Accurate SKS project

ScragglyDan

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I'm new here and new to SKS's, but I've been enjoying reading the forum for months. Most of you guys definitely have WAY more experience than I do, so I'd really like your advice on my next project: accurizing my SKS.

I recently got an SKS and want to see its full accuracy realized. So I went out shooting with my Ukrainian buddy who learned to shoot with an SKS in grade 5. With iron sights at 100 yards, he's hitting a gallon oil bottle (6" target) 5 out of 5 times. He tells me in his Ukrainian accent, "Dan, you can't unlearn something you learned in grade 5; it's like riding a bike."

Ok well, not too impressive that's at worst 6 MOA (although I suspect better because he was hitting clays at that distance too), and probably the limit of his vision. What would YOU do?

1. Scope. First step to really see its baseline accuracy, I need to install a scope. Luckily there's a thread here with lots of purdy pictures:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?439418-SKS-Optics-sights-amp-mounts-update-feb-16-2010

HOWEVER, nobody has posted pics of their rifle's groups at 100 yards! I'm curious just what kind of groups are you guys shooting? Looks like the Choate scope mount is the first choice for accuracy, but I can't see going wrong with the Leapers UTG MNT-640 5th gen and tapping the bottom two bolts right into the receiver.

2. Trigger. I found a useful post here for a trigger job. My trigger is at 6.20 lbs right now, which appears decent for an SKS, but I'll probably drop that to ~4.0lbs. Do you think this is that necessary as long as I'm practicing dry fires anyway?

Scroll down for trigger job by Satain:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles

3. Bedding/free-floating. The main concern I have here is a little play forwards to backwards. I figure shimming the wood stock where the rear of the receiver touches the rear of the stock should solve this. You guys think more bedding or free floating is worth it?

4. Muzzle crown touch-up. There's one wee little dent on the crown, so I figure I may as well do the old round brass screw + valve compound trick. If that doesn't work, a buddy has a lathe at work that might fit the barrel.

Dan.
 
1) Where are you gonna mount that scope? Realistically, Choate's your only option - solid to receiver

2) Do a full trigger job to take away the creep and make it smooth before doing the springs
 
Yeah, go slow and change one thing at a time. I say mount your scope, test, trigger work, test, different types of ammo, test, crown, test, bed, test. Then HANDLOAD.

And we'll all appreciate hearing about how it goes!
 
IMO put Tech Sights on the SKS and buy a bolt action .308 or .223.

You may be able to squeak a little more out of it with a trigger and bedding job, and I wouldn't even consider putting a scope on it unless it's a PSO style that mounts directly on to the receiver, but keep in mind that an off the shelf Savage Axis ($350 + scope) will out shoot even the most accurate SKS by a large margin.
 
HOWEVER, nobody has posted pics of their rifle's groups at 100 yards!
I wonder why that is?

You may be able to squeak a little more out of it with a trigger and bedding job....... but keep in mind that an off the shelf Savage Axis ($350 + scope) will out shoot even the most accurate SKS by a large margin.
Would agree 100%!
With all you intend to do, time and money will only gain a small amount for your efforts. I've built custom 7.62x39 bolt actions and if you're seriously looking for accuracy, the bolt action is where to start. An SKS is still an SKS no matter what you do with it, it's still an SKS. I love it for what it is, simple, reliable and a fun plinker.
 
I started an sks accuracy project which I have yet to take out to the range.

Started with a new Chinese military sks from Marstar, put a choate scope mount, weaver double strap rings, bushnell trophy 3-9 scope, removed front sight block with bayonet, stripped rear site off, and did a trigger job.

I intend on shooting off a bench with a bag at the rear, and hornady ammo (as I don't reload) to really see what it's capable of. Fortunately I don't have the best expectations. If I can do 4 inch groups I'll be pleased. If I can do 3 inch groups I'll be amazed.

If nothing else, it looks really really good!
 
I bought a SKS as my first rifle about 3-4 weeks ago. Ive had it out 4 times now and about 400 rounds through it. The first time out i could not touch the 100 yard gong, this past Sunday i hit 4/5 or 5/5 every time i tried from a rest and no worse than 3/5 off-hand. I did do a small elevation adjustment on the front sight, and leave the rear leaf at the 'n' setting. Its fun gun to shoot.

Meant to add that i was averaging 6" groups on Sunday at 100 with irons, and am very interested in how you project turns out.
 
Thanks for all the responses and links! I will keep you posted on my project. Probably a little more work this weekend and some results too if I make it out shooting. Anyone know if SKSMAN is still around? I called a few times and no answer.
 
I have a Choate mount on my SKS. They are great. Can still use the iron sights. Be careful in the drill & tap, to leave yourself enough room to remove the bolt carrier & bolt from under the mount. Its a tight fit.

I do disagree that scope will make the SKS much more accurate though. It helps with aim, so to that end it helps with accuracy. Accuracy is relative, but I think any SKS is going to be relatively inaccurate compared to most rifles.
 
First brand new Chinese SKS that came through the shop was bedded in a manner very similar to the system used for M-1/M-14 rifles, to take out the slack. Made a significant difference.
 
I'm new here and new to SKS's, but I've been enjoying reading the forum for months. Most of you guys definitely have WAY more experience than I do, so I'd really like your advice on my next project: accurizing my SKS.

I recently got an SKS and want to see its full accuracy realized. So I went out shooting with my Ukrainian buddy who learned to shoot with an SKS in grade 5. With iron sights at 100 yards, he's hitting a gallon oil bottle (6" target) 5 out of 5 times. He tells me in his Ukrainian accent, "Dan, you can't unlearn something you learned in grade 5; it's like riding a bike."

Ok well, not too impressive that's at worst 6 MOA (although I suspect better because he was hitting clays at that distance too), and probably the limit of his vision. What would YOU do?

1. Scope. First step to really see its baseline accuracy, I need to install a scope. Luckily there's a thread here with lots of purdy pictures:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?439418-SKS-Optics-sights-amp-mounts-update-feb-16-2010

HOWEVER, nobody has posted pics of their rifle's groups at 100 yards! I'm curious just what kind of groups are you guys shooting? Looks like the Choate scope mount is the first choice for accuracy, but I can't see going wrong with the Leapers UTG MNT-640 5th gen and tapping the bottom two bolts right into the receiver.

2. Trigger. I found a useful post here for a trigger job. My trigger is at 6.20 lbs right now, which appears decent for an SKS, but I'll probably drop that to ~4.0lbs. Do you think this is that necessary as long as I'm practicing dry fires anyway?

Scroll down for trigger job by Satain:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?603359-Helpful-hints-to-DIY-for-Red-Rifles

3. Bedding/free-floating. The main concern I have here is a little play forwards to backwards. I figure shimming the wood stock where the rear of the receiver touches the rear of the stock should solve this. You guys think more bedding or free floating is worth it?

4. Muzzle crown touch-up. There's one wee little dent on the crown, so I figure I may as well do the old round brass screw + valve compound trick. If that doesn't work, a buddy has a lathe at work that might fit the barrel.

Dan.
1) Yep get the chotate mount that bj always talks about. Cheap and easy to install. Then get a descent optic.
2) That trigger job works great.
3) I bed 3 areas on my SkS. 1 at the front were that metal lip rests. 2. the area around the front reciever pin that goes threw the stock. 3. The rear area were the reciver rests on the stock.
4) The crown is the single most important thing that can screw up ones accuracy. If it's mared up and dinged to the high heavens better get it cleaned up properly.
 
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