8mm/06

buzzmagoo

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So I got this rifle chambered in 8mm/06 in on a trade , custom sportarized Brno Mauser.I an wondering how hard would it be to fire form some 30/06 cases and load some rounds . Now by fire forming I mean shooting 30/06 out of this rifle recovering the casese them pulling some others for the powder/ propellent and then a 8mm projectile or would Could I just shoot 8mm cartridges ? Yes I realise that they are similar but not the same dimensions ( shoulder and length ) and its a little more involved than how I am explaining my thoughts. Another question what's the advantage to this wildcat chambering ? Any in sights would be helpful right now I am just kicking around ideas , I am not a hand loader ( no presses dies or powder measures) I understand the process just haven't done any . This most likely isn't a good trial cartridge to start with but its what I got . Thanks!:popCorn:
I have about 500,00 in it so don't need to spend that much for ammo .
 
Buzz If you are going to reload I assume you have located a set of 8mm-06 reloading dies. If not watch on E-bay they are for sale there quite often. I would suggest you NOT fire 30-06 rounds in your 8mm-06. You can use 1-fired 06 cases or new 30-06 cases. Simply run the brass through the 8mm-06 size die. This will open up the 308 neck to accept 323 dia bullets. Load and fireform. If you are going to shoot 150 gr bullets IMR 4064 is a very good powder. With 175 or 180 gr W760 is hard to beat. With 195 & 200 gr bullets IMR 4350 is good and RL17 is super. Start with recommended start loads and work up to a load that is safe and accurate in YOUR rifle. If you need more help shoot me an e-mail.
 
The 8mm-06 came about because when all the WW2 vets came home with their 8x57 Mausers they couldn't find ammo. By running a 30-06 reamer into the chamber they ended up with a gun they could shoot relatively easily. Neck up 30-06 brass, seat 8mm bullets, bingo. It's a good cartridge, I've had a few of them. Pushes a 200 gr bullet faster than the same weight in a 30-06 and makes a bigger hole. There were also improved versions that went a little faster yet (RCBS, Ackley, Gibbs). - dan
 
The 8mm/06 is a very underappreciated wildcat.

Where it really shines is with bullets of 200 grains or heavier. In strong actions such as the 98 Mauser this round can be loaded to 65,000psi without issues. That means you can really get some decent velocities with those heavy bullets, approaching 2900fps depending on barrel length and rate of twist. The on target energy is very close to or IMHO as good as the 338-06 or the 35 Whelan.

The loads given in the manuals, such as Hornady don't do this round justice. There are all sorts of reasons why they keep their pressures low, one of them being so many 93-95 Mausers were chambered in the venerable 8x57 and they are weaker with less safety features.

I used one for years as my primary go to rifle for Moose and Elk. It was more than up to the task. Powders in the IMR4350 range are a good place to start.

Remember, in WWII the 8x57 was loaded with a 150 grain bullet at 2900fps. Only the Europeans make such loads available. North American manufacturers purposely load the round down to around 40.000 psi in deference to the few rifles out there with .318 diameter bores.

Load that old girl up and take her out after the biggest game North America has to offer. Its abilities are very close to the magnums when it's fed a proper diet.

It has been my experience that most 98 Mausers chambered in 8x57 shoot their best when loaded with heavy bullets around the 196 grn weight. It seems to settle them down. Mind you that's what the twist rate they have was originally designed for.
 
Thanks for the information . Not to many reloaders of wildcats around me ,so your info is much appreciated​.IMG_20170615_195046.jpg heres what the old girl looks like. Some body put a lot of love to it( the for stock is carved with oak leaves and acorns ) nice high comb stock and cromed bolt( and yes she cycles real nice) didn't get the scope and rings with her they got sold off years ago.
 

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That's a lovely rifle. That 98 action should be very strong and able to withstand some pretty heavy loads. That stock is reminiscent of the sixties and early seventies. Lots of time and love went into that rifle. Great fiddleback grain as well.

With rifles that old, the wood should be pretty stable. If it were mine, I would take the action out of the stock, seal it properly inside and glass bed the action. That barrel isn't a milsurp unit either but rather a commercially manufactured piece. Check the twist rate. Lots of people that did such work back in the day went with 1-12 twist rates to get better accuracy and velocity from 150 to 175 grain bullets with flat bases, such as Norma offered.

Bases and rings shouldn't be a problem but you may have to find them online.

Whoever did the work on that old girl's stock was a very gifted amateur with a lot of patience. That will be a rifle that will do everything most modern offerings can do and in some cases even do it better.

If I were 20 years younger I would offer to purchase it from you.
 
I've used an ugly old "sporterized" 98 for years. I just ran 30-06 cases though a FL 30-06 die, then ran the case up into an 8x57 die enough to size the neck out, prime, powder, seat bullet with 8x57 die, done. I whacked a few whitetail deer using 150 gr Sierra PSP (forget which type). Got them all in the boiler room. Blew heart and/or lungs to smithereens.

It's been a while since I loaded any, but I use only nickel plated cases in order to recognize 8mm-06 cases. I remember having to be sure the inside of the neck had plenty of lube for the first sizing. After the first firing, I just resized the neck and maybe a wee bit more with the 8x57 FL die.

The whole thing is a real bush operation, as the old rifle sports a Fischer-Dietz 4 power scope ($10) and a cut down laminated military stock. No caps were on the scope when I acquired it, and has never had to be adjusted since I started shooting the rifle back in the 70's. She's not your ideal mountain rifle. ;)
 
The barrel and action looks to be all ready beded the stock follows the profile of the barrel pretty tightly . But there's only one way to find out,so to pull the action , remove bolt drop the magazine floor plate then unscrew that screw near the trigger guard? Tried to open the mag by pushing the detent but no go ( I didn't fiddle or force it) will have to retry with something more pointy . The barrel I kinda figured it wasn't original how would I find out the twist didn't see any stamps just the caliber is marked.
 
The whole trigger guard assy just drops out when you remove the front and rear guard screw. No need to muck around with the floorplate. you are going to have to get your feet wet wrt reloading, even if you get a buddy who has gear, you need a set of dies.
 
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