9mm FMJ: expand & crimp?

domyalex

domyalex

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So, just started reloading for 9x19 (first pistol caliber I reload).

From what I gather, case mouth expansion (and later crimping) are required for lead bullets. So, if I stick to jacketed ones, can I just avoid these steps?

The rounds seem to seat and chamber just fine; I do see the slight budge in the case starting at base of the seated bullet; would this be enough to prevent seat back?

Using Lee dies (carbide) and a 1911 (yes, in 9mnm, I know, heresy) if that makes any difference...

Thanks!
 
You'll still want to put a small bell mouth (very small) on each case to seat the bullet and then crimp. Be sure to use a taper crimp (not a roll crimp) as this cartridg headspaces on the case mouth.

Regards

Pm me if needed
 
i've loaded 9mm before and do expand the case mouth a little, it's just easier to get the bullets seated properly. go through all steps and you'll be sailing :D I used to load fmj, but why pay the extra $$ when shooting paper? unless you compete, lead is the way to go (if you're trying to save some money).
 
I do both, using a Lee factory crimp die to crimp - to me it's simply not worth skipping the crimp, even a very small amount of set back on the bullet can cause pressures to spike into the rifle cartridge range (which I'd rather avoid, I like my hands) and the rounds chamber very smoothly. I've yet to have a failure to feed, which I credit the crimp die for. I use the same type of die for 45 as well as 9mm, they're very cheap insurance. Failure to bell the case mouth (just a tiny bit) will sometimes cause the bullet (lead or jacketed) to tear open the case, especially with a progressive press, which can get messy. If you use both your success rate will be close to 100%, and between 45 and 9 I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds with no issues.
 
Domyalex, you may want to try plated bullets instead of jacketed. These are a lead bullet with a thin copper plating, sort of halfway between a lead round and a FMJ. More expensive than lead, less expensive than jacketed. Either way, a slight bell and crimp are necessary.
 
Belling is always required with standard pistol cartidges. You may be able to think you've gotten away without it, but you've likely compacted the case to a degree where it probably won't enter the chamber properly. Crimping, is not so much about preventing setback, which it does help with, but it's mainly about taking the bell out of the case mouth. In the case of the Factory Crimp dies, they resize the entire case, to ensure proper feeding. Probably not necessary for most, but doesn't hurt either, and some guns need the rounds sized down to the tightest specs.
 
The flare is required. Just enough to be able to sit the bullet in the case mouth. Crimping is not required. Case mouth tension should be enough. However, if you do crimp, it must be a taper crimp.
 
Thx for the replies folks.

So, I have a batch of ~50 rounds loaded without flaring the case; will this be inherently dangerous or will it be ok?

Case mouths consistently measure .378 and all rounds drop in and out of the chamber easily.

Thanks!
 
You'll be fine.

In the future, flare the case mouth just a little. Don't overcrimp though. Just make sure that the flaring is gone.
 
IMHO the Lyman 'M' die is a must for those who reload lead handgun bullets. Instead of a 'flare' or 'bell' it provides a uniform 'shelf' to seat lead handgun bullets without cocking them to one side (and shaving lead in the process). To be honest, I don't load lead bullets in 9mm Luger caliber. Most 9mm pistols have barrel twist rates set up for FMJ bullets. Lead projectiles will often 'keyhole', or strike the target sideways. As stated before, plated bullets in 9mm Luger are a good inexpensive compromise between lead and FMJ projectiles. And the Lee Factory Crimp die is required for ensuring ammo that will always chamber.
 
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