A pro Pro1000 thread

RUPZUK

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
38   0   0
Location
north coast
Thought I'd start a " living with the Pro1000 " thread.
For the price it's not a bad press but to work well they need a lot of tweeks to run right IMO. Lee should have done most of them but I'll give them some credit, they did upgrade the retention of the primer lid. They have a lot of good info on their website but left things like these out.
I hope this info will help new owners avoid many frustrating nights and if anyone else has any tips please feel free to add.
First, when setting up your press use a sturdy bench, what about 75% of people think is sturdy - isn't.
Second, Never assume the factory adjusted or tightened anything on this product - they didn't.
This is my current 1000 - in .40S&W.
pro1000upgrades001.jpg

These are items that I would consider esential, to Lee you don't need one and the other is an option. Dillon lube works great and dramatically lowers the effort needed to run the machine, it's cheap and lasts a long time. The case funnel is also cheap and speeds things up big time.:)
pro1000upgrades015.jpg

Primer issues are one of the bigest headaches with the Lee product, you can do two simple things to eliminate these problems. One, never run low on primers. As soon as the tray is empty refill it, it will not work with only 10 or 15 primers in the feed tube. Second, The notches Lee puts in the upright do not aggetate the primer tray enough. To solve this I wrapped .045" wire in each groove ( tried orings and thicker wire - this works best IMO)
pro1000upgrades007.jpg

The next problem depends on your caliber, I had a 45acp press that did not have this PITA. The bullet feeder ( in 40 anyway) spits cases all over the place no matter how you adjust it. It appears Lee only makes one sized feeder and at the end of the day the hole is too big. I solved 95% of feeding issues by epoxying a piece of copper tubing into the feeder and then reaming it to size. This has worked great but if a case was squished bad it won't feed through ( rarely happens).
pro1000upgrades009.jpg

Another recent problem I encountered was getting random high primers. This is what I found was causing it and how to correct it. Spent primers can collect under the press and if gone unchecked can keep the carriage from going all the way down. Also if the tail of the chain is too long it can get up under the press and cause the same problems. The solve; clean away the primers under the unit and keep a short tail.
The wrong way;
pro1000upgrades003.jpg

pro1000upgrades004.jpg

pro1000upgrades002.jpg

The right way;
pro1000upgrades016.jpg

Another thing that bothered me was how the plate that holds the dies was allowed to float a bit in the unit. To me this was unaceptable, so I fixed that too. I replaced the bolts that hold the press together with studs ( you need one longer than the other two) and tightened down a nut on each. This let a good portion of stud still useable so I bent some fender washers and three more nuts to exert pressure on the die plate, Nothing moves now and the press seems to run better.
pro1000upgrades006.jpg

Another simple hint, he bullet seat die isn't a vernier style, so what. If your changing your case OAL ( Assuming you know where it was) just use the tail end of your calipers to tell you how far you need to adjust. You may be suprised at how well this works
pro1000upgrades018.jpg

pro1000upgrades017.jpg

One other item that I came across was the adjustable charge bar. For larger loads it works great but for smaller loads/ fine ( dense) powder charges not so much. With smaller loads the cavity becomes eliptical in shape and doesn't expose itself that well to the powder measure. The discs work far better for this as the are always centered under the powder measure. IMO if your after a weight between two discs just ream one out untill you get what you need.
And lastly for me is don't forget to lubricate the ram, linkage pins and spindle. Use some cardboard or paper to eliminate overspray, I have found a product called "Lube-it" works great.
 
Used a pro 1000 for 3 years, then bought a dillon... Looks like you have put alot of thought and effort into this, nice to see.....

A
 
I got into reloading because I got a Pro 1000 for free from a guy who was leaving the hobby. It's been OK, but fussy. I don't trust it to work in full progressive. I load each casing and bullet individually and sent it around solo.

It's not that bad. I have the time to give each brass, powder load and bullet a final safety check.

But, if you say a Dillon is better, I'll buy one. Can you work it in full progressive load without it screwing up?

