A few M-14 questions....

[CanuckShooter]

I haven't been reading much in Main Battle Rifles the past year or two so I have kind of been out of the loop.

I am considering picking up another M-14 (sold my last one to my dad), and just have a few quick questions if you guys don't mind.

1. I know that there is a good chance that the barrel will not be indexed perfectly. Having a barrel that is under-torqued I assume is fine, but one that is OVER torqued... wouldn't that mean that the shoulder of the barrel has been mashed into the receiver causing some sort of damage to either the barrel (shoulder or threads) or receiver? Or is there still a tiny gap between them after the barrel is 'indexed' to allow for over-torquing without damage?

2. Are the flash hiders still being welded on? Is drilling out the spot welds still the preferred method?

3. Can some tell me again why military surplus 7.62x51 is not reloading friendly? Do they have crimped primers?

4. I'm a bit unsure as to whether or not I should get a match grade op-rod spring guide from Marstar that is made for use with the Chinese springs, or if I should go with one from Brownell's or somewhere similar that is made for use with USGI springs. I would imagine the USGI spring are (or will be in the future) easier to get a hold of... no? Or is it the Chinese springs that are/will be easier to get a hold of? Any opinions?

Thanks!

 

[45ACPKING]

answer to #1 : I haven't met a slightly overindexed barrel on a norc that was damaged in any way. just back her off and retorque to correct index position.
most if not all of the norcs i've had on the bench (68 as of the 3 i serviced today) were sitting at 90 to 110 footlbs. Achieving the required minimum 80 ftlbs of torque when reindexing an over indexed barrel has never been a problem in my experience.

answer to #2 : Yes, still welded, 2 spot welds under the rear ring. many have come off with a good series of solid whacks with a brass punch and 2 lbs hammer. The other 60 to 70% of em have required the use of a dremel carbide reamer on the welds, followed by said brass punch and hammer

answer to #3 : military surplus 7.62x 51 uses berdan primers in most cases they generally suck from a reloading perspective

and #4 : your best bet for springs is the wolfe silicon coated spring along with a sadlak or badger ordnance guide rod. Give AlbertaTacticalRifle a p.m. they had BOTH in stock when i last spoke with them.

 

[CanuckShooter]

Thanks 45ACPKING,

So does that mean there IS extra room PAST the point of the barrel being indexed. Like if you took a barrel that was properly indexed, and torqued it further, is there still a tiny gap/extra thread on the barrel that allows it to turn past that point? Or is the shoulder of the barrel already really tight against the receiver when it is properly indexed.

That is my concern, is if the shoulder is already tight against the receiver when it's indexed, turning it past that point has got to make something give.

 

[sunray]

"...military surplus 7.62 x 51 uses berdan primers..." Some milsurp uses berdan primers. Not all of it.
Boxer primed milsurp brass usually does have a primer crimp. Not a big deal though. The primer should come out with regular decapping. Then you need to remove the crimp with a chamfering tool or primer pocket swager. It's a one time thing. The only other thing is that you must reduce the powder charge by 10% due to the rgicker case. Otherwise load 'em the way you load any other case.

 

[CanuckShooter]

Sunray,

Does the portugese surplus 308 use berdan primers? My dad has a ton of port brass, but if it's not reloadable I'll tell him to take it to the scrap yard.

Thanks

 

[klrklr]

Sunray,

Does the portugese surplus 308 use berdan primers? My dad has a ton of port brass, but if it's not reloadable I'll tell him to take it to the scrap yard.

Thanks

I think it is just look inside with a light if you see the tell tail 2 little holes your S##t of luck. I would just use the range scrap there is always a ton of 308win and its free. Thats what I do in my nork and have had no problems. The american 762 is boxer primer but good luck finding it.

 

[BattleRife]

2. Are the flash hiders still being welded on? Is drilling out the spot welds still the preferred method?

3. Can some tell me again why military surplus 7.62x51 is not reloading friendly? Do they have crimped primers?

Thanks!

2. My flash suppressor was welded on, but the tiny spots of weld broke off by themselves after about 500 rounds. I bet it would have come off much faster if I had loosened the castle nut a half turn or so.

3. Almost all military cases will have crimped primers, so the crimp will need to be reamed or swaged out. Many nations' brass will also have thick walls, reducing capacity and necessitating that the brass be kept separate from other brands and loaded with a lower charge. I keep IVI brass apart from FC and Winchester, which is the brass I am using currently.

Aside from that, I have never heard anyone talk of military brass being unfriendly.