubes, wouldn't one be inclined to remove the fore end off the gun before trying to remove the stock?
 
sherlockbonez said:
... I said BOLT CARRIER,...
Click to expand...

Ah, you mean "870 slide assembly". Gotcha. Those are a two piece assembly. Bend the base enough and you will separate them.

What is tight for you, is obviously not tight enough for me, or to spec. But if it's good enough for your gun, that's all right for me. :)

I can't afford not to use the right tool for the job the first time around and a bit anal about it.
 
I did an 870 forearm swap last night. I used a piece of .063 aluminum we had in the scrap bin at work. Made it up about 3 inches long and 1 1/4 inches wide. Hope these dimensions help others.

My original forend [1970 according to S/N] was on tight, but nothing that I would consider "reefed on". When I tightened my new forend down, I went to finger tight and then gave it a little more with the tool to snug it up and make sure all the adapters were fully seated.
 
easy said:
What is tight for you, is obviously not tight enough for me, or to spec. But if it's good enough for your gun, that's all right for me. :)
Click to expand...

Can you please enlighten us all as to what the torque spec is for the fore end nut?

I'd be more worried about over-tightening that fore end nut, because if it gets loose, just tighten it a bit more, voila. Not like it's a critical safety part or will fail catastrophically.
 
I change my fore end at least twice per year. I'm not so sure a CO would like my Surefire one during hunting season, and my Grizzly 12.5" is perfect for dogging the moose runs (go bushwhacking for an hour where a tornado hit a few years back. Slung on my back I can go anywhere without the gun getting hung up). I bought a tool, because it gives me torque, works, and I'm not going to wreck another part of the gun using that as a tool. I've spend enough damn money on guns and accessories, what's another little bit for a proper tool?
 
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