A few rebarrelling questions, specifically about Accuracy Internationals

[Roddy]

I bought a new barrel for my AI AE MkIII. It's a Bartlein from Eurooptic imported by Prophet River. Their importing charge was 80% less than other importers! I also purchased a barrel vise and action wrench and I am almost all set to swap it out but I had a few questions.

This is the how to video that I watched to learn how to do this:

They advocate removing the scope, skins, and action. I'm. Just wondering why. It looks like you don't really have to and on the Arctic Warfare it can't be removed.

My next question is more generic. I don't have any headspace gauges. Do I need them and can I make something out of a case or loaded round or something like that?

I know these are pretty specific questions about a pretty specific rifle but if anyone has opinions or ideas I would love to hear them.

Thanks!

 

[dero338]

Q: My next question is more generic. I don't have any headspace gauges. Do I need them and can I make something out of a case or loaded round or something like that?

A: yes. never atempt to shoot a newly installed barrel without checking the headspace.
too thight, round will not chamber. no big deal. if excessive, round will be pushed fwd when striked by the firing pin. then pressure starts to build up and case stretch until case head separate and you get brass and smoke in your face or hand depending of action configuration.

to what I have read, no go gage is approx 0,004 longer than go to keep prepper accuracy. then there is the field gage 0,006 longer than the go to stay within safety when using factory amo in service rifles.

I have installed a 300wm rem 700 sps takeoff barrel I purchased for peanuts on an old 700 action few years back. 0,012 of tape added to NO GO gage before I starl to feel restriction. I just removed material to the barrel until I got the go to just close and mesure the bolt clearance with platicgage just to make sure it match micrometer readings and I hav a very nice spare sub moa hunting rifle for a few seasons.

 

[J996]

Removing the Action from the AE just makes it easier. It can be done by leaving the stock on you just have to support the weight of the rifle when you break the barrel loose.

AI's headspace off a breech ring, they are not like a regular rifle (this includes the AE model). Who made the barrel? As long as it was made by AINA, OTM or Mile High it is within proper spec and will headspace. Torque it to 100 foot lbs and its done.

If you don't have a gauge to verify then prime an empty case (use thinner brass like win or rem) fire it and mic the shoulder (with proper tool). Confirm its in range and you're done.

 

[Roddy]

J996 the barrel was made by Bartlein for Eurooptic. They even machined a flat spot into it which makes me think I didn't have to buy a special barrel vice.

I only have loaded Hornady ammo right now but I could pull a bullet and try that.

 

[J996]

Ok that is an AINA spec barrel and I believe they are chambered for them by Dave Tooley. That will bolt up and be in spec.

The flats on the barrel are for rifles with quick-loc like the AT and new AX if the barrel needs to be broken loose in the field.
Your older AE will require you to use a bench mounted barrel vise (like in the video you posted).

Also for this particular question you will get much more info on Snipershide as not many here will have swapped barrels on AE rifles

 

[J996]

To confirm HS the regular way just buy a go and no-go gauge in the calibre you need (forster for example).

Here is how to swap the barrel with the stock on like an AW.

 

[xURSOx]

If the Barrel has a shoulder, you should be able to screw it in fully, then tighten down the action to 80-100 ft. pounds.

You should check headspace, however this should have already been done when the barrel was made. It's always good practice to double check as each action might be slightly different.

Happy shooting!

 

[Roddy]

Thanks a lot for all the replies everybody!

I think have everything I need except for the headspace gauges. If it's a 99.9% chance I don't need them I might just gamble it. I thought I could make one by putting scotch tape on the bottom of a case.

I know what everyone's thinking, "You only bought 280 rounds for it?" Well don't worry, I have another case of ELD-M's on order. Maybe it's just me but the Precision hunter boxes look like they have swastikas on them.

I got the barrel from Eurooptic and Prophet River, the wrench and vise from Adam's Custom Rifles, the dies from CGN, and most of the ammo from P&D.

This is the flat part of the barrel that made me wonder if I had to spend hundreds of dollars on a barrel vise.

I don't know if you have to listen to semi patriotic electric guitar music while you do this project like they did in the video but I'm thinking I should just to be on the safe side.

 

[EC]

I bought a new barrel for my AI AE MkIII. It's a Bartlein from Eurooptic imported by Prophet River. Their importing charge was 80% less than other importers! I also purchased a barrel vise and action wrench and I am almost all set to swap it out but I had a few questions.

This is the how to video that I watched to learn how to do this:

They advocate removing the scope, skins, and action. I'm. Just wondering why. It looks like you don't really have to and on the Arctic Warfare it can't be removed.

My next question is more generic. I don't have any headspace gauges. Do I need them and can I make something out of a case or loaded round or something like that?

I know these are pretty specific questions about a pretty specific rifle but if anyone has opinions or ideas I would love to hear them.

Thanks!

Roddy,
I changed the barrel on my AE several times. I removed the scope, skins, and action from the chassis. The AE's action is not bonded like the AW/AT/AX and has a pinned recoil lug vs the integral recoil lug so maybe that's why. I have a maintenance manual for the rifle which is much more in depth that the user manual and I went by what the manual said. Also if you don't have a breaker bar get one to assist you removing the barrel. 100 ft pounds is pretty tight and you obviously don't want to use the torque wrench to remove the barrel. I had to reef on it pretty good to get it off. It slipped a couple of times and I had to tighten the vice a couple of times. I am glad I removed the scope because it would have been scarred up pretty good.
I believe the barrels from Euro Optic and done by Wade Stuteville. I have a set of Manson headspace gauges for the CM but I won't be around till the end of February, if you still need them.

 

[Roddy]

Hey one more question about changing barrels, should I put anything on the threads?

When the barrel arrived it has a little bit of red grease on the threads but I'm wondering if I should clean it off, put on more, or use something else like pipe dope or loctite. The barrel came with no instructions.

 

[CanuckR]

Hey one more question about changing barrels, should I put anything on the threads?

When the barrel arrived it has a little bit of red grease on the threads but I'm wondering if I should clean it off, put on more, or use something else like pipe dope or loctite. The barrel came with no instructions.

I would put some anti seize on the threads if you have any. Another way to get an idea as to your headspace setting is take a case with no primer in it, or a spent primer. Put a dab of grease on the back, stick a small piece of wire solder to it and close the bolt on it, it will squish the solder, remove solder, measure with a mic or decent calipers.
I do this with a go gauge when I chamber a barrel, that way I know the chamber is at "GO+0.00x" as opposed to somewhere between go and no go.
Using a piece of brass is obviously less accurate than a go gauge, however if it still falls into "no go" specs you won't have anything to worry about.