I broke down yesterday and bought a 34mm Sako 3-ring mount for my new TRG 42. When I got home I prepared to mount my S&B scope in the new setup. This is where the fun begins....
I assembled the necessary tools and set about removing the Pic Rail Sako furnishes on the new TRG's. First I noticed that they didn't use torx or allen head screws but insted used Flathead screws
Who uses these for anything anymore let alone mounting a base?
When trying to remove the screws I nearly stripped one before I realized Sako had EPOXIED the base and screws to the reciever!...WTF!...Why? Were they honestly concerned with this thing moving with 4 screws and 2 recoil lugs/pins?
I did a search on the net to see if anyone else had this same issue and fortunately came across another forum outlining how a member was able to remove his without damaging anything. It is as follows:
You will need an Iron, 2 flathead screwdrivers of the correct size, brass punch, hammer, and a propane torch or some other means of heating one of the screwdriver tips to pretty much red hot. Use a crappy screwdriver for this purpose as I suspect the tempering/heat treatment on it will be gone after this procedure.
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Start by setting the iron flat on the base and soak some heat into it while heating one of the screwdrivers to a dull red. I removed my bolt and magazine prior to doing this. When the screwdriver is up to temperature remove the iron and apply the screwdriver directly to the screw head allowing the heat to sufficiently transfer into it. I repeated this process 3 times for each screw prior to attemping to turn it out of the reciever. Use discretion and common sense with the amount of heat you introduce with the iron, I would essentially set it on the rail only long enough each time to maintain the heat I was trying to introduce into the screws. Once the screws are out simply use a hammer and punch to knock the base off the reciever. I didn't have a brass punch so a .223 case over the end of the screwdriver sufficed.
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You can see the epoxy/bonding agent on the reciever and underside of the base. The screw threads were entirely covered in the stuff
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You can see by the damage/distortion to the screw heads that they were dangerously close to stripping before they came out. Even after introducing heat to them they were still a little reluctant. Strong downward pressure and a slow steady turn freed them up.I am still a little pissed that I had to go through this whole process as the consequences of shearing off a screwhead or stripping them would have been hugely inconvienient and likely costly.
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Hope this was somewhat informative, I know it was certainly theraputic to vent my frustration Now where did I put that bottle of RYE!
I assembled the necessary tools and set about removing the Pic Rail Sako furnishes on the new TRG's. First I noticed that they didn't use torx or allen head screws but insted used Flathead screws
Who uses these for anything anymore let alone mounting a base?When trying to remove the screws I nearly stripped one before I realized Sako had EPOXIED the base and screws to the reciever!...WTF!...Why? Were they honestly concerned with this thing moving with 4 screws and 2 recoil lugs/pins?
I did a search on the net to see if anyone else had this same issue and fortunately came across another forum outlining how a member was able to remove his without damaging anything. It is as follows:
You will need an Iron, 2 flathead screwdrivers of the correct size, brass punch, hammer, and a propane torch or some other means of heating one of the screwdriver tips to pretty much red hot. Use a crappy screwdriver for this purpose as I suspect the tempering/heat treatment on it will be gone after this procedure.
Start by setting the iron flat on the base and soak some heat into it while heating one of the screwdrivers to a dull red. I removed my bolt and magazine prior to doing this. When the screwdriver is up to temperature remove the iron and apply the screwdriver directly to the screw head allowing the heat to sufficiently transfer into it. I repeated this process 3 times for each screw prior to attemping to turn it out of the reciever. Use discretion and common sense with the amount of heat you introduce with the iron, I would essentially set it on the rail only long enough each time to maintain the heat I was trying to introduce into the screws. Once the screws are out simply use a hammer and punch to knock the base off the reciever. I didn't have a brass punch so a .223 case over the end of the screwdriver sufficed.
You can see the epoxy/bonding agent on the reciever and underside of the base. The screw threads were entirely covered in the stuff
You can see by the damage/distortion to the screw heads that they were dangerously close to stripping before they came out. Even after introducing heat to them they were still a little reluctant. Strong downward pressure and a slow steady turn freed them up.I am still a little pissed that I had to go through this whole process as the consequences of shearing off a screwhead or stripping them would have been hugely inconvienient and likely costly.
Hope this was somewhat informative, I know it was certainly theraputic to vent my frustration
Now where did I put that bottle of RYE!
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