Accuracy issues first time firing SKS-D

BerneseMountainDogger

BerneseMountainDogger

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Hey yall

I’ll open with that I’m a new firearms owner, and although I’ve shot in the past for fun at ranges with rented guns, I’d still call myself new to the scene. Recently I bought a SKS-D off ####### and I took it to a range yesterday and shot some cheaper MFS FMJ ammo through it with the stock magazine that came with it.

There were some failure to fire issues with the rounds getting stuck in the mag and not sliding properly into the chamber, but that’s for another post. The rounds I fired at a target 20m away were in decent groupings but above the bullseye for some reason. I was lining up the rear and front sights and all my shots would hit in the same spot but above where I was actually aiming at.

Is this a rifle issue or crosshairs issue or even anything to do with ammo used? I was gonna grab a bad ace tactical SKS scope mount that would replace the front sight but in the mean time, is there something I could do to better my groupings? I saw somewhere if I shimmed the action tight into stock it increases the accuracy but is this needed? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated
 
The lowest siting for the SKS is 100 meters which is probably why you are hitting high. The SKS is a 2 MOA gun on a good day. If you want better accuracy I would suggest using better ammo.

As for the failure to feed its likely the magazine the rifle came with is the issue. Trying other mags might help the issue.
 
the only two things you can do mechanically to an sks to make it shoot better in its stock config

1) trigger job... it involves filling the block in the trigger group... you only get so much better don't over file it... its basically just making the trigger less creepy which helps you get more consistent trigger pulls. (consistency= accuracy)

2) gas tube: if they are to tight it effects the barrel harmonics, especially when hot, it should be snug (when cold) , but not so snug you got to reef on it to pull it out, or heaven forbid use something to pry it out with. If its to loose... whelp, sorry about your luck, there is no fixing that. i haven't seen after market gas tubes in a long time.

The stock doesn't need shimming/bedding unless it is actually moving around.


the gun should hit a few inches high at 20m... its a 100m first notch on the leaf site.

I built a SKS DMR back in the day... I removed the whole front site post assembly, used a crazy ivan mount, Elcan OS4X , trigger job, bed the action, tuned the gas tube, ... it was slick... still 1.5moa with hand loads lol.
 

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I had an SKS D for a couple of years. I bought it used for $300 and it came with a crate of ammo. I shot the ammo and sold it for $500.

I found it finicky with magazines and I would get a lot of fail to feeds. The accuracy was no different than any another SKS shooting milsurp which is not great.

Trying to reduce group size by doing work on an SKS is a waste of time. Just enjoy shooting it.
 
The front sights I've seen on SKS's are adjustable for elevation by adjusting it up to lower POI, or down to raise POI. You can also drift the front sight left or right.
 
Oh man...

First thing first: buy a front sight adjustment tool. (Tool can be had here.) The front sight is adjustable for both windage and elevation. Screw-in the sight post to raise MPI (your grouping), unscrew to lower. Adjusting it left will shift your MPI to the right, and vice versa.

As said, the lowest sight setting is set to 100m, so adjust at that range.

Try getting your hands on some decent steel 5/20 or 5/10 rounders. KCI can be hit or miss in terms of quality. Unsure if the newer Magpulls are any good. As for your feeding issue: I'd bet the front tab of your magazine wasn't seated properly as that's usually the result and they can be difficult to seat. Practice should help.

Last point: don't try and mall-ninja or otherwise bubba the rifle, it's a fool's errand. If the stock is fit snugly to the receiver, you don't need to shim it. If there's some free play/slop, then go ahead.
 
I should add that most SKS's are 3-4 MOA guns at best, and that's FINE! They were built to reliably hit a man sized target out to 300m, and they are generally good at this.

So buy some 12 inch AR-500 gongs (or shoot where there are some), a crate of surplus, and head to the range and ring 'em. It's fun.
 
SKS-D? MFS ammo? Had to make sure this wasn't a necropost from 2013 haha. But yeah OP, you're gonna be shooting high at 20 because your sights are likely set to 100m. Read up on battle zeros (the little П setting) and Maximum Point Blank Zeros. It'll be very helpful to understand how to zero your rifle.
 
L - Note the 'break' in the 'http s' - copy and fill in the blank
"hot-links" are not supposed to be inserted in threads, altho many do it.
 
TechNeck said:
the only two things you can do mechanically to an sks to make it shoot better in its stock config

1) trigger job... it involves filling the block in the trigger group... you only get so much better don't over file it... its basically just making the trigger less creepy which helps you get more consistent trigger pulls. (consistency= accuracy)

2) gas tube: if they are to tight it effects the barrel harmonics, especially when hot, it should be snug (when cold) , but not so snug you got to reef on it to pull it out, or heaven forbid use something to pry it out with. If its to loose... whelp, sorry about your luck, there is no fixing that. i haven't seen after market gas tubes in a long time.

The stock doesn't need shimming/bedding unless it is actually moving around.


the gun should hit a few inches high at 20m... its a 100m first notch on the leaf site.

I built a SKS DMR back in the day... I removed the whole front site post assembly, used a crazy ivan mount, Elcan OS4X , trigger job, bed the action, tuned the gas tube, ... it was slick... still 1.5moa with hand loads lol.
Click to expand...
As a soon to be owner of a French Tickler ( tomorrow hopefully ) is there a video of the #2 procedure ?
 
L - What T- means is the gas tube needs to be 'snug' but not too loose or too tight. The Front of the tube has an indent that fits on the 'gas block' above the barrel, while the back fits on the receiver. If you haven't seen this vid, it shows removal at ca 1:10m.
Doing a 'trigger job' is an advanced (sorta) process, that can f-up the sear if done 'too far'. There are vids on that too.
 
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