9mm Nork Tok Reload Issue

pontcanna

pontcanna

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I'm a very basic reloader. Load entirely for pistol and have had very few problems. The Lee handloader, Lee dies and Lee factory crimp have served me well in a number of different calibres, both semis and revolvers.

So fastforward to the CanAm $99 Norinco Tokarev 9mm sale. I take it to the range and it won't chamber my reloads. Didn't have any factory with me at the time, so bring it home, take the barrel out and start fiddling. I find some factory rounds and they all slide in "flush" whereas mine don't. OK, now we know the problem. So I start again with some fresh reloading and I size the case as much as possible (fits well) but after the bullet is seated I have the same old problem, despite using the factory crimp. I can't seem to squeeze the buggers enough to make them fit easily. I should add that the same reloads have worked fine in several other 9's, most recently my M&P. OAL is 1.127". I always thought that Chinese tolerances were supposed to be loose, but this one seems to be the exception. Any suggestions?
 
pontcanna said:
I'm a very basic reloader. Load entirely for pistol and have had very few problems. The Lee handloader, Lee dies and Lee factory crimp have served me well in a number of different calibres, both semis and revolvers.

So fastforward to the CanAm $99 Norinco Tokarev 9mm sale. I take it to the range and it won't chamber my reloads. Didn't have any factory with me at the time, so bring it home, take the barrel out and start fiddling. I find some factory rounds and they all slide in "flush" whereas mine don't. OK, now we know the problem. So I start again with some fresh reloading and I size the case as much as possible (fits well) but after the bullet is seated I have the same old problem, despite using the factory crimp. I can't seem to squeeze the buggers enough to make them fit easily. I should add that the same reloads have worked fine in several other 9's, most recently my M&P. OAL is 1.127". I always thought that Chinese tolerances were supposed to be loose, but this one seems to be the exception. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
what size are the boolets?lead?fmj's? etc...
have tryed mic'n the factory round at the "neck" where the bullet is seated and compairing to your reloads neck?
 
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Spent the evening fiddling with various permutations and finally have one that fits...at the shorter end of OAL, will advise how it turns out.
 
these have SHORT CHAMBERS- my 9mm tok PULLS the bullets off 124 grain round nose, even though it'll chamber and fire factory- but it feeds 130 grain swc no problem- IT'S THE PROFILE OF THE BULLET AS WELL-it's a REAL MESS when it does this- dumps powder all over the inside of the gun, mag etc- and it jams about half way back
 
You need to find a bullet with a shorter shank. Longer shank bullets seated too deeply will result in a slightly bulged case which will prevent chambering. Been there and done that.
 
t-star said:
these have SHORT CHAMBERS- my 9mm tok PULLS the bullets off 124 grain round nose, even though it'll chamber and fire factory- but it feeds 130 grain swc no problem- IT'S THE PROFILE OF THE BULLET AS WELL-it's a REAL MESS when it does this- dumps powder all over the inside of the gun, mag etc- and it jams about half way back
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Agree, one of my 1911 doesn't like Round Nose at all. SWC, however, shoots like dream on that 1911.
 
Sounds like the throat needs to be lengthened. You can get a 9mm throater and extend it say 0.100". I have used a simple twist drill, cut by hand with lots of lube, checking frequently. As soon as your loaded round of choice will drop in freely, you stop.

The throat should be 0.357", and a 23/64 drill makes a 0.3594" hole, which is nominally 0.0024" oversize. A "U" drill will make a 0.3680" hole, that is .011" oversize. Hand-turned twist drills typically cut undersize, and I find the "U" drill best because of that. If the barrel turns out to be chrome-lined, you'll need a carbide reamer or twist drill.

I'm going to use Wolf reloads in mine with a 135gr cast bullet. If they won't chamber, I'll do the above and provide a report.
 
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"OAL is 1.127"

Wow.. I have some reloads over 9mm max COL of 1.169 for my 9mm M&P, it likes it! (only slightly over that is).

I just order one of those $99 Norcs from Canada Ammo, and I guess I will have to be careful with my reloads... Have you figured out what length works for it? I know many factory loads are really short (compared to Max COL), like around 1.10 or even 1.09 for some bullets.

It would be good to know what it likes so I can have some ammo made for when it gets here!

Mike
 
Andy said:
Sounds like the throat needs to be lengthened. You can get a 9mm throater and extend it say 0.100". I have used a simple twist drill, cut by hand with lots of lube, checking frequently. As soon as your loaded round of choice will drop in freely, you stop.

The throat should be 0.357", and a 23/64 drill makes a 0.3594" hole, which is nominally 0.0024" oversize. A "U" drill will make a 0.3680" hole, that is .011" oversize. Hand-turned twist drills typically cut undersize, and I find the "U" drill best because of that. If the barrel turns out to be chrome-lined, you'll need a carbide reamer or twist drill.

I'm going to use Wolf reloads in mine with a 135gr cast bullet. If they won't chamber, I'll do the above and provide a report.
Click to expand...

You reminded me of a guy named Clark, that I've seen on other forums, mostly to do with Toks.:cool:
 
I have my $99 special coming as well, and I plan to handload, please advise what length works well in yours when you find it

Cheers
 
I've come to the conclusion that it's the bullet shape/width that makes the difference rather than OAL. With the truncated cone 124 gr. cast bullets from MD Charlton, I have to get the OAL down to 1.060 or so for things to fit well. On the other hand, my own cast 125 gr. round noses (using the Lee mold) work with an OAL of about 1.118.
 
Have you tried taper crimping or post sizing the ammo?

Sounds like you need to get the front of the case as small as your factory ammo.

That is a clear indicator of crimping. I doubt OAL is your main issue.

Good luck.

Jerry
 
pontcanna said:
I've come to the conclusion that it's the bullet shape/width that makes the difference rather than OAL. With the truncated cone 124 gr. cast bullets from MD Charlton, I have to get the OAL down to 1.060 or so for things to fit well. On the other hand, my own cast 125 gr. round noses (using the Lee mold) work with an OAL of about 1.118.
Click to expand...

I agree the bullet shape and the OAL become major issues, in my Barsto 229 barrel lead RN 124gr bullets will not chamber properly, yet will work fine in 3 other 9mm guns, the round jams on the shoulder.
 
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