870 forearm issue - update!!

Plink

Plink

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Having a boating accident.
I want to change the furniture on one of my 870's and I've run into a snag.

I can't get the "nut" off that holds the forearm grip in place! It has two "slots" on either side of the tube, sort of like a castle nut, but with only two slots instead of 4. I can easily remove this part on my other 870, but can't budge it on the one I want to change the forearm on.

Is there a special tool to remove this, or is there another way to make a tool up to get the nut off without damaging the forearm wood?

TIA
 
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Get a small piece of pipe of the right inside diameter (around 1 inch or so if I remember) and then simply make a few cuts with a hack saw across the pipe to shape your two teeth and then remove about 3/16" of metal with a file leaving the teeth protruding....

I made one with a pipe nipple that I had that was threaded because it was handy but I had to detune the teeth it a bit with a small file...it works fine but a non threaded piece of pipe would be better!

If the nut is on tight it's good to remove the slide assembly from the gun so you don't risk twisting the action bars...I had a tight one and I put my home made tool in a vice and then turned the foreend assembly with both hands.

A longer pipe would be good then you could drill a hole perpendicular to the pipe and insert a rod to make a T-handle for torque.

870nuttool.jpg
 
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You can grind a socket of the appropriate size down to the same idea as Can-down did and be able to use a ratchet with it.
 
One nice thing with a pipe is you can tighten the nut back on with the foreend on the gun and adjust it so that it is centered on the barrel and not rubbing on one side or the other...I use large vise grips on the pipe.
 
Brownells

Plink said:
I want to change the furniture on one of my 870's and I've run into a snag. I can't get the "nut" off that holds the forearm grip in place! It has two "slots" on either side of the tube, sort of like a castle nut, but with only two slots instead of 4. I can easily remove this part on my other 870, but can't budge it on the one I want to change the forearm on. Is there a special tool to remove this, or is there another way to make a tool up to get the nut off without damaging the forearm wood? TIA
Click to expand...

You want a forend wrench. Like these:

REMINGTON/MOSSBERG FOREND WRENCH, Mfr: BROWNELLS
080870202.jpg

Wrench adapted from Remington factory design, with pilot that keeps “teeth” square to the forend nut, virtually eliminating damage to wrench, forend or forend nut. But, if one of the wrench teeth should ever break, turn the “sleeve” around, there’s another set. Models for Rem. 870 or Mossberg 500.

SPECS: Steel. 12 Gauge – 6¾" (17.1cm) long overall. 5" (12.7cm) long handle. 20 Gauge – 7-7/8" (20cm) long overall. 5" (12.7cm) long handle. Replacement Sleeve for 12 gauge only; sold 1 each.

Catalog page 415

MARK III FOREND WRENCH, Mfr: TOM MENCK
590016008.jpg

Prevents forend breakage when removing tube nuts. Slips over the forend tube to support it and the action bar(s). Fits Remington 870 12, 16 and 20 ga. large frame, 20 ga. lightweight, 28 ga. and .410 bore; Browning BPS 10, 12 and 20 ga.; Ithaca 37 12 and 20 ga., made since 1981; Mossberg 500 12 and 20 ga.; Winchester 1200/1300, all gauges; over 6.5 million guns!

SPECS: 6-9/16" (16.6cm) long. Blued 4140 steel. 12 oz. (340.2g).

Catalog page 416

SHOTGUN FOREND WRENCH, Mfr: GUN RUNNERS
634000023.jpg

Laser-cut, milled, steel handle is press fit to a machined, double-ended steel socket that lets you take the forend-retaining nut off without damaging, or removing, the forend. Socket teeth positively correspond with notches in the forend nut for effortless, scratch-and-dent-free removal. Separate 12, and 20 gauge wrenches fit Remington 870, Browning BPS, Ithaca 37 made since 1981, Mossberg 500, Winchester 1200/1300.

SPECS: Steel, black oxide finish. 12 ga. – 6" (15.2cm) long. Large End – 1.32" (3.3cm) outside diameter. Small End– 1.2" (3cm) outside diameter. 20 ga. – 6" (15.2cm) long. Large End – 1.3" (3.2 cm) outside diameter. Small End – 1.1" (2.7cm) outside diameter.

Catalog page 416
 
I just used a long pair of needle nose pliers, spread them open and put each end into the slot. Took a little bit of time but it came off without a hitch.
 
I got a piece of 1/8 flat bar 1 1/4" wide and about 3 inches long and used an adjustable wrench. That's all it takes.
 
Or you can use this high-tech, space age, super expensive tool that is only available to elite military teams, the spoon!

IMG_0738.jpg
 
I kind of like my Remington one better.

I brought in a 10 or 12 of these a few years ago. They went like hotcakes for 45$ a pop.

dsc00205d.jpg
 
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WHat is wrong with using the bolt carrier. It is a little small, but does the job perfectly.
 
drvrage said:
WHat is wrong with using the bolt carrier. It is a little small, but does the job perfectly.
Click to expand...

1. That doesn't work so good with a tightly screwed on nut.

2. You may have difficulty gettting the nut torqued enough to keep the forend from rotating on the forend tube.
 
With a factory tightened fore-end, most times, I have to clamp the whole unit in a vise to get the nut off even with a real wrench.

Holding it in one hand and wrenching with the other doesn't always works. :) Only when installed with a spoon I guess. :p :D
 
Yes, this one is on there REAL good. I intended on putting the "wrench" in the vise and turning the forearm around that.

Not sure if even that will be enough. I'd use heat on it, but then I'd burn the wood!! LOL
 
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