A barrel full of rust.

I do not think that I have ever had much luck getting copper out of a bore with scrubbing - easier on everyone to use a good bore cleaner made for dissolving copper - modern Hoppe's #9, for example, is NOT one of them - I think it used to be, but not since formulation was changed. I mostly rely on foaming WipeOut and overnight soak - if any copper in the bore, the patches come out vivid blue. Many other quality bore cleaners do similar. Just because I got suspicious that copper / bronze brushes might be actually leaving copper deposits behind, or interacting with the cleaners, I went with a set of nylon bore brushes to get the last of it out - I often wrap a patch around a nylon brush, instead of using a jag. Usually have to go down a caliber or two in brush size, if you do that.

As well, contrary to a thought that I had - from an experienced and knowledgeable target shooter on this site - is not possible to "shoot out" stuff in the bore by firing bullets - result of that is more likely to simply pound that crap into the barrel wall.
 
I use CR10 to remove copper. But this isn't a long range gun. I have the nylon bristle brushes too and SS in most calibers. I have loaded up some cheap Frontier Game Ranger 150 grain bullets to see how it functions. First clean the chamber after coming back from hunting.
It needs more chamber polishing!!
2 out of 5 had to be assisted out.
 
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bearhunter said:
There used to be a product available to clean up frosty bores. It consisted of a half dozen cast bullet that had grinding compound of different grits impregnated into their surfaces. They usually worked but they did wear the bores.
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This is known as "fire lapping". I've tried it and it works pretty well. You can google the term and several articles on doing this come up. It can wear the bore of you overdo it but if you have found most of the corrosion is surface rust you may only need 6-10 shots to clean the bore up nicely without any damage .

Kits are available (https://beartoothbullets.com/bulletselect/index.htm?main=firelapping_kits.htm) but some soft lead bullets and three or four progessively finer lapping compounds should do the trick. You also use light charges of fast burning powder.
 
I've worked on a couple "found in shed dead" rifles and using liberal amounts of oil and lots of brushing to start with, I worked away at them for hours, using fluid film and then whatever bore cleaners I had and possibly even some aerosol carb cleaner.

They were Sears branded Marlin 336 and an old Lee Enfield. Both barrels were returned to serviceable condition
 
Running several patches made out of those metal polishing pot scrubber pads with an under sized jag can work pretty well. So can an electronic bore cleaner, which you can make yourself for pretty low cost.
 
Removing a barrel on the Remington autoloaders isn't all that hard. You really need to polish the chamber properly to end the extraction issues or future ones. Fine paper and oil... The bore will be so easy to clean then also. If in doubt, watch a tutorial on it or just send it to me. I'll do it and return it with the front end all torqued up tight again so it stays put. Also the chamber will be shiny and spot free.
 
Bought a savage 30-36 rifle that was hanged on a shop wall in the east coast for 40+ years. Inside of barrel had chunks of rust. I first used kroil and a brush to get the rough stuff out. Then, I used patches with valve grinding compound to get the really messy stuff out. After about 5 patches and 40 strokes each, I saw the first glimmer of bare metal, with lands and grooves showing. Heavy pitting noted throughout. Cleaning the chamber was easier, as the rust did not pit there as much, but a very good point to polish this are as well. I cut 2" from the end as this area was not safe to shoot. Recrowned the barrel and re installed to the action.
I prepared a number of low pressure rounds with H4895 and proceeded to the range. The barrel shot a reasonable 1.5 MOA in my recollection.....so even a really dead barrel shot within reason. Would not consider normal loads in this case.

If the pits are superficial then clean out really well and use JB or Flitz. And get to work. Yours may still shoot minute of deer if that is your goal. Elky...

BTW, that rifle I resurrected from the dead now sports a nice 270 stainless barrel and the black walnut hidden below the cracked finish now sports a nice oil finish....
 
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