I'm new here and new to SKS's, but I've been enjoying reading the forum for months. Most of you guys definitely have WAY more experience than I do, so I'd really like your advice on my next project: accurizing my SKS.
I recently got an SKS and want to see its full accuracy realized. So I went out shooting with my Ukrainian buddy who learned to shoot with an SKS in grade 5. With iron sights at 100 yards, he's hitting a gallon oil bottle (6" target) 5 out of 5 times. He tells me in his Ukrainian accent, "Dan, you can't unlearn something you learned in grade 5; it's like riding a bike."
Ok well, not too impressive that's at worst 6 MOA (although I suspect better because he was hitting clays at that distance too), and probably the limit of his vision. What would YOU do?
1. Scope. First step to really see its baseline accuracy, I need to install a scope. Luckily there's a thread here with lots of purdy pictures:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?439418-SKS-Optics-sights-amp-mounts-update-feb-16-2010
HOWEVER, nobody has posted pics of their rifle's groups at 100 yards! I'm curious just what kind of groups are you guys shooting? Looks like the Choate scope mount is the first choice for accuracy, but I can't see going wrong with the Leapers UTG MNT-640 5th gen and tapping the bottom two bolts right into the receiver.
2. Trigger. I found a useful post here for a trigger job. My trigger is at 6.20 lbs right now, which appears decent for an SKS, but I'll probably drop that to ~4.0lbs. Do you think this is that necessary as long as I'm practicing dry fires anyway?
Scroll down for trigger job by Satain:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles
3. Bedding/free-floating. The main concern I have here is a little play forwards to backwards. I figure shimming the wood stock where the rear of the receiver touches the rear of the stock should solve this. You guys think more bedding or free floating is worth it?
4. Muzzle crown touch-up. There's one wee little dent on the crown, so I figure I may as well do the old round brass screw + valve compound trick. If that doesn't work, a buddy has a lathe at work that might fit the barrel.
Dan.
I recently got an SKS and want to see its full accuracy realized. So I went out shooting with my Ukrainian buddy who learned to shoot with an SKS in grade 5. With iron sights at 100 yards, he's hitting a gallon oil bottle (6" target) 5 out of 5 times. He tells me in his Ukrainian accent, "Dan, you can't unlearn something you learned in grade 5; it's like riding a bike."
Ok well, not too impressive that's at worst 6 MOA (although I suspect better because he was hitting clays at that distance too), and probably the limit of his vision. What would YOU do?
1. Scope. First step to really see its baseline accuracy, I need to install a scope. Luckily there's a thread here with lots of purdy pictures:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?439418-SKS-Optics-sights-amp-mounts-update-feb-16-2010
HOWEVER, nobody has posted pics of their rifle's groups at 100 yards! I'm curious just what kind of groups are you guys shooting? Looks like the Choate scope mount is the first choice for accuracy, but I can't see going wrong with the Leapers UTG MNT-640 5th gen and tapping the bottom two bolts right into the receiver.
2. Trigger. I found a useful post here for a trigger job. My trigger is at 6.20 lbs right now, which appears decent for an SKS, but I'll probably drop that to ~4.0lbs. Do you think this is that necessary as long as I'm practicing dry fires anyway?
Scroll down for trigger job by Satain:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles
3. Bedding/free-floating. The main concern I have here is a little play forwards to backwards. I figure shimming the wood stock where the rear of the receiver touches the rear of the stock should solve this. You guys think more bedding or free floating is worth it?
4. Muzzle crown touch-up. There's one wee little dent on the crown, so I figure I may as well do the old round brass screw + valve compound trick. If that doesn't work, a buddy has a lathe at work that might fit the barrel.
Dan.


















