Also, I find that in full progressive, pulling the lever is much harder than just doing solo loads--especially in .45 ACP. It this because I don't use case lube?
 
Great thread!

Lee is a great machine for a newbie to get started on..

I used a PRO that I bought for $125 complete with case columnator. It was frustration (and a small explosion) with the primer feed that did me in.

Not to mention with the kids into IPSC I needed a faster press.

I ended up with a Hornady LNL and absolutely love it. My son and I cranked off 200 rounds of 9mm in 12 minutes the other day.
 
a couple of things- 1 you don't need any kind of case lube in most pistol dies unless you have STEEL - carbide is harder than brass, and it should slip right in - your problem is your press is binding somewhere- i've got 3 of these, 9mm, 45, and 223- the only failure point is the primer feed, and some folks prefer to use the hand prime , but i found by backing off the trip so it feeds a primer no matter what ( you tighten the screw with the trip out of the way) and keeping the tray full, it's not necessary- on the 9mm and the 45, i also have a 15 degree forward tilt to "help" the primer feed along- you don't do this on the 223 as it interferes with the alignment of the case to the die- ie it throws the feed angle off-
if you go dillon, you'll want the 650, not the 550, as there is no AUTO-INDEX
on the 550 and you have to use that star wheel to advance the plate- all of my 1000's are at least 10 years old , and aside from the primer issues, never given a bit of trouble- and we're talking about thousands of rounds of ammo- i think the secret to this was partially due to buying a FACTORY SET-UP PRESS in each caliber- oh, sure, i've replaced the little rachet drive when needed, and i keep a couple of packages of those just in case but we're talking about 3/1.50 part here
 
I got into reloading because I got a Pro 1000 for free from a guy who was leaving the hobby. It's been OK, but fussy. I don't trust it to work in full progressive. I load each casing and bullet individually and sent it around solo.

It's not that bad. I have the time to give each brass, powder load and bullet a final safety check.

But, if you say a Dillon is better, I'll buy one. Can you work it in full progressive load without it screwing up?

Also, I find that in full progressive, pulling the lever is much harder than just doing solo loads--especially in .45 ACP. It this because I don't use case lube?

if i were you, i'd be inclined to pull the carrier , and take it apart, see if you can see what's binding, replace the small ratchet just for the heck of it, and grease the top of the carrier underneath the shelplate- that's the only place where steel rides on steel- it's covered in the manual where it tells you how to change shelplates- you also need to have a bend in the z-bar for 45 acp- which you can either do yourself or order a bent z bar from the factory= which i would recommend as i've never seen one of the home made jobs work as well as the factory, although appearances can be identical
 
Last edited:
I have a 1050, and have had a 650. The 1050 will load 1200 rnds/hr if you work at 1000 if you relax. The 650 was not quite as fast but still is a good solid machine. The Lee is a good starter unit but there is no comparison with the dillon.... Primer feed is the downfall with the Lee, and the disc style powder measure limits you.
 
i don't use the discs at all- never have- i've got the adjustable powder bar( 2 from a 3rd party, previous to lee, ) and 2 from lee- the third party ones have a finer thread and a locking screw- basically it's set and forget- as for the 223, the lee in any config doesn't have enough capacity,so i've got a dillon powder measure on there- to clarify, it's not the individual charge, but you have to refill the bin too many times with the lee
 
t-star. Thanks. I'll try that. It's the force I have to use on the handle that increases. It's as if the brass is sticking. But the brass is clean.

