A gunsmith for Refinishing the Wood Gun Stock

[alberta.elk]

Hello everyone,
Who do you recommend for refinishing a wood gun stock?

Regards,
Alberta.elk

 

[anietfeld]

Are you wanting a hand rubbed oil finish? Checkering re-cut?

I’d look at Chris Griesbach

 

[alberta.elk]

Thanks for your message.
Yes just hand rubbed. No checkering.

 

[alberta.elk]

Where is his address or email or contact number?

 

[anietfeld]

https://www.griesbachcustom.com/

 

[William Watt]

There should be someone in Edmonton that can do the work.
Cost will depend on the condition of the stock and what you want for a finished product.

Take care.

 

[wjklassen]

Per Andersen at Legacy Restorations in Edmonton has done a couple of fine stock restorations for me, as well as cera-koting of actions and barrels, at a reasonable price. His website is: https://legacyrestorations.ca/
His email contact is: perandersen@shaw.ca
I'm waiting for the postal strike to be over to send him another project.
Bill

 

[Deathrawt]

I second Pehr at legacy, he does amazing work and is a super nice guy

 

[threecentsolution]

This is something you can do yourself . All it takes is some time and effort, and some ventilation.

 

[threecentsolution]

Thanks for your message.
Yes just hand rubbed. No checkering.

Why do you not do it yourself. The hardest part is getting rid of the old finish. After that get some tung oil, fallow the instructions and the finished product is up to you.

 

[straightshooter]

I’ve done dozens of stock refinishes and stock replacements for myself and for friends (and many that I bought to refinish and resell). It’s not rocket science, but you need to do a bunch of them before you gain enough experience to do a really nice job.

High end guns with beautifully figured walnut tend to look best with a gloss finish. Workhorse models, on the other hand, look more original with a matte finish.

If you decide to try a DIY, the best advise I can give is:

• The final oil finish is, in many ways, the easy part. The prep work that you put into raising dents and removing blemishes and stains will save time and effort when it comes to the oil finish.
• Avoid over sanding. There is rarely a need for grits finer than 120 grit. Use your hand, not a sanding block.
• Choose your wood stains carefully. Winchesters have a bit of red like you’d get from a mahogany stain, whereas most other guns require more brown tones.

What model are you looking to refinish?

 

[alberta.elk]

Thanks everyone for the advices.
I will do that by myself.

 

[FatCatsDad]

DIY, you'll feel amazing when it's done and your looking at it.

 

[anietfeld]

I’ve done dozens of stock refinishes and stock replacements for myself and for friends (and many that I bought to refinish and resell). It’s not rocket science, but you need to do a bunch of them before you gain enough experience to do a really nice job.

High end guns with beautifully figured walnut tend to look best with a gloss finish. Workhorse models, on the other hand, look more original with a matte finish.

If you decide to try a DIY, the best advise I can give is:

• The final oil finish is, in many ways, the easy part. The prep work that you put into raising dents and removing blemishes and stains will save time and effort when it comes to the oil finish.
• Avoid over sanding. There is rarely a need for grits finer than 120 grit. Use your hand, not a sanding block.
• Choose your wood stains carefully. Winchesters have a bit of red like you’d get from a mahogany stain, whereas most other guns require more brown tones.

What model are you looking to refinish?

I always thought the purpose of the sanding block was to keep your edges sharp and crisp

 

[270AB]

 

[270AB]

I started doing it as a hobby 5 yrs ago. Pic is a 70s Anschutz that had some major dings and was my first effort with a new process. It helped having a beautiful piece of old European wood to work with.

 

[scianna54]

Why do you not do it yourself. The hardest part is getting rid of the old finish. After that get some tung oil, fallow the instructions and the finished product is up to you.

I prefer true oil. I used tung oil before and find it harder and more time consuming. I just use my fingers.

 

[straightshooter]

I always thought the purpose of the sanding block was to keep your edges sharp and crisp

Maintaining sharp edges is a problem only when you remove too much material or you use too much pressure or sand past the edge. Sanding walnut stocks should be more like gently wiping the dust off with a dry cloth, taking your time and barely removing the thinnest possible amount. You can always sand a little bit more, but you can never replace what you took off.

Using a sanding block is okay on the few flat surfaces, but ensure that the block maintains even contact or it will be worse for the edges than not using it.

These photos are of an AyA sxs and a Spanish Arizaga that I did.

 

[salter]

Maintaining sharp edges is a problem only when you remove too much material or you use too much pressure or sand past the edge. Sanding walnut stocks should be more like gently wiping the dust off with a dry cloth, taking your time and barely removing the thinnest possible amount. You can always sand a little bit more, but you can never replace what you took off.

Using a sanding block is okay on the few flat surfaces, but ensure that the block maintains even contact or it will be worse for the edges than not using it.

These photos are of an AyA sxs and a Spanish Arizaga that I did.


View attachment 874837View attachment 874838

My God, it looks like the box of cartridges is from Woodwards probably downtown Edmonton. Rolled crimp even. You have older stuff than I have.

 

[HuskyDude]

Thanks everyone for the advices.
I will do that by myself.

There are lots of threads showing members DYI projects. Some very talented people. If you have a bit of time to search, you can pick up some really good info.