Action screw bedding botched (update)
- Thread starter Keithjohn
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Assuming that you used some sort of epoxy, I think I would first try heat - maybe something like an electric soldering iron on the screw head - something to warm up/heat up just the screw so the surrounding epoxy can let go - am thinking you'd need 300 degrees F or more ... If that didn't work, I would try overnight in a freezer - maybe the metal will shrink a tiny bit more than the epoxy and therefore let go. I have stuck actions into stocks and got them to release by above methods, but never had a screw stuck - would be real interested in how this works out for you.
Agreed- heat is probably the only option. The tricky bit will be to get enough heat to the far end to soften the epoxy (since you can't remove the stock now!) without burning the wood, and it will take some time to get the heat to where it needs to be given that the rest of the receiver will be an excellent heat sink.
Obviously you put more than oil on the screws. If it is epoxy that is holding your stuck screw you will need to hold the stock in a padded vise. You will need two screwdrivers, both ground to fit the screw tightly and fully. Heat the one screwdriver tip red hot for about an inch and place it in the screw head firmly and hold it there for a minute... then heat it red hot again and hold it firmly in the screw head for another minute... then try the other screwdriver with two hands and see if the screw moves... if it doesn't go back to the other driver and repeat the heating procedure until the screw breaks loose.
In the future use a release agent (paste wax). Oil is not a release agent for epoxy.
P.S.
If you can't get the action out after removing the screws, place a hot iron (350-400 degrees) on the scope bases for about 20 minutes and try...
P.P.S.
Patience, this will work...
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if you have a synthetic stock I am going to say your best to hope the bedding job is solid and perfect, now put the scope on it and go shoot it because chances are your going to induce enough heat to melt the stock before that screw breaks fee
I guess if one was frustrated 'nuff and had a bit oh dare in his blood,
well one could perfectly center punch the head of said screw and proceed to
drill the kritter out.
Butt yah need a good steady hand and an evil eye.
well one could perfectly center punch the head of said screw and proceed to
drill the kritter out.
Butt yah need a good steady hand and an evil eye.
Drill/mill off the screw head and pop the action with intact screw out of the stock. If it won't move, then drill/mill the screw body close to the receiver but not all the way there. You will need to leave at least a half cm of the screw so that you can grip it with an appropriate tool for removal after the stock is free of the receiver. Then of course either get a new receiver screw made up or purchase another screw online from one of the major suppliers.
I have done a couple of these done by folks that were cutting corners and not following instructions over the last six months. The heat application mentioned is what I tried first and quite honestly it is the first thing you should try. My option is if it doesn't work.
The other option of just leaving the rifle as is and using it is also very viable. Many bench rest shooters back in the day often "glued" their receivers and even barrels into the stocks permanently. That was back in the day of wood stocks though.
I have done a couple of these done by folks that were cutting corners and not following instructions over the last six months. The heat application mentioned is what I tried first and quite honestly it is the first thing you should try. My option is if it doesn't work.
The other option of just leaving the rifle as is and using it is also very viable. Many bench rest shooters back in the day often "glued" their receivers and even barrels into the stocks permanently. That was back in the day of wood stocks though.
The epoxy will just rebound with the impact. I have never been able to get that to work well, even with heat. Not only that but depending on the quality of the screws it's a good way to break off one side of the head.
When I had to remove a glued-in screw, I always used a piece of 3/8" brass which I held against the head of the screw while I heated the brass punch with a propane torch (I held the punch with pliers!). As Guntech said, heat will always work. By using the punch (or a screwdriver) to transfer the heat, one can be sure to get the heat where it is wanted (the screw) and not where it is not wanted (the stock).
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Shoot it a bit then try. 
Seriously what I have used to remove seized or frozen screws is placing the appropriated sized screw driver bit in the screw, the 1/4 size from the kits everybody has.
Give that bastard a few good hits with a hammer, I use this to remove base/mount screws from actions and they are way more delicate.
You can heat that bit also as it sits in the screw but I didn't ever have to go that route.
Seriously what I have used to remove seized or frozen screws is placing the appropriated sized screw driver bit in the screw, the 1/4 size from the kits everybody has.
Give that bastard a few good hits with a hammer, I use this to remove base/mount screws from actions and they are way more delicate.
You can heat that bit also as it sits in the screw but I didn't ever have to go that route.
Wise man.
Well I finally tried heating up a screwdriver with a torch as suggested. All the stress and apprehension this caused me ( about 5 years) was gone in about 1/2 hr . 15 min getting the screw out and 15 fretting about and then buffing threads on bolt . I thought it looked stripped but must have been epoxy and my eyes because it cleaned up great and installed easily. So thanks gun tech and others
I was just thinking of the same thing. The heat transfer of brass or copper would likely be better than any other method.
Lol, I've done a few since my first efforts , it's been mostly good , I now do it with electric tape and q tips for the holes and lots of wax and shoe polish . Figure an extra 3 coats release agent doesn't hurt .
That voere always shot good it just bothered me that I knew it was glued together