Still, the primer feed is a pain. Even a few misplaced powder grains can screw it up. And I have to keep flicking the primer tray to keep it feeding down the chute.
 
t-star.
Still, the primer feed is a pain. Even a few misplaced powder grains can screw it up. And I have to keep flicking the primer tray to keep it feeding down the chute.
the wire solved that problem for me. you might want to try it.

i don't use the discs at all- never have- i've got the adjustable powder bar( 2 from a 3rd party, previous to lee, ) and 2 from lee- the third party ones have a finer thread and a locking screw- basically it's set and forget
Who made these third party adjustable charge bars and where did you get it? Thanks.

a couple of things- 1 you don't need any kind of case lube in most pistol dies unless you have STEEL - carbide is harder than brass, and it should slip right in - your problem is your press is binding somewhere- i've got 3 of these, 9mm, 45, and 223- the only failure point is the primer feed, and some folks prefer to use the hand prime , but i found by backing off the trip so it feeds a primer no matter what ( you tighten the screw with the trip out of the way) and keeping the tray full, it's not necessary- on the 9mm and the 45, i also have a 15 degree forward tilt to "help" the primer feed along- you don't do this on the 223 as it interferes with the alignment of the case to the die- ie it throws the feed angle off all of my 1000's are at least 10 years old , and aside from the primer issues, never given a bit of trouble- and we're talking about thousands of rounds of ammo- i think the secret to this was partially due to buying a FACTORY SET-UP PRESS in each caliber- oh, sure, i've replaced the little rachet drive when needed, and i keep a couple of packages of those just in case but we're talking about 3/1.50 part here
First, my press isn't binding anything and works great. It's simple physics, a little lube makes for lower friction there by decreasing the effort required to cycle the machine.
Second, I have tried disabling the primer trip and found it only creates problems. If you forget to turn the case feeder and cycle the machine without a case in position the primer is still there and when you cycle the press that live primer can become jammed/crushed/lost with the potential for a kaboom unless you remember to remove it before cycling the press.
I haven't tried tilting the unit but have had no issues with primmer feed now that I have wire in the grooves. And as for the factory set up presses, I've bought two and set up a third and none of them were " set-up", could be just my bad luck.

I got into reloading because I got a Pro 1000 for free from a guy who was leaving the hobby. It's been OK, but fussy. I don't trust it to work in full progressive. I load each casing and bullet individually and sent it around solo.

It's not that bad. I have the time to give each brass, powder load and bullet a final safety check.

But, if you say a Dillon is better, I'll buy one. Can you work it in full progressive load without it screwing up?

Also, I find that in full progressive, pulling the lever is much harder than just doing solo loads--especially in .45 ACP. It this because I don't use case lube?
The dillon is a great product and I'm sure I'll get one someday, If your ammo requirements demand huge volume and you can afford it.
The lee will require more effort to cycle in progressive than single loading ( I would think all presses are that way) but the effort should be manageable even without lube. You may want to check out the setup videos on Lee's site, you may have something out of adjustment.
 
the simple answer is not to "forget" that a primer feeds every time you pull the handle- i've had mine for quite a while now and i'm saying what works for me- i can reach right into the primer feed with a pair of long needle nose pliers and remove the offending primer BEFORE it causes problems-i've pulled the carriers more times than i care to remember to clean the powder and gunk out with compressed air- more often than not, it's powder or powder and grease - the old measures i have tend to leak a little -the last one i did was to change the 45acp to small primers so i could use nt brass- i change the small ratchet about every 5k as a matter of course
as for the charge bars, i think they were made locally b/c i got them at the firing line when they were in business- they've got 2 hex screws , one attached to the slide that adjusts the width of the gap, the other bears up against the slide so it can't move- you have to open one before you can do the other- the lee adjustable does the same thing, but without the lock feature- but these were 12.50 a piece 10 years ago, a real gyp-oh, yea, and my big press is a dillon 550
 
Last edited:
the simple answer is not to "forget" that a primer feeds every time you pull the handle- i've had mine for quite a while now and i'm saying what works for me- i can reach right into the primer feed with a pair of long needle nose pliers and remove the offending primer BEFORE it causes problems-i've pulled the carriers more times than i care to remember to clean the powder and gunk out with compressed air- more often than not, it's powder or powder and grease - the old measures i have tend to leak a little -the last one i did was to change the 45acp to small primers so i could use nt brass- i change the small ratchet about every 5k as a matter of course...

I could have written that.:D

I think I'll check into a Dillon.
 
Back
Top Bottom